replacing boot on wheel end of driveshaft

[XTR2Turbo]

I need to replace the boot that has split at the end nearest the wheel.

I have not started to take it apart yet. To save me time experimenting etc what is thebest way of getting to this? Is it possible to remove the drive shaft by simply detaching at the gearbox end and then undoing the bolts also holding the boot at the wheel end and pulling or is there a nut holding it from outside of the hub?

Thanks

David

Edited by XTR2Turbo on Monday 15th October 15:36

[TuxMan]

Hi Dave , i had the same problem think i took driveshaft off completely then there is a big "C"clip on the end to get cv joint off . i think !!!!

[Crazy of Cookham]

I think you will find you need to take the drive shaft off. This can be done without removing exhausts etc although putting back and getting torgue wrench in is difficult. There is a circlip at end which has to be removed and then bearing taken off before boot can be put back on.

[XTR2Turbo]

thanks

the gear box is out, will the drive shaft just pull out when I undo the 6 bolts at the hub end?

[Steve_D]

The drive shaft is bolted at each end with six bolts. (different size each end).
Once on the bench the shaft can be removed from the joint by releasing the circlip.

Steve

[RazMan]

Worth mentioning that it is a good idea to replace the standard boots with GKN 'fast' boots which are much stiffer and resist deformation at high speeds - I lost two boots this way until I discovered these beauties. Merlin Autosport stock them.

[XTR2Turbo]

thanks all

[k wright]

RazMan said:

Worth mentioning that it is a good idea to replace the standard boots with GKN 'fast' boots which are much stiffer and resist deformation at high speeds - I lost two boots this way until I discovered these beauties. Merlin Autosport stock them.

Any chance of getting a part number and link to the vendor?

Thanks,

ken

[XTR2Turbo]

It's actually merlin motorsport. I have just ordered 2 online - not in stock at the moment though.

link


David

Edited by XTR2Turbo on Wednesday 17th October 09:03

[RazMan]

Yep, they're the ones - available in two sizes so make sure you order the right ones ..... not like me

[XTR2Turbo]

Ah can you remember which is the correct size? 10 or 12?

Edited by XTR2Turbo on Tuesday 16th October 23:24

[bluesatin]

The GKN boot is very expensive! Also be careful of turning the wheel when the car as it is jacked up as it can cut the rubber.

[RazMan]

I can't remember the actual sizes but if you give Merlin a call they will tell you. All I know is that I ordered the smaller ones and had to reorder the larger (more expensive) ones. Probably best to measure your CV joint diameter to confirm.

It does seem a lot of money for a bit of rubber & steel - but at least they hold together very well at high speed. The 'bellows' type can get a kind of wobble due to grease collecting unevenly on the inside, causing it to get out of shape with the uneven centrifugal force and quickly splitting. This is more likely to happen if your driveshafts are running at an angle. This happened to me on the rollers at 151mph! ...... very messy when you are standing behind the car too - everything was covered in warm black snotty CV grease and I am still finding splashes a year later.

Edited by RazMan on Wednesday 17th October 10:37

[XTR2Turbo]

It's the larger one's and the above link now points to the correct part.

[Builder]

Maybe some pertinent info from GKN on boots.

Came across this while looking for some GKN boots in the USA. I don't know about stock, but Race Parts appears to have them for £18.74 (if it's the same part MS6K024).

In the USA, Taylor has these for $28.33. It's their part number 020029.

If not the right part, these shouldn't break:

Edited by Builder on Wednesday 17th October 18:17