manifold gaskets

[SI 4.3]

Need to replace the manifold gasket on my pre cat,which ones are the best to use.
Simon

[FlipFlopGriff]

Si,
email Ian (barretti) as he's done his BV recently and he'll tell you which ones are best and where to get some.
FFG

[Simon.b]

Just done my 500, ring ACT, quick chat, they’ll tell you which ones and supply, very reasonable and quick, though mine was before the postal strike.

Cheers,

Simon.

[GreenV8S]

The twin metal composite ones work best for me, RPI do some plain ones but Clever Trevor do the much nicer OEM embossed ones.

[LordGrover]

GreenV8S said:

The twin metal composite ones work best for me, RPI do some plain ones but Clever Trevor do the much nicer OEM embossed ones.

I think it's these.

[Griff Boy]

as a side point, I was advised when changing my gaskets to change the bolts to 'ARP K' head (I think thats there name) bolts. As they have a different design of head, and make the job much easier if you ever have to do it again.

Still pig of a job though!

[Barreti]

My old gaskets


My new gaskets

I got these from Ian Greenwood (Aaron C Reskew) who seems to have gone very quiet on here.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/profile.asp?m...
The only thing I can find on cost is for a half set at £16 - thats 2 port gaskets and 1 flange gasket. He packages them well and shoves them in the post.

I have a set of port gaskets the same as the ones which were originally on the car but I needed a pair of flange gaskets and when I saw the quality of the ones from Ian I got the entire set from him.
They are considerably thicker than the original sandwich metal type I originally had on.
I had one blow within a couple of hundred miles of fitting though, but I've put that down to the head bolts needing pinching up quite a bit when the gaskets are first put on and I wasn't aware of it and not vigilant enough. I kid you not, I turned every bolt at least a full turn over a period of about 6 weeks.
I replaced both gaskets on that manifold with the same ones again and haven't had a problem this time.

I've heard very good reports about the ones already shown on here at Clever Trevor and they look a competitive price too.

As for the ARP bolts, I'm not entirely convinced about them yet. They look smart, and you can get a spanner on them a little bit easier, but they're 3/8 spanner size and the spanner flexes a bit more than the 11mm? spanner used for the original bolts. So you've got to be careful if using the open ended side - which on some bolts you have to - or you'll round the edges off.

Don't worry about it being a pig of a job Si, it isn't THAT bad and I've seen your work - you'll piss it.
If you're replacing the OS manifold you will need to take the starter out to get to the manifold bolts, so you'll need one of these..


And you'll need to have the car on stands obviously because you can only do some of this from underneath - despite what some people say

If you need anymore information give me a shout, I documented loads of stuff when I did it.

Edited by Barreti on Saturday 13th October 00:28 because I'm a spaz and didn't notice the link which wasn't correct :-(

Edited by Barreti on Saturday 13th October 00:30

[GreenV8S]

The ARP bolts are absolutely a no-brainer. They are well over the top in terms of spec but at least you can be fairly confident they won't snap. The most important thing is that the K heads are much smaller which makes it merely awkward to get the spanner on, instead of 'you have got to be joking' with the originals. Having got the right gaskets and the ARP bolts, the third thing you need is a decent set of 72-point ratchet ring spanners covering 14mm and 3/8", ideally with a pivoting head. There will still be a few bolts that you have to do up with open enders, but the ones that you can get the ratchet on will zip up in seconds instead of breaking your back while you try to tease them up half a flat at a time with the open ender.

[Barreti]

GreenV8S said:

instead of 'you have got to be joking' with the originals.

I'd forgotten that

GreenV8S said:

but the ones that you can get the ratchet on will zip up in seconds instead of breaking your back while you try to tease them up half a flat at a time with the open ender.

Very true.

Maybe I am convinced after all.

[SI 4.3]

Thanks for the posts all of the advise will be useful.
Simon.

[Peter66]

I also have the problem of continuously having to re tighten the manifold bolts. Is this because of a bad gasket or bad bolts? Is it also normal that this happens after some time of use?

Thanks, Peter

[The AJP Griff]

GreenV8S said:

The twin metal composite ones work best for me.......

I suffered continual recurring problems with the composite gaskets i was using,until i bought some of these from Clever Trevor.These look a really nice quality item,and they have been on for quite a while now without issue.I still used the std bolts no problem,but use new and good quality lock washers each time,which also seems to make a difference to stopping the bolts working loose.

[spend]

The AJP Griff said:

..I still used the std bolts no problem,but use new and good quality lock washers each time,which also seems to make a difference to stopping the bolts working loose.

I also think that is essential, the split spring washers should be replaced if they have flattened, and for the cost of them just get a bagful. I have no problems with the later metal LR gaskets - like the ones Ian removed.

[snipe]I do wonder if the clamped manifolds may be abused by struggling to get the joint made - it is essential to torque up the manifold before joining the Y-piece IMHO[/snipe]

Dave

[Pasco]

spend said:

The AJP Griff said:

..I still used the std bolts no problem,but use new and good quality lock washers each time,which also seems to make a difference to stopping the bolts working loose.

I also think that is essential, the split spring washers should be replaced if they have flattened, and for the cost of them just get a bagful. I have no problems with the later metal LR gaskets - like the ones Ian removed.

[snipe]I do wonder if the clamped manifolds may be abused by struggling to get the joint made - it is essential to torque up the manifold before joining the Y-piece IMHO[/snipe]

Dave

Having carried this job out myself with knuckle bleeding efficiency

[snipe] How the Hell do you torque up the manifold bolts [snipe/]

No e-mail this morning btw Dave


O/T Sorry i have not called you Mike will get my ass into gear

[GreenV8S]

Pasco said:

How the Hell do you torque up the manifold bolts

You don't need a torque wrench to torque a bolt up. The point is that they should be done up tight before the Y piece is fitted, so you aren't fighting against the Y piece as you pull the bolts up tight.

Edited to fix quoting.

Edited by GreenV8S on Saturday 13th October 16:27

[spend]

I hold my spanner at exactly 6" from the centre of the stud in one hand, stand on roller skates, and have a mate pull a spring balance set to 70lb force which I grasp in the other hand.

Simple really....

Dave

[Barreti]

Why is it I can so vividly and easily imagine you doing that Dave

[spend]

Barreti said:

Why is it I can so vividly and easily imagine you doing that Dave

Because you know how innovative I am Really...

Dave

ETA: If you hadn't spoiled the ruse, Pasco may well have tried it :bugger:

Edited by spend on Saturday 13th October 17:54

[Pasco]

spend said:

Barreti said:

Why is it I can so vividly and easily imagine you doing that Dave

Because you know how innovative I am Really...

Dave

ETA: If you hadn't spoiled the ruse, Pasco may well have tried it :bugger:

Edited by spend on Saturday 13th October 17:54

I still think it might be worth a try

[spend]

Pasco said:

I still think it might be worth a try

I would believe that.... if you had posted after 10pm :hic:

Dave