Drivers side rocker cover
Discussion
Anyone able to give me some pointers to getting the drivers side rocker cover off?
I managed to get the passenger side one off - no problem, but the bolt on the drivers side at the back I just can't get to due to water pipes (I think) being in the way.
I've tried a deep socket and a normal one - but no joy with either.
Any tips greatly appreciated.
Trying to check the state of the rocker arm pads.
Cheers
I managed to get the passenger side one off - no problem, but the bolt on the drivers side at the back I just can't get to due to water pipes (I think) being in the way.
I've tried a deep socket and a normal one - but no joy with either.
Any tips greatly appreciated.
Trying to check the state of the rocker arm pads.
Cheers
GreenV8S said:
Sounds like you will need to remove those pipes for access. Before you do that make sure they really are just water pipes. If you see where they connect to at the front, it should be obvious.
They are heater pipes,i undid mine albeit with the engine out, by putting a bi hex 8mm ring spanner throught the space between the two pipes at about 1/4 turn a go! when they are out replace with socket headed screws (Spend has details) I posted recently abbout it and he kindly gave me all details!Got the drivers side rocker cover off! - Thanks all
For 66K miles I'm amazed at the condition of both sides they look really good mostly silver, no nasty looking deposits or sludge.
It doesn't look like any of the rocker pads have disappeared so it's either a leaky manifold (that I've failed to find), a knackered camshaft or something much more sinister that is causing my ticking noise :-(
If the camshaft is worn are there any tell tale signs to look for whilst the rockers are off?
Really pleased with how well this has gone so far seeing as I'm not very mechanically minded!
For 66K miles I'm amazed at the condition of both sides they look really good mostly silver, no nasty looking deposits or sludge.
It doesn't look like any of the rocker pads have disappeared so it's either a leaky manifold (that I've failed to find), a knackered camshaft or something much more sinister that is causing my ticking noise :-(
If the camshaft is worn are there any tell tale signs to look for whilst the rockers are off?
Really pleased with how well this has gone so far seeing as I'm not very mechanically minded!
GreenV8S said:
bhpjon said:
They are heater pipes
... probably. But it would be a bit of a shame if they turned out to be the aircon connections.
Sorry greenV8s!!!!! in my eagerness to help somebody out after the help you guys have given me over the last few months, i only went off my car which doesn't have air con so i wasn't aware of this! A case of engage bible before mouth!!Edited by bhpjon on Sunday 30th September 10:09
mb450 said:
Got the drivers side rocker cover off! - Thanks all
For 66K miles I'm amazed at the condition of both sides they look really good mostly silver, no nasty looking deposits or sludge.
It doesn't look like any of the rocker pads have disappeared so it's either a leaky manifold (that I've failed to find), a knackered camshaft or something much more sinister that is causing my ticking noise :-(
If the camshaft is worn are there any tell tale signs to look for whilst the rockers are off?
Really pleased with how well this has gone so far seeing as I'm not very mechanically minded!
You could turn the engine over by hand and measure the lift on each rocker. However if your engine has done 50K + then it is probably worn.For 66K miles I'm amazed at the condition of both sides they look really good mostly silver, no nasty looking deposits or sludge.
It doesn't look like any of the rocker pads have disappeared so it's either a leaky manifold (that I've failed to find), a knackered camshaft or something much more sinister that is causing my ticking noise :-(
If the camshaft is worn are there any tell tale signs to look for whilst the rockers are off?
Really pleased with how well this has gone so far seeing as I'm not very mechanically minded!
mb450 said:
Drat it's just turned 66K :-( sounds like it's going to be pricey.
Matt
I'm just having mine done at 60K. Prices vary from £800-£1500 depending who you use. about £550-600 of that is parts. Unfortunately mine has turned into a full rebuild because the cam bearing had cracked but I'm told that's quite unusual!Matt
cue debate over cam choice...
Al 450 said:
I'm just having mine done at 60K. Prices vary from £800-£1500 depending who you use. about £550-600 of that is parts. Unfortunately mine has turned into a full rebuild because the cam bearing had cracked but I'm told that's quite unusual!
cue debate over cam choice...
That's not as bad as I thought it would be - who's doing your work?cue debate over cam choice...
spend said:
Some cars cams last much longer. You can either strip the inlet to look at the cam from above, or drop the sump and see it from underneath (much easier IMHO). Manifold leaks are much more common in all reality 
Cam wear & oil wars + useage patterns seem to be closely related.
Thanks Dave, Cam wear & oil wars + useage patterns seem to be closely related.If I drop the sump will I need to worry about re-priming the oil pump (it's a serp engine)?
Anything I need to be aware of dropping the sump except that I'm an enthusiastic numpty when it comes to mechanics.
The car is sorn at the moment so it's an ideal time to do any 'big jobs' whilst the radiator is being recored and the manifolds are being ceramic coated then it's off for some paint. My dad is much more mechanically minded and has rebuilt a number of smaller engines in the past so with his supervision is this something we could attempt at home or is that crazy talk?
mb450 said:
spend said:
Some cars cams last much longer. You can either strip the inlet to look at the cam from above, or drop the sump and see it from underneath (much easier IMHO). Manifold leaks are much more common in all reality Cam wear & oil wars + useage patterns seem to be closely related.
Thanks Dave, Cam wear & oil wars + useage patterns seem to be closely related.If I drop the sump will I need to worry about re-priming the oil pump (it's a serp engine)?
Anything I need to be aware of dropping the sump except that I'm an enthusiastic numpty when it comes to mechanics.
The car is sorn at the moment so it's an ideal time to do any 'big jobs' whilst the radiator is being recored and the manifolds are being ceramic coated then it's off for some paint. My dad is much more mechanically minded and has rebuilt a number of smaller engines in the past so with his supervision is this something we could attempt at home or is that crazy talk?
