Changing driveshaft boots
Changing driveshaft boots
Author
Discussion

V8Cerbera

Original Poster:

1,220 posts

239 months

Wednesday 10th October 2007
quotequote all
Is there a howto for this particular bit of maintenance?

Nick Cooper

139 posts

249 months

Wednesday 10th October 2007
quotequote all
Dead easy did mine not long ago.

1. get it up on axle stands
2. wheels off
3. undo bottom ball joints, so hub can be pulled away when getting the drive shaft out.
4. undo the socket cap screws on each end of the shaft
5. the shaft can now be removed
6. undo the clips round each boot and pull back the rubber.
7. clean out all the old grease and you will find a circlip that fits between the splines and the cv joint, expand this and the cv joint will pull off.
8. pull off old boot, slide on new one.
9. push on the cv joint, you should hear the circlip click into place.make sure you cant pull the cv joint off.
10. fill with grease
11. refit boot
12. fit them back to car.
13. think that covers it all.

I think they are ford granada boots.

any probs e-mail me and i can talk you through it.


jbvipercerb

246 posts

250 months

Wednesday 10th October 2007
quotequote all
Just as Nick's very accurate description says, other than when I did mine I didn't take the wheels off just undid the allen key bolts gave the joints a light tap and they came out of the gap. They are easy, just very dirty with the old grease getting everywhere.

Nick Cooper

139 posts

249 months

Wednesday 10th October 2007
quotequote all
jbvipercerb said:
Just as Nick's very accurate description says, other than when I did mine I didn't take the wheels off just undid the allen key bolts gave the joints a light tap and they came out of the gap. They are easy, just very dirty with the old grease getting everywhere.
New someone would have an easier way to do it suppose i should have asked as well.presumed they wouldnt come out of the gap.

V8Cerbera

Original Poster:

1,220 posts

239 months

Wednesday 10th October 2007
quotequote all
Cheers guys. I have a split one, will replace it at the weekend smile

V8Cerbera

Original Poster:

1,220 posts

239 months

Monday 15th October 2007
quotequote all
I'm gonna attempt this at the weekend....

BTW is that a Granada (old style) or a Granada Scorpio drive shaft boot I need to extract from ford?

jbvipercerb

246 posts

250 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
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They are the Scorpio type, I bought mine from a local motor factors, there cheaper than the dealers, and just the same quality. Can't remember how much though.

Nefarious

989 posts

295 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
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This is on my list for the weekend too.The Scorpio boots were £3.60 each, so I put some of the saving over Clever Trevor's £9.99 towards some chunky little hose clips to replace the pathetic cable ties that the standard items have.

Duke Thrust

1,680 posts

269 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
quotequote all
Nefarious said:
This is on my list for the weekend too.The Scorpio boots were £3.60 each, so I put some of the saving over Clever Trevor's £9.99 towards some chunky little hose clips to replace the pathetic cable ties that the standard items have.
Be careful of the traditional worm type clips, they can throw things out of balance - I've used them to re-balance prop shafts in the past by altering their position relative to the worm drive.

The other type that are crimped on both sides would be cool.


Nick Cooper

139 posts

249 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
quotequote all
Get some decent quality cable ties and you shouldent have any prob's. well mine havent fallen off yet

warpig1

336 posts

235 months

Wednesday 17th October 2007
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buy some decent quality granada ones from a factor and you'll some nice metel bands in the kit that you crush to grip, cable ties are generally no good-trust me i do it for a living

V8Cerbera

Original Poster:

1,220 posts

239 months

Sunday 21st October 2007
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Bugger Bugger Bugger.....

Thwarted by one of those blasted Allen bolts - THE LAST ONE, which instead of releasing, chose to round the head off.

I'm buggered if I know how I'm going to get that out now frown

BTW, they were VERY tight - I had to brace my legs against the rear bumper, and pull the wrench with both hands and pretty much the rest of my body muscles too - Now I'm not exactly the weakest person... should they be this tight?

TT Tim

4,168 posts

277 months

Monday 22nd October 2007
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Have had good results using Irwin extractors. They have been the only tool of this type that I've used that actually works!

You could try and find some of these:

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.j...

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/resources/IRWIN_2006_Ex...

A quick 'Google' found this site: http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php?products_i...

Just found that site offers a set - bugger! Just off to find my CC. biggrinhttp://www.uktools.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_1...

Good luck

Tim

Edited by TT Tim on Monday 22 October 08:34

V8Cerbera

Original Poster:

1,220 posts

239 months

Monday 22nd October 2007
quotequote all
Nice idea. Based on how firmly these were stuck in, I may have to dig out my biggest, strongest drill...

TT Tim

4,168 posts

277 months

Monday 22nd October 2007
quotequote all
V8Cerbera said:
Nice idea. Based on how firmly these were stuck in, I may have to dig out my biggest, strongest drill...
I changed the exhaust on my Range Rover recently, the studs into the manifold were rusty beyond recognition, I drilled one nut off but snapped a small drill bit. I saw these extractors in ScrewFix when I was ordering the replacement bits, so thought I'd give them a go, not really expecting them to work as I've never had much success with EasyOuts in teh past.

But I was pleasantly suprised, the extractors are beautifully made in carbon steel, I believe, the more torque you put on the extractor the tighter they get on the offending nut/bolt until they yeald.

I ended up buying several sets so that I'd always have the right size.

Good luck

Tim

TvrJohn

1,070 posts

285 months

Thursday 5th June 2008
quotequote all
from Nick Cooper
3. undo bottom ball joints, so hub can be pulled away when getting the drive shaft out.
this must be styep from a FWD car ?
No ball joints on rear cerb suspension

Did mine last night, to get half shaft out, i found it easiest to remove top wishbone pivot bolt and swing out the upright.
It then wiggles out !

mark.rowe

230 posts

268 months

Thursday 5th June 2008
quotequote all
TvrJohn said:
from Nick Cooper
3. undo bottom ball joints, so hub can be pulled away when getting the drive shaft out.
this must be styep from a FWD car ?
No ball joints on rear cerb suspension

Did mine last night, to get half shaft out, i found it easiest to remove top wishbone pivot bolt and swing out the upright.
It then wiggles out !
This is how I changed mine the other day.
It is a bit tight to get the new one in place, but with a bit of patience and brute force it goes.

JensenA

5,671 posts

260 months

Thursday 5th June 2008
quotequote all
V8Cerbera said:
Bugger Bugger Bugger.....

............ I had to brace my legs against the rear bumper, and pull the wrench with both hands and pretty much the rest of my body muscles too - Now I'm not exactly the weakest person... should they be this tight?
Are we talking at cross purposes here - The instructions given are for the replacing the front steering arm gaiters. The Driveshafts are on the rear. I'm not sure how you replace them, don't you have to remove that big 40mm nut from the rear hub assembly first?