Engine Cutting Out
Discussion
Just been out for a run to test the new sat nav (that's my excuse).
After about 15 miles the engine just died as if there was a complete loss of electrics. Managed to pull in to the side of the road and get it started but only after pressing the key fob button.
3 or 4 miles further down the road same thing, engine just dies. This time started whilst coasting but again only after pressing the key fob button.
I did not notice if the immobiliser LED was lit at the time.
After that drove another 30 odd miles without problem.
Both times the engine restarted immediately once I had pressed the key fob.
Nothing else seems amiss, enigine temp and oil pressure normal, only driving steadily as there was a bit of traffic. Car is a 98 Chimaera 500
First guess is that somehow the immobiliser is kicking in.
As I remember the car did this to me some time ago but I had not had it long then and just put it down to me.
Any Ideas how to check this???
After about 15 miles the engine just died as if there was a complete loss of electrics. Managed to pull in to the side of the road and get it started but only after pressing the key fob button.
3 or 4 miles further down the road same thing, engine just dies. This time started whilst coasting but again only after pressing the key fob button.
I did not notice if the immobiliser LED was lit at the time.
After that drove another 30 odd miles without problem.
Both times the engine restarted immediately once I had pressed the key fob.
Nothing else seems amiss, enigine temp and oil pressure normal, only driving steadily as there was a bit of traffic. Car is a 98 Chimaera 500
First guess is that somehow the immobiliser is kicking in.
As I remember the car did this to me some time ago but I had not had it long then and just put it down to me.
Any Ideas how to check this???
If it happens again see what the rev counter does. If it freezes or instantly drops to zero you probably have an ignition problem, and the first suspect would be the multiway connector between the ignition switch and the main loom. (This would also take out the other instruments, indicators etc.)
If it isn't that then the fuel pump relay would be the next suspect. One very common failure mode is for the relay to work OK when it's cold and then start breaking down after 20 minutes or so when it has got hot. If this is the problem then the fuel pump will cut out and the engine will immediately lose power and die. Since you can't usually hear the fuel pump when the engine is running this can be hard to diagnose. The good news is that in bad cases the problem will continue for several minutes while the relay cools down so if you try to restart and don't hear the fuel pump prime that points towards an electrical problem. (An ignition problem will also stop the pump running but you can rule that out by the tacho behaviour.)
If it isn't that then the fuel pump relay would be the next suspect. One very common failure mode is for the relay to work OK when it's cold and then start breaking down after 20 minutes or so when it has got hot. If this is the problem then the fuel pump will cut out and the engine will immediately lose power and die. Since you can't usually hear the fuel pump when the engine is running this can be hard to diagnose. The good news is that in bad cases the problem will continue for several minutes while the relay cools down so if you try to restart and don't hear the fuel pump prime that points towards an electrical problem. (An ignition problem will also stop the pump running but you can rule that out by the tacho behaviour.)
Rev counter dropped immediately to zero when it died. I don't know if I lost indicators and other instruments.
I had been out for about 20 minutes but I think I can rule out the fuel pump relay as the car started immediately.
Is the multiway connector near the ignition switch or in the dash?
Now here is an interesting thing. When I got back from the cutting out run I put the car in the garage and left the key in the ignition. Just went back out to the car and the doors are locked.
Fortunately I had been out with the roof off so getting in was not a problem. Question is, are we coming back to my initial thoughts about an immobiliser/alarm problem.
I had been out for about 20 minutes but I think I can rule out the fuel pump relay as the car started immediately.
Is the multiway connector near the ignition switch or in the dash?
Now here is an interesting thing. When I got back from the cutting out run I put the car in the garage and left the key in the ignition. Just went back out to the car and the doors are locked.
Fortunately I had been out with the roof off so getting in was not a problem. Question is, are we coming back to my initial thoughts about an immobiliser/alarm problem.
Edited by BrianMillar on Saturday 22 September 18:08
Would be interested to hear if you find anything. I posted up that I had a similar problem a week ago where engine died after running for about 20 mins.
1 week and 200 miles later and it has not done it again since though... hope it is just the relays so may get them changed when it goes in for service in a few weeks as a precaution.
Yours locking the doors sounds a bit more concerning though so please let me know if you find anything.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
1 week and 200 miles later and it has not done it again since though... hope it is just the relays so may get them changed when it goes in for service in a few weeks as a precaution.
Yours locking the doors sounds a bit more concerning though so please let me know if you find anything.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Edited by Timja on Sunday 23 September 14:38
OK the latest update.
I checked the multi connector on the ignition switch could not find any problem with that. However I did notice a high resistance on the switch between +ve and running position contact. So I took the switch apart and cleaned it and applied some silicon grease.
As a matter of interest I have discovered why the Chimaera does not have a connector on the switch that provides power in the AUX position. I made a small modification to the switch and now mine has a fully working auxiliary position. Just have to get at the back of the radio to connect the additional feed. I will write it up and post the photo's later.
After that I cleaned the plug leads, distributor and coil just in case, but they were pretty clean anyway.
Then off for a test drive.
15 minutes out engine dies again. This time I was on a quiet bit of road and had time to look at what was happening before touching anything.
