1997 wrx inprezza bhp?
Discussion
A 1997 WRX is meant to have 240bhp (STi had 280 and the later WRXs also had 280)
However this is on 100ron fuel. It will probably be about 220-230bhp if you had it on the dyno. Exhaust and panel filter should give you another 10bhp. Best to keep the CAT (it only has one)for MOT time.
Mark
However this is on 100ron fuel. It will probably be about 220-230bhp if you had it on the dyno. Exhaust and panel filter should give you another 10bhp. Best to keep the CAT (it only has one)for MOT time.
Mark
Hey guys, new here, just joined up. ive got 2 imports (for sale), a 92 wrx and a 98 sti (wot a cracking car). 1st thing i found out on the 92 (not driven the sti yet) is the brakes... its got a 2 pot caliper n ur right-it goes like stink but does'nt stop without going down through the gears to help it lol. m8 of mine has a 99 AWD (uk)n its a 4 pot caliper n he says its crap on brakes to, so i think we'r talking pro drive job for decent brakes. Very strange they make a very quick car but nothing to stop it with lol.
keith
keith
Well you don't use the brakes that much on gravel anyway 
P.S. The mods generally frown upon people advertising cars for sale in the forums, better to list them in the classifieds part of the site. It wasn't the main point of your post so not such a big deal to be fair, just letting you know though.
Edited by GravelBen on Friday 5th October 12:31
markCSC said:
A 1997 WRX is meant to have 240bhp (STi had 280 and the later WRXs also had 280)
However this is on 100ron fuel. It will probably be about 220-230bhp if you had it on the dyno. Exhaust and panel filter should give you another 10bhp. Best to keep the CAT (it only has one)for MOT time.
Mark
According to the stats on www.english.auto.vl.ru/catalog (which has been accurate for everything else I've found) the JDM WRX started at 240 bhp, was upgraded to 260 in 1994 and then to 280 in sept 1996, so the OP's 1997 should be 280 if its an import. Fair point re 100ron though, it will probably give more like 260-270 than 280 unless its been remapped for UK fuel and/or had filter/exhaust upgraded.However this is on 100ron fuel. It will probably be about 220-230bhp if you had it on the dyno. Exhaust and panel filter should give you another 10bhp. Best to keep the CAT (it only has one)for MOT time.
Mark
P.S. While the official output (under the 'honourable manufacturers agreement') for STi's was 280 its fairly common for them to put out more than that, I've heard plenty of stories about late 90's STi (especially RA's) dynoing at more like 300-320. Obviously dyno claims always taken with a pinch of salt but STi cars are noticeably quicker than a WRX with allegedly the same power.
welshgoose said:
Hey guys, new here, just joined up. ive got 2 imports (for sale), a 92 wrx and a 98 sti (wot a cracking car). 1st thing i found out on the 92 (not driven the sti yet) is the brakes... its got a 2 pot caliper n ur right-it goes like stink but does'nt stop without going down through the gears to help it lol. m8 of mine has a 99 AWD (uk)n its a 4 pot caliper n he says its crap on brakes to, so i think we'r talking pro drive job for decent brakes. Very strange they make a very quick car but nothing to stop it with lol.
keith
Sounds like the brakes have had nowt done to them in 10 years then.keith
FWIW my 97 came with 2 pots and they were able to stop hard enough to kick in the ABS in the dry.
Bigger brakes wouldn't give you any more retardation than that as you've reached the limit of the tyres' grip.
Prone to fade on track mind...

I agree about the std OEM brakes so long as you don't use them too often on the same stint 
I upgraded all mine (WRX2002Wagon) and the difference was pretty huge!! I use EBC grooved and dimpled rotors all round, RedStuff pads on the rears and YellowStuff on the fronts. I think that's fine for cars up to 300 or so bhp. Any more than that and i would seriously concider 6pots front, 4pots rear.
In any case, for a std car the thing that makes the most difference to your brakes are the pads. Try YellowStuff pads all round with the standard OEM rotors and feel the difference straight away. It's also the cheapest way to upgrade your brakes and i would use Goodridge Stainless Steel braided brake hoses as a matter of course. YelloStuff pads however are superb. They are actually not bad when cold but the more you abuse them, the hotter they get and the better they get, and the quicker your rotors wear down

I upgraded all mine (WRX2002Wagon) and the difference was pretty huge!! I use EBC grooved and dimpled rotors all round, RedStuff pads on the rears and YellowStuff on the fronts. I think that's fine for cars up to 300 or so bhp. Any more than that and i would seriously concider 6pots front, 4pots rear.
In any case, for a std car the thing that makes the most difference to your brakes are the pads. Try YellowStuff pads all round with the standard OEM rotors and feel the difference straight away. It's also the cheapest way to upgrade your brakes and i would use Goodridge Stainless Steel braided brake hoses as a matter of course. YelloStuff pads however are superb. They are actually not bad when cold but the more you abuse them, the hotter they get and the better they get, and the quicker your rotors wear down

Edited by ScoobieWRX on Saturday 6th October 22:33
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