It can be done yourself obviously but I think there's a bit of expert knowledge required to shim the lifters and set the pre-load right (and other gubbins) then run the new cam in when it's all built up. I've been told by a few experts that it's common for people to get this wrong.
I chose the specialist because for the sake of a few hundred quid in labour i'm saving potentially a huge cost if I got it wrong and you'll also get a guarantee on the work.
Dropping the sump is not complicated, & well worth cleaning out IMHO. Many stories of blocked strainers and loose connections on the pickup pipe. Serp wont need priming, it should do it itself. Re-sealing the sump (silicone) is a bit of a black art.. Thin bead, left to tack overnight, trim off excess & fit is my preferred option (I also smear vaseline on the block face so it comes off next time). Funny how us old farts plaster vaseline all over our cars, still
Would be a good time to put some decent oil in... which might just clean out a sticky lifter. Quite a few of us tend to prefer the thicker synthetic oils.
When the sump is off, just turn the motor over by hand, with a light to see with you get a pretty good view of the cam.
Alternatively if you think it might be a broken valve spring or rocker pad you would go in from the top, but it sounds like you have done that already. It may have been prudent to have checked the preload whilst you were in the top of the engine.
In the worst case putting in a new cam isn't too difficult, just a lot to strip away. Given the choice of paying someone to do it, or shiny roller rockers with a solid cam...... You can guess where my money would go. I believe V8D can practically do it while you wait, as well as having good prices and nice cams.
Dave
Would be a good time to put some decent oil in... which might just clean out a sticky lifter. Quite a few of us tend to prefer the thicker synthetic oils.
When the sump is off, just turn the motor over by hand, with a light to see with you get a pretty good view of the cam.
Alternatively if you think it might be a broken valve spring or rocker pad you would go in from the top, but it sounds like you have done that already. It may have been prudent to have checked the preload whilst you were in the top of the engine.
In the worst case putting in a new cam isn't too difficult, just a lot to strip away. Given the choice of paying someone to do it, or shiny roller rockers with a solid cam...... You can guess where my money would go. I believe V8D can practically do it while you wait, as well as having good prices and nice cams.
Dave
Hi Dave,
Thanks great advice - thank you. The sump will be coming off tomorrow!
The car came with 6L of Motul 300V not sure if that's suitable or not emailed Opie Oils and they said it was a good oil and probably well suited for this age/mileage?
My dad has been over helping tonight so we decided that we'd had the rocker arms off on both sides. Reason being when we were turning the engine by hand I could swear that I saw one of the pads move, now they are off they all appear well seated so it was my (overactive) imagination - here are a couple of images of the rocker arms and valve stems some expert opinion welcome.
The rocker arm pad doesn't look as bad in person as it does in the photo - that's oil along the upper part of the pad in the picture - I hadn't wiped it properly - David Bailey I ain't! Evidence of the poor wiping still on there
This is the worst valve stem looks a little worn on the top side
This is it before I took it to bits - just can't believe how grot free it is!
Anyone got any idea what the torque should be for the 4 retaining rocker arm bolts - I'm going to grab a RR manual tomorrow as it might come in handy for some of the more obscure torque settings.
As you can see, the pads are pretty shiny where they come in to contact with the valve stemps - measured them to see if they are pitted but my gauge isn't accurate enough to show a difference in the meat on the nonshiny and the shiny parts.
Is there anyway to tell if these are the steel flavor ones or alloy ones, part numbers etc?
I know these are all stupid questions but I'm having so much fun working on it while I can't drive it :-)
Thanks great advice - thank you. The sump will be coming off tomorrow!
The car came with 6L of Motul 300V not sure if that's suitable or not emailed Opie Oils and they said it was a good oil and probably well suited for this age/mileage?
My dad has been over helping tonight so we decided that we'd had the rocker arms off on both sides. Reason being when we were turning the engine by hand I could swear that I saw one of the pads move, now they are off they all appear well seated so it was my (overactive) imagination - here are a couple of images of the rocker arms and valve stems some expert opinion welcome.
The rocker arm pad doesn't look as bad in person as it does in the photo - that's oil along the upper part of the pad in the picture - I hadn't wiped it properly - David Bailey I ain't! Evidence of the poor wiping still on there
This is the worst valve stem looks a little worn on the top side
This is it before I took it to bits - just can't believe how grot free it is!
Anyone got any idea what the torque should be for the 4 retaining rocker arm bolts - I'm going to grab a RR manual tomorrow as it might come in handy for some of the more obscure torque settings.
As you can see, the pads are pretty shiny where they come in to contact with the valve stemps - measured them to see if they are pitted but my gauge isn't accurate enough to show a difference in the meat on the nonshiny and the shiny parts.
Is there anyway to tell if these are the steel flavor ones or alloy ones, part numbers etc?
I know these are all stupid questions but I'm having so much fun working on it while I can't drive it :-)
Replacement rocker cover bolts I used are 1/4"UNC socket caps (aka allen bolts), note the inner & outer are different lengths so you may have to trim them to length. Rovers just use slotted screws, but a ball ended hex key reaches them fine.
Torque settings are on Griff Pages, Chim Pages, http://www.roversd1.nl, googling "rover v8 engine torque settings ee" will give you access to most the info you need.
Do check the preloads, you cant just wack the rocker shafts back on willynilly.
Dave
Torque settings are on Griff Pages, Chim Pages, http://www.roversd1.nl, googling "rover v8 engine torque settings ee" will give you access to most the info you need.
Do check the preloads, you cant just wack the rocker shafts back on willynilly.
Dave
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