Starting after new cam oil pressure
Discussion
Have tried to start the engine and the oil light flickers, I have a spark at the plugs and fuel getting to the cylinders and it's trying to start but thats about it. How do you check if the pump has primed and is there away of helping the pump prime on a serpentine engine. Shurley without the oil pressure the hydraulic tappets are not going to pump up enough to open the valves.
No the engine is not running, I have removed the plugs and some are black so it is trying to start (These were all new) I have checked the timming twice and I think it is correct. While turning the engine over I have moved the dizzy a little in each direction and it's trying to start where I have it set. Please can you confirm the timming to make shure I have it right.
Also on the oil pump, I have filled the engine and filter approx 5.5Ltrs but it has been a few days since refitting the front cover so if the gears are dry how do I get some fresh oil on to them.
Also on the oil pump, I have filled the engine and filter approx 5.5Ltrs but it has been a few days since refitting the front cover so if the gears are dry how do I get some fresh oil on to them.
Ok as spend has just mentioned i reckon you could be 180 deg out easily done!
There are 2 ways of checking this on a rover motor, one is you can put your finger in the plug hole while turning the engine over and when you feel pressure against your finger that is the firing stroke, so from here as soon as you feel the pressure, look at the front pulley and turn it to tdc on its marks, secondly you can take of the oil filler cap and keep flicking the engine over till you see number 1 exhaust rocker moving, again note the front pulley tdc marks, the first time the tdc mark comes around this will be 180 deg out so do another full rotation of the crank pulley untill tdc is lined up, from here take the dizzy cap off and you want your rotor arm pointing downwards one pin/lead before the clips that hold the cap on, there are 3 screws that hold the cover plate onto the dizzy move the dizzy so the rotor arm is pointing just in front of the screw, this is around 10 deg btdc (but some dizzys vary) on no 1 firing stroke from there it is 18436572 in a clockwise position,
There are 2 ways of checking this on a rover motor, one is you can put your finger in the plug hole while turning the engine over and when you feel pressure against your finger that is the firing stroke, so from here as soon as you feel the pressure, look at the front pulley and turn it to tdc on its marks, secondly you can take of the oil filler cap and keep flicking the engine over till you see number 1 exhaust rocker moving, again note the front pulley tdc marks, the first time the tdc mark comes around this will be 180 deg out so do another full rotation of the crank pulley untill tdc is lined up, from here take the dizzy cap off and you want your rotor arm pointing downwards one pin/lead before the clips that hold the cap on, there are 3 screws that hold the cover plate onto the dizzy move the dizzy so the rotor arm is pointing just in front of the screw, this is around 10 deg btdc (but some dizzys vary) on no 1 firing stroke from there it is 18436572 in a clockwise position,
Chris,
Did you pack the oil pump with vaseline when you put it back on? This is enough to prime the system. When I did mine, I primed it before I put on the rocker gear and puch rods. With the fuel rail disconnected and a bottle over the pipe to catch what little fuel came out, I turned the engine over for a good 10 secs or so until I saw pressure rising on the guage and emerging from around the tappets.
I've never head of priming the pump through the sender hole. Sounds like a good idea to me. You may need to put quite a lot in though...
Did you pack the oil pump with vaseline when you put it back on? This is enough to prime the system. When I did mine, I primed it before I put on the rocker gear and puch rods. With the fuel rail disconnected and a bottle over the pipe to catch what little fuel came out, I turned the engine over for a good 10 secs or so until I saw pressure rising on the guage and emerging from around the tappets.
I've never head of priming the pump through the sender hole. Sounds like a good idea to me. You may need to put quite a lot in though...
It's the serpentine engine which are self priming, so did not pack the gears with vasoline. Did put a little oil on the gears but I think as it's been sat this oil has run out hence nothing to help create the suction. Hence the sender switch dose this come straight off the pump, if so a some oil should give it a helping start.
chrispitman said:
Is there a method of priming the oil gears again without removing the front cover. Can it be done by removing the pressure sender (Serp engine)by the anternator.
As Peter etal have said oil pressure isn't your problem, you really need to fire it up.Squirting oil in the sender or other tappings is the same as the 'up the middle of the oil filter' method, I reckon. These methods don't push oil into the pump, but into the galleries (thats' not priming as I understand the term? - but seems to work) If you can pop out the pressure relief spring & plunger piston - squirting down that will prime directly into the pump, and down the pickup. They are my own observations/deductions BTW, & may be complete rubbish as TD likes to remind me
Dave
spend said:
chrispitman said:
Is there a method of priming the oil gears again without removing the front cover. Can it be done by removing the pressure sender (Serp engine)by the anternator.
As Peter etal have said oil pressure isn't your problem, you really need to fire it up.Squirting oil in the sender or other tappings is the same as the 'up the middle of the oil filter' method, I reckon. These methods don't push oil into the pump, but into the galleries (thats' not priming as I understand the term? - but seems to work) If you can pop out the pressure relief spring & plunger piston - squirting down that will prime directly into the pump, and down the pickup. They are my own observations/deductions BTW, & may be complete rubbish as TD likes to remind me
Dave
its not rubbish,i just like poking you in the ribs at times
Getting some where now, spun the dizzy 180 deg and after a little cranking the engine fired up, ran a few second and started to watch the oil pressure gauge, went to blip the throtle and it spluttered and died. (Forget to check the oil warining light but it only ran for 5-6 seconds).
Whats causing it to splutter when pushing the pedal.
Whats causing it to splutter when pushing the pedal.
If you haven't touched anything else... (Is fuel pump running) revisit your timing (cam & dizzy). They spit a lot of fuel extra for cold starting, which needs plenty spark to get going I think,so hopefully its just your dizzy Not sure if its needed, but I would reset the ECU after putting a cam in (but I automatically pop the battery if a butterfly passes ).
Dave
Not sure if its needed, but I would reset the ECU after putting a cam in (but I automatically pop the battery if a butterfly passes ).Dave
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