Chassis refurb... who, what and how much?
Discussion
Morning all !
Following my previous thread ( http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=430... ), I am still looking for the right one and doing my homework. My only concern being that I have yet to see a good chassis, one that’s in good condition and, to be honest I am starting to despair.
Two explanations: either I am being too demanding and surface rust is acceptable and I just get on with it or, and it seems the most likely, I postpone my purchase and put enough cash aside for a full body off respray / chassis refurb…and a good one at that (see this thread in the Cerbera forum, “Peppe”’s post: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... ).
Therefore here’s my question: can you give me your experience good or bad regarding the above mentioned operation? What’s a good address to have it done at (around the Midlands ideally but I am willing to travel for such a job)? And how much am I looking at in the worst case scenario (i.e. replacement of a few tubes, seized bolts etc…
?
(PS: I won't be undertaking the project myself, not mechanically minded / courageous enough)
Thanks for your help.
Following my previous thread ( http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=430... ), I am still looking for the right one and doing my homework. My only concern being that I have yet to see a good chassis, one that’s in good condition and, to be honest I am starting to despair.
Two explanations: either I am being too demanding and surface rust is acceptable and I just get on with it or, and it seems the most likely, I postpone my purchase and put enough cash aside for a full body off respray / chassis refurb…and a good one at that (see this thread in the Cerbera forum, “Peppe”’s post: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... ).
Therefore here’s my question: can you give me your experience good or bad regarding the above mentioned operation? What’s a good address to have it done at (around the Midlands ideally but I am willing to travel for such a job)? And how much am I looking at in the worst case scenario (i.e. replacement of a few tubes, seized bolts etc…
?(PS: I won't be undertaking the project myself, not mechanically minded / courageous enough)
Thanks for your help.
Morning,
I think you might be being a bit paranoid about the state of the chassis. As long as there aren't great chunks of oxidised metal coming away from the chasis and outriggers then it should be sound enough, some surface rust is bound to be present and even a bit of mild flaking is OK.
Look for cars that have been cosseted and waxoyld on a reasonably regular basis if you want to ultra careful but there are plenty of decent ones out there for the money you're looking at.
I think you might be being a bit paranoid about the state of the chassis. As long as there aren't great chunks of oxidised metal coming away from the chasis and outriggers then it should be sound enough, some surface rust is bound to be present and even a bit of mild flaking is OK.
Look for cars that have been cosseted and waxoyld on a reasonably regular basis if you want to ultra careful but there are plenty of decent ones out there for the money you're looking at.
FossilFuelled said:
so are we saying that no holes is good / acceptable then ?
I'm no expert, but I'd say yes.I looked at more than a dozen before I took the plunge, and I had the same misgivings as you initially. I was shocked how 'rusty' most of the chassis were, but over time I came to appreciate it is typically just surface rust and nothing to worry about so long as it's caught in time. If you can find one with the powder coating still intact, that's probably a good thing, but even if there appears to be surface rust, if you can't prod a screwdriver through it it's probably ok. Like I said though - I'm no expert.
If you're really not confident, there are several well known 'agents' that will source/inspect cars for you, but I've heard varying reports from glowing to 'not-so glowing' - YMMV.
happy to go via dealer if it gives some warranty and they don't seem that much overpriced compared to private ones.
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/159957.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/236235.htm
Thanks anyway for all the reassurance. Looking forward to join the club.
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/159957.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/236235.htm
Thanks anyway for all the reassurance. Looking forward to join the club.
Rust free ones are out there. My Griff had (now treated) a little surface rust on the rear wishbones and seatbelt mounting point but other than that has none. All the powder coating on the main chassis is intact even on the outriggers. The top wishbone mounting points also needed a little treatment but that was it.
I have painted the main areas that are vunerable with POR15 for some added protection and clear waxoyled the lot.
I have painted the main areas that are vunerable with POR15 for some added protection and clear waxoyled the lot.
I had a body off at James Motorsport - Molash, near Canterbury. Great Job
From under the car I could only make out 2 small areas of rot but when the body came off all 4 corners were rotten. Most alarming were the seatbelt mounting plates. They looked good with the body on but once it was off & they were cleaned they virtually disintegrated. Chris replaced them with beefier versions.
I've sold the Griff now (Hope you're enjoying her Steve) but if I ever return to the fold in the future I would be extremely wary of any chassis that hasn't been repaired. It's only once the body is off that you can see all of the rot. My guess is that many, many of the cars out there that look Ok have some rot on the outriggers.
Cheers
Simon
From under the car I could only make out 2 small areas of rot but when the body came off all 4 corners were rotten. Most alarming were the seatbelt mounting plates. They looked good with the body on but once it was off & they were cleaned they virtually disintegrated. Chris replaced them with beefier versions.
I've sold the Griff now (Hope you're enjoying her Steve) but if I ever return to the fold in the future I would be extremely wary of any chassis that hasn't been repaired. It's only once the body is off that you can see all of the rot. My guess is that many, many of the cars out there that look Ok have some rot on the outriggers.
Cheers
Simon
If you think it looks ropey from the bottom then you would be shocked at the top!!!!! I have done a body off and seen a fair few griff and chim cerb undersides which look ok just a bit flakey but are rotten on top of the out riggers and above the diff or under manifolds. however my griff which i did a body off resto on was totaly lagged in black sticky under seal which i assumed was hiding a thousand sins, It however was as mint as you would expect to find a six month old car not 10 year!
The only way to tell is to find a car that has been restored or use a very good indi who can get the car on a ramp and give the car a full inspection spending more time looking for rot than anything else. otherwise get a cheap flat head screwdriver and bend 90o 2" from the end which will enable you to get to the top of the outrigger and lever against the floor do this along both sides.
Just go in with your eyes open and remember a 1 owner car with wax oil bills for the last 10 years and a chassis that looks like it been dipped in sticky toffee might not be a bad car, you just won't beable to see it.
Mark
The only way to tell is to find a car that has been restored or use a very good indi who can get the car on a ramp and give the car a full inspection spending more time looking for rot than anything else. otherwise get a cheap flat head screwdriver and bend 90o 2" from the end which will enable you to get to the top of the outrigger and lever against the floor do this along both sides.
Just go in with your eyes open and remember a 1 owner car with wax oil bills for the last 10 years and a chassis that looks like it been dipped in sticky toffee might not be a bad car, you just won't beable to see it.
Mark
You would need to allow for five and a half grand for a full chassis refurb. This price includes dipping in acid twice before welding in new tubes and after,hot zinc coating and then powder coating, new suspension,fuel lines,brake lines,poly bushes,nuts and bolts. Nowing what i know now,if i were buying a TVR i would make sure this has already been done. Or buy one cheap enough and do it yourself. But be warned these cars will eat your cash
Which you forget all about when you drive it. 
Happy Hunting.
Which you forget all about when you drive it. Happy Hunting.roy e6 said:
You would need to allow for five and a half grand for a full chassis refurb. This price includes dipping in acid twice before welding in new tubes and after,hot zinc coating and then powder coating, new suspension,fuel lines,brake lines,poly bushes,nuts and bolts. Nowing what i know now,if i were buying a TVR i would make sure this has already been done. Or buy one cheap enough and do it yourself. But be warned these cars will eat your cash Which you forget all about when you drive it. Happy Hunting.
Roy, is that £5.5K a "drive in, drive out" price, i.e. including removing & replacing the body? Which you forget all about when you drive it. Happy Hunting.Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff