Boot wont latch - Help!!

[RAS]

The boot release switch stuck against the dashboard. As a result the 10amp instrument fuse blew.

Having replaced the fuse the boot will not lock closed, the catch stays on permanent release (better this way than the other).

Is there a relay in the circuit that I may have burnt out or is it likely that I have fried the solenoid?

Dopes anyone know where I start looking.

Just replaced dash, so don't relish having it out again!

Many thanks
Roger

Edited by RAS on Monday 15th October 17:49

[Aussie John]

Just have a look at the solenoid in the boot, see if the cable is in the "pulled" position, if it is then pull the electrical plug , if it now changes position then it sounds like the button is shorted, if the solenoid doesnt move then I would say that it is jiggered. PS dont close the boot with the wiring disconnected or you may have trouble getting in, cheers, John.

[RAS]

Thanks for the advice John. Turned out to be a fried solinoid, sorted with a replacement from Maplin's for a tenner.

[john grif]

Mod note: Post removed - not appropriate to document by-pass process in a public forum.

Edited by Kinky on Friday 26th October 17:11

[Uncle Fester]

Ras

What dash you got?

My cars previous owner had put a Leven metal dash in.

If you don't get the switch instalation right (he hadn't) it traps buttons.

I burned 3 solonoids out before I found out. Worse still it can turn your lights off. I was suddenly plunged into darkness on an unlit road.

Dead lucky it was one I know well.

If you do have a Leven dash get in touch with them and they will give you the info to do the job right.

[TVR_nut]

RAS said:

The boot release switch stuck against the dashboard. As a result the 10amp instrument fuse blew.

Having replaced the fuse the boot will not lock closed, the catch stays on permanent release (better this way than the other).

Is there a relay in the circuit that I may have burnt out or is it likely that I have fried the solenoid?

Dopes anyone know where I start looking.

Just replaced dash, so don't relish having it out again!

Many thanks
Roger

Edited by RAS on Monday 15th October 17:49

EXACTLY the same scenario I had a couple of years back. I got the new solenoid from a dealer (in the days when there were still some...) as was in a rush, and was still only about £15 if I remember rightly.

Only difference is that my dash was not a new one. The cause was the switch being too far in (recessed), and able to move to the side and foul. The hazard light switch did the same (so NEVER use it on the motorway to signify a jam ahead!).

It was sorted whilst having the alarm replaced - apparently the switch panel is just glued to the back of the metal dash (onto which the veneer is stuck), and tends to come adrift with age/corrosion of the metal dash panel.

My lesson was not to tolerate things that are "nearly right" until they become a problem.

(Car is off the road currently, as a radiator leak I have put up with for years has suddently worsened. I obviously failed to learn my lesson!!!)

TVR_nut

[TVR_nut]

RAS said:

Thanks for the advice John. Turned out to be a fried solinoid, sorted with a replacement from Maplin's for a tenner.

For info, do you have a part reference? For next time....

Neil.

[RAS]

Thanks for the suggestions, yes I had just fitted a Leven dash. Spent ages getting the alignment right and testing on the bench before I refitted. I think the problem occurred when I flexed the dash to refit it and forgot to retest the switch (that is until I when to the garage to fill up the car)and the switch jammed in. Switch has now been realigned, so hopefully all should be OK in future.

The Maplin's part number is YD79L, it has bullet connectors which I had to change to spades, I think the gender I needed was male.