Changing driveshaft boots
Discussion
Dead easy did mine not long ago.
1. get it up on axle stands
2. wheels off
3. undo bottom ball joints, so hub can be pulled away when getting the drive shaft out.
4. undo the socket cap screws on each end of the shaft
5. the shaft can now be removed
6. undo the clips round each boot and pull back the rubber.
7. clean out all the old grease and you will find a circlip that fits between the splines and the cv joint, expand this and the cv joint will pull off.
8. pull off old boot, slide on new one.
9. push on the cv joint, you should hear the circlip click into place.make sure you cant pull the cv joint off.
10. fill with grease
11. refit boot
12. fit them back to car.
13. think that covers it all.
I think they are ford granada boots.
any probs e-mail me and i can talk you through it.
1. get it up on axle stands
2. wheels off
3. undo bottom ball joints, so hub can be pulled away when getting the drive shaft out.
4. undo the socket cap screws on each end of the shaft
5. the shaft can now be removed
6. undo the clips round each boot and pull back the rubber.
7. clean out all the old grease and you will find a circlip that fits between the splines and the cv joint, expand this and the cv joint will pull off.
8. pull off old boot, slide on new one.
9. push on the cv joint, you should hear the circlip click into place.make sure you cant pull the cv joint off.
10. fill with grease
11. refit boot
12. fit them back to car.
13. think that covers it all.
I think they are ford granada boots.
any probs e-mail me and i can talk you through it.
jbvipercerb said:
Just as Nick's very accurate description says, other than when I did mine I didn't take the wheels off just undid the allen key bolts gave the joints a light tap and they came out of the gap. They are easy, just very dirty with the old grease getting everywhere.
New someone would have an easier way to do it suppose i should have asked as well.presumed they wouldnt come out of the gap. Nefarious said:
This is on my list for the weekend too.The Scorpio boots were £3.60 each, so I put some of the saving over Clever Trevor's £9.99 towards some chunky little hose clips to replace the pathetic cable ties that the standard items have.
Be careful of the traditional worm type clips, they can throw things out of balance - I've used them to re-balance prop shafts in the past by altering their position relative to the worm drive.The other type that are crimped on both sides would be cool.
Bugger Bugger Bugger.....
Thwarted by one of those blasted Allen bolts - THE LAST ONE, which instead of releasing, chose to round the head off.
I'm buggered if I know how I'm going to get that out now
BTW, they were VERY tight - I had to brace my legs against the rear bumper, and pull the wrench with both hands and pretty much the rest of my body muscles too - Now I'm not exactly the weakest person... should they be this tight?
Thwarted by one of those blasted Allen bolts - THE LAST ONE, which instead of releasing, chose to round the head off.
I'm buggered if I know how I'm going to get that out now

BTW, they were VERY tight - I had to brace my legs against the rear bumper, and pull the wrench with both hands and pretty much the rest of my body muscles too - Now I'm not exactly the weakest person... should they be this tight?
Have had good results using Irwin extractors. They have been the only tool of this type that I've used that actually works!
You could try and find some of these:
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.j...
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/resources/IRWIN_2006_Ex...
A quick 'Google' found this site: http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php?products_i...
Just found that site offers a set - bugger! Just off to find my CC.
http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_1...
Good luck
Tim
You could try and find some of these:
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.j...
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/resources/IRWIN_2006_Ex...
A quick 'Google' found this site: http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php?products_i...
Just found that site offers a set - bugger! Just off to find my CC.
http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_1...Good luck
Tim
Edited by TT Tim on Monday 22 October 08:34
V8Cerbera said:
Nice idea. Based on how firmly these were stuck in, I may have to dig out my biggest, strongest drill...
I changed the exhaust on my Range Rover recently, the studs into the manifold were rusty beyond recognition, I drilled one nut off but snapped a small drill bit. I saw these extractors in ScrewFix when I was ordering the replacement bits, so thought I'd give them a go, not really expecting them to work as I've never had much success with EasyOuts in teh past.But I was pleasantly suprised, the extractors are beautifully made in carbon steel, I believe, the more torque you put on the extractor the tighter they get on the offending nut/bolt until they yeald.
I ended up buying several sets so that I'd always have the right size.
Good luck
Tim
from Nick Cooper
3. undo bottom ball joints, so hub can be pulled away when getting the drive shaft out.
this must be styep from a FWD car ?
No ball joints on rear cerb suspension
Did mine last night, to get half shaft out, i found it easiest to remove top wishbone pivot bolt and swing out the upright.
It then wiggles out !
3. undo bottom ball joints, so hub can be pulled away when getting the drive shaft out.
this must be styep from a FWD car ?
No ball joints on rear cerb suspension
Did mine last night, to get half shaft out, i found it easiest to remove top wishbone pivot bolt and swing out the upright.
It then wiggles out !
TvrJohn said:
from Nick Cooper
3. undo bottom ball joints, so hub can be pulled away when getting the drive shaft out.
this must be styep from a FWD car ?
No ball joints on rear cerb suspension
Did mine last night, to get half shaft out, i found it easiest to remove top wishbone pivot bolt and swing out the upright.
It then wiggles out !
This is how I changed mine the other day.3. undo bottom ball joints, so hub can be pulled away when getting the drive shaft out.
this must be styep from a FWD car ?
No ball joints on rear cerb suspension
Did mine last night, to get half shaft out, i found it easiest to remove top wishbone pivot bolt and swing out the upright.
It then wiggles out !
It is a bit tight to get the new one in place, but with a bit of patience and brute force it goes.
V8Cerbera said:
Bugger Bugger Bugger.....
............ I had to brace my legs against the rear bumper, and pull the wrench with both hands and pretty much the rest of my body muscles too - Now I'm not exactly the weakest person... should they be this tight?
Are we talking at cross purposes here - The instructions given are for the replacing the front steering arm gaiters. The Driveshafts are on the rear. I'm not sure how you replace them, don't you have to remove that big 40mm nut from the rear hub assembly first?............ I had to brace my legs against the rear bumper, and pull the wrench with both hands and pretty much the rest of my body muscles too - Now I'm not exactly the weakest person... should they be this tight?
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