Ignition staying on!!

[pjac67]

Contrary to the 'my car won't start' threads, my car won't stop!
When ignition turned off and key removed the car keeps running. If I stop it (by stalling) the ignition light stays on (as do the fans if above temp.) - the Bible does not seem to have any pointers - any suggestions as to the cause/rectification please?
Many thanks in advance. Paul.

[V8 GRF]

A short in the ignition switch/barrel?

[pjac67]

V8 GRF said:

A short in the ignition switch/barrel?

Thanks for the prompt reply - can this be diagnosed by a non-electrician?

[LordGrover]

I've seen this somewhere before, can't find it at the moment, closest is here, but no solution posted. Maybe it was on TVRCC forums?

[GreenV8S]

A failed rectifier in the alternator can leave the ignition warning light on, but won't run the engine*. For that I think you need a fault in the ignition switch or loom. It's possible that you've encountered the ignition switch multiway connector problem and this has overheated so severely that the insulation has melted and allowed a short. This would be easy to check for visually if you remove the lower cover from the steering column.

(*) won't normally, since it's connected via a low power bulb that restricts the current to a tiny value. If you have an LED in place of the bulb, it may be that the bypass for the LED allows enough reverse current to run the engine. It doesn't see likely but I couldn't say for sure without knowing more about the circuit.

Edited by GreenV8S on Monday 24th September 15:17

[spend]

LordGrover said:

I've seen this somewhere before, can't find it at the moment, closest is here, but no solution posted. Maybe it was on TVRCC forums?

I think there was a similar problem due to a faulty main 70a relay in the fusebox, which maybe the one you are referring to.

Dave

[BrianMillar]

To test the ignition switch, assuming the Griff Ignition switch is the same as the Chimaera.

When you remove the black multiway connector you should have 5 connectors numbered

30 - Live feed
15 - Ignition/running circuits
15a - Auxiliary circuits
50 - Start
P - For some reason this has power on it in the OFF position.

You should only have a connection between 30 and 15 when the switch is in the run or start position.
If you have a circuit tester this is a simple job to do.

[spend]

Its actually much easier to test by pulling the relay and testing from the front of the fusebox first (the ignition switch triggers the ignition relay to power the bus etc. within the fusebox).

Dave

[pjac67]

Thanks for all the replies - no burn/melt marks around the ignition but when I looked behind the fuse panel their is a 'DIY' connection between 2 relays(?) at the back of the fuse board - when I wiggled this it sounded as though the fuel pump was priming and my ignition lights went off! - Sadly can't do muich more as the battery is flat
Will see if trickle charge restores it before proceeding further...

[olemisery]

Mine was also done to a diy joint on ignition wires at back of fuse box , someone had cut an ignition wire and joined it to another ?????? car had worked perfectly in this state and out of the blue the ignition stayed on , put the wires back as wiring diagram and no more probs . Although this probably won`t help you much i have at least `finished the story' even if in wrong post . good luck

[lazyitus]

pjac67 said:

Contrary to the 'my car won't start' threads, my car won't stop!

sorry - couldn't resist. Cracking opening line !

[Elwood]

I had this with a customers car recently, some time in the past a garage had got a faulty circuit working again by linking it to another circuit, however a few weeks later the original fault cured itself providing a permanent supply to the ignition

[GreenV8S]

Elwood said:

I had this with a customers car recently, some time in the past a garage had got a faulty circuit working again by linking it to another circuit, however a few weeks later the original fault cured itself providing a permanent supply to the ignition

If you've had a failure in a relay switched circuit then you can bypass the relay. If the relay circuit then starts working again, the bypass may end up back-feeding the relay so it latches on.

[ruaricoles]

My car had previously been modified in the fuse box with a second relay and fuse for the cooling fans to avoid the 40A fuse blowing issue; the added relay was faulty allowing a permanent live to leak back into the ignition circuit and would (intermittently) leave the ignition on even when the key was removed. There seems to be a recurring theme here - check your relays! Good luck with it, anyway....

Ruari