Brakes please help

[Green Meanie]

I have owned my Griff for 5 years now its been fantastic,but 2 years ago after a fairly long run on the Motorway at quite fast speeds I was coming off the Motorway down the sliproad and when I applied the brakes the pedal went further down than normal and braking efficiency was Greatly reduced so much so that I was pressing the pedal as had as I possibly could and almost didnt stop at the end of the sliproad very scary.I drove home slowly and checked the brake fluid level which was fine.I took it to the dealers and the said they checked the system everything was fine but I had some air in the system which they bled.The brakes have been perfect for the last 2 years until last night,again after a longish Motorway run coming off down the sliproad the pedal went down further than usual and I had next to no brakes,I have checked the fluid level and its fine.
Does anyone have any Ideas as to what can be causing this problem as my underwear has taken a battering once again, the brakes are still the same this morning,long pedal movement and almost no brakes

HELP

[tbdgriff500]

the standard brakes are good on griffs under normal to fast road driving,but having had the same problem as you a few years ago i went for a complete brake upgrade,never looked back, they are far superior no fade at all even on heavy track days & awsome stopping power.not cheap mind you but you get what you pay for.
ap 4 pot callipers, 305mm drilled/vented discs,braided steel hoses,racing brake fluid(boils at much higher temp.),fast road pads.bloody brilliant.
as soon as i bought my latest griff i had the brakes upgraded.go for it!

[Barreti]

I recently upgraded the front brakes on my 4.3 pre-cat to a set from a 500 - an upgrade from 240mm to 280mm rotors and the calipers are bigger too.
Admittedly the rotors are grooved and dimpled and the pads are Red Stuff so they aren't quite original spec.

I also changed the flexible brake lines for stainless braided versions and replaced the fluid with DOT 5.1

So sort of 500 spec but with a few sensible and not very expensive upgrades.

I did all this because my brakes used to scare the hell out of me sometimes. I crested a hill once at about 70mph to find two lines of traffic and a 4x4 on its side about 200yds ahead and as I was braking as hard as I dare I was looking for a bail out place.
But after the upgrade I did a track day and the brakes are phenomenal and more than good enough for road use. I can even lock up the front brakes now if I really stand on them which I could never do before.

That should give you a bit of food for thought Green Meanie, but if I was looking at brake issues this would be my list:

• Check the pads aren't glazed - and replace them if you're not sure. Cheap and simple.
• Check the calipers are working OK. You can do this when you check the pads. Actually, when I think of it this could be the cause of your problem because if they are binding they will overheat on a long motorway run and be useless when you need them.
• Replace the brake fluid - use 5.1 if you want to. It should be changed every couple of years at least so if you've not done this do it as a matter of course anyway.
• Upgrade the front rotors and pads

[Green Meanie]

Thanks tbdgriff500 my griff also has billet 4 pot calipers and stainless brake lines drilled and vented discs and green stuff pads.Any other ideas?

Thanks

[spend]

I'd just replace the fluid & check for leaks. Sounds like old contaminated fluid to me, supposed to be replaced every few years but may have been skimped. Also make sure you don't have a brake binding causing excess heat on the Motorway

Dave

[Johno]

Green Meanie said:

Thanks tbdgriff500 my griff also has billet 4 pot calipers and stainless brake lines drilled and vented discs and green stuff pads.Any other ideas?

Thanks

I've never had it with my 4 pots, but bikes can suffer from 'pad knock' although this is gnerally because of floating disks.

Over bumos etc the pad knock the pistons back and then they need a pump or two to get them back in to place. . . .

Which calipers are you running ?

You can get constant pressure valves for the lines which keep about 5psi in the line and keep the pistons in place without actually doing any braking . . .

Email Number 7 through his profile as I know he runs them on his very quick Wedge . . .

[Johno]

Barreti said:

But after the upgrade I did a track day and the brakes are phenomenal on Johno's car when I went out with him . . ..

[Johno]

Green Meanie said:

Thanks tbdgriff500 my griff also has billet 4 pot calipers and stainless brake lines drilled and vented discs and green stuff pads.Any other ideas?

Thanks

One other thing, and I may be alone in this view, but I think Green Stuff pads are awful.

Pagid, Ferodo, AP = All experiences are very good.

Green Stuff = Awful experience. Viscious on disks and lacking in feel.

All comments come from on track and road use. I doubt it will be the pds eing an issue on thier own, but I'd change em anyway for something else.

However, like I say, my view on this on these forums is in the minority.

[Ballistic Banana]

Johno said:

Barreti said:

But after the upgrade I did a track day and the brakes are phenomenal on Johno's car when I went out with him . . ..

Have the same as Johnos... Fanbloodytastic wish I had done them and the Shocks first and would advise anyone who has just brought Griffith to put these two upgrades at the top of teh lists to so if they are still running standard.

BB

[Johno]

Ballistic Banana said:

Johno said:

Barreti said:

But after the upgrade I did a track day and the brakes are phenomenal on Johno's car when I went out with him . . ..

Have the same as Johnos... Fanbloodytastic wish I had done them and the Shocks first and would advise anyone who has just brought Griffith to put these two upgrades at the top of teh lists to so if they are still running standard.

BB

Told ya told ya told ya told ya

You do really need the suspension set up right to get the best from them, otherwise on standard suspension it's a tad more diffiult to stop very hard, very straight. . . .

[Ballistic Banana]

You bringing that loom with you Staurday?

[Johno]

Ballistic Banana said:

You bringing that loom with you Staurday?

Yeh I will . . . I spoke to Paul today and am due to talk to him again tomorrow, so can discuss with him finishing off that loom and making up the other . . .

[shpub]

spend said:

I'd just replace the fluid & check for leaks. Sounds like old contaminated fluid to me, supposed to be replaced every few years but may have been skimped. Also make sure you don't have a brake binding causing excess heat on the Motorway

Dave

Yep my thought as well. The obvious think is contaminated brake fluid but could be a leaky seal. Just because the system has been working for the last two years, it doesn't mean that faults can't happen.

[Barreti]

Johno said:

Barreti said:

But after the upgrade I did a track day and the brakes are phenomenal on Johno's car when I went out with him . . ..

Abso-chuffing-lutely.
I felt I was going to submarine out of my seatbelt and end up jammed into the battery box space when you braked

Although you do need 16" front wheels to do the conversion you and BB have don't you.

See you tomorrow mate

[Green Meanie]

Thanks to everybody for their input ,it has given me lots to think about .

[Just Trouble]

I need to purchase new front discs for my 1992 400 Griff as the current discs are causing vibration under heavy breaking due to being the original and they are possibly worn thin or warped. I was told that they may be Ford Granada discs. Can anyone clarify/confirm which front discs I need. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers.
JT