I was doing about 60 so I just let the car run in gear as I looked around the dash.
The tacho dropped immediately to zero.
Still had power to all other instruments.
The immobiliser LED on the steering column was flashing.
I pushed the button on the key fob the immobiliser went out and the engine sprang back into life again.
All back to normal.
The whole process from the engine cutting out to it firing up again was less than 5 seconds.
I drove for another 40 minutes without any problem.
The only thing I touched was the key fob button, so I am virtually convinced that I have an immobiliser problem. It would have to be a very big coincidence for the engine just to restart immediately after pressing the button for any other reason than the immobiliser.
I think next step will be to give Carl Baker a call and see if he has heard of this before.
The car is also due in for a service tomorrow so I will see if the garage knows anything about this. So the fault finding will have to stop for the next couple of days until I get the car back.
The only worrying thing is that this problem is going to kill the engine just at the critical overtaking moment leaving me a bit exposed at the wrong side of the road somewhere. Still it's all part of the joys of motoring.
I checked the multi connector on the ignition switch could not find any problem with that. However I did notice a high resistance on the switch between +ve and running position contact. So I took the switch apart and cleaned it and applied some silicon grease.
As a matter of interest I have discovered why the Chimaera does not have a connector on the switch that provides power in the AUX position. I made a small modification to the switch and now mine has a fully working auxiliary position. Just have to get at the back of the radio to connect the additional feed. I will write it up and post the photo's later.
After that I cleaned the plug leads, distributor and coil just in case, but they were pretty clean anyway.
Then off for a test drive.
15 minutes out engine dies again. This time I was on a quiet bit of road and had time to look at what was happening before touching anything.
I was doing about 60 so I just let the car run in gear as I looked around the dash.
The tacho dropped immediately to zero.
Still had power to all other instruments.
The immobiliser LED on the steering column was flashing.
I pushed the button on the key fob the immobiliser went out and the engine sprang back into life again.
All back to normal.
The whole process from the engine cutting out to it firing up again was less than 5 seconds.
I drove for another 40 minutes without any problem.
The only thing I touched was the key fob button, so I am virtually convinced that I have an immobiliser problem. It would have to be a very big coincidence for the engine just to restart immediately after pressing the button for any other reason than the immobiliser.
I think next step will be to give Carl Baker a call and see if he has heard of this before.
The car is also due in for a service tomorrow so I will see if the garage knows anything about this. So the fault finding will have to stop for the next couple of days until I get the car back.
The only worrying thing is that this problem is going to kill the engine just at the critical overtaking moment leaving me a bit exposed at the wrong side of the road somewhere. Still it's all part of the joys of motoring.
Just to close this one out.
Yesterday morning I took the car out after checking lots of connectors on the wiring loom. The car cut out on me three times and I only did about 5 miles.
I then removed and replaced the relay that is described as the "fan and ignition control" and removed and replaced the ignition fuse with a spare fuse (although there is nothing wrong with the old fuse).
After that I took the car on a 900 mile round trip from Aberdeenshire to Yorkshire and back the engine ran perfectly. Not a single cough or splutter.
I haven't a clue what caused or cured the problem it's just another TVR mystery. I cannot say thet the relay or the fuse was the cause of the problem maybe whilst doing the swap I have moved a cable and accidentally resolved the problem.
I will just have to wait and see if it re-occurs.
By the way the trip was great. Roof off half the way there and all the way back. Still grinning!
Yesterday morning I took the car out after checking lots of connectors on the wiring loom. The car cut out on me three times and I only did about 5 miles.
I then removed and replaced the relay that is described as the "fan and ignition control" and removed and replaced the ignition fuse with a spare fuse (although there is nothing wrong with the old fuse).
After that I took the car on a 900 mile round trip from Aberdeenshire to Yorkshire and back the engine ran perfectly. Not a single cough or splutter.
I haven't a clue what caused or cured the problem it's just another TVR mystery. I cannot say thet the relay or the fuse was the cause of the problem maybe whilst doing the swap I have moved a cable and accidentally resolved the problem.
I will just have to wait and see if it re-occurs.
By the way the trip was great. Roof off half the way there and all the way back. Still grinning!
BrianMillar said:
I then removed and replaced the relay that is described as the "fan and ignition control" and removed and replaced the ignition fuse with a spare fuse (although there is nothing wrong with the old fuse).
I do hope this is the problem with mine, I have been "rebooting" mine by turning the alarm on and off again for more than a year! It always seemed worse in the summer so it seemed like something getting hot. I replaced the fuel pump relays first to no avail. I have always thought it was to do with the alarm, although the immobilizer has been disabled as the previous owner had a stupid fob press type immobilizer fitted so I can drive with the red dashboard light on!Maybe it has just been a coincidence so I am going to change the "fan and ignition control" relay and hope for the best!
Kindest regards, Robin
The random sudden total loss of electrics sounds rather like the symptoms I had from my immobiliser due to 
wit installer connecting the main ignition and starter feeds by just twisting the wires together and taping over the joint, and connecting the control box earth to a bit of metal that wasn't earthed.
wit installer connecting the main ignition and starter feeds by just twisting the wires together and taping over the joint, and connecting the control box earth to a bit of metal that wasn't earthed. 
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