Misfire, Please help!
Discussion
The one that is misfiring will be cooler (easy with an infrared thermometer - well worth £30 they can picked up for - a most useful tool
). Then simply check the ignition & injector on that cylinder.
With no thermometer, plastic cable ties, spit, burnt fingers will have to be used to judge.. Easy if there is no combustion at all, not so easy for an intermittent bang IMHO.
Dave
). Then simply check the ignition & injector on that cylinder.With no thermometer, plastic cable ties, spit, burnt fingers will have to be used to judge.. Easy if there is no combustion at all, not so easy for an intermittent bang IMHO.
Dave
A difficult one to answer without specific knowledge of your knowledge of such things and your car - but under the circumstances I'd try the following first. Remove your distributor cap and clean it and dry it. Remove each of the leads and clean and dry. Cloth and hair dryer. You don,nt want WD 40 inside the cap on the distributor inside. Most important; clean each of the points inside the distributor, which are contacted by the rotor arm, and remove any signs of electrolytic corrosion, (- white and becomes green in extreme case, here). I use a small pen knife. Be care not to stab yourself or damage the cap. Report back.
Fat Griff said:
What do you mean by header temperature? All the plugs are dry and but very sooty.
If they are dry and sooty, its likely to be firing, but running rich. The nearest I think for this is failed connections on the mass air flow meter. It will run very rich, and can be driven, but very rough.I had this after being caught in a vile European downpour.
About 6" up from the coil are a couple of diodes in line with the Low Tension leads. They're usually wrapped in crappy old electrical tape but if you unwind it you may find as I did that they are wet and corroded.
If so, clean em up and you're golden.
df
About 6" up from the coil are a couple of diodes in line with the Low Tension leads. They're usually wrapped in crappy old electrical tape but if you unwind it you may find as I did that they are wet and corroded.
If so, clean em up and you're golden.
df
Right!
I pulled all the ignition of the car and left the plugs out for a few days, put it back together with a new coil, rotor arm, dizzy cap, ignition amp and it now ran on all 8! Great! But it didnt want to idle and was really down on power?????!!!!!!!!!! It started to get worse and stall, but then i saw the light! Literally, the main Cat was glowing