Fixed the leaking RL7s
Discussion
I was asking quite a while back if anyone else had problems with there 17” RL7s going down all the time, it seemed quite a few people did, so I thought I’d share my findings.
I tried getting one refurbished a few years back but it still kept going down, so we used it as an excuse to buy a set of spiders. But since then I’ve found they fit my 200SX so I tried fixing them & it worked! All I did was clean up & smooth out the inner lip where the tyre seals. The referbed wheel had such bad pitting in it the air was getting out though the newly painted pits. I just mounted the rim (having had the tyre removed) on my drill by sitting in on a suitably sized hole cutter, then evenly sanded the inner lip of the rim with a flap disc on the angle grinder, the motion of the disc on the grinder makes the wheel spin quite fast giving a nice even result. I intended using the drill to spin the wheel, but found it worked better by letting the grinder do if for me. (You could just bolt it up to the front hub of the car, it would be a bit safer, I did get a bit of a wobble on some times). That was three or four months ago & the tyre is still at exactly the same pressure. As it worked so well I have done the same on the other two leaking ones. They hadn’t been referbed, but still leaked as the paint had lifted with corrosion & the air was getting out under it. The same trick worked a treat with them, so I’m happy!
Hope it helps some one.
I tried getting one refurbished a few years back but it still kept going down, so we used it as an excuse to buy a set of spiders. But since then I’ve found they fit my 200SX so I tried fixing them & it worked! All I did was clean up & smooth out the inner lip where the tyre seals. The referbed wheel had such bad pitting in it the air was getting out though the newly painted pits. I just mounted the rim (having had the tyre removed) on my drill by sitting in on a suitably sized hole cutter, then evenly sanded the inner lip of the rim with a flap disc on the angle grinder, the motion of the disc on the grinder makes the wheel spin quite fast giving a nice even result. I intended using the drill to spin the wheel, but found it worked better by letting the grinder do if for me. (You could just bolt it up to the front hub of the car, it would be a bit safer, I did get a bit of a wobble on some times). That was three or four months ago & the tyre is still at exactly the same pressure. As it worked so well I have done the same on the other two leaking ones. They hadn’t been referbed, but still leaked as the paint had lifted with corrosion & the air was getting out under it. The same trick worked a treat with them, so I’m happy!
Hope it helps some one.
JensenA said:
Good tip Luckyone ! I can't quite picture how you got the wheel on to your drill though, tell me more.
Ta! I clamped the drill upside down in the trusty old Black & Decker work mate. Then fitted the whole saw to the drill, one of these: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...Found the saw bit that matched the location hole (spigot ring) in center of the wheel, wrapped some masking tape round it to protect the wheel & sat it on. As you can see from the pic the base of the cutter is much larger than the blade so the wheel rests on that while being located by the blade.
Hope that makes sense!
The RL7's do look so right 
, closest match to the look is the Compomotive MO6's imho.Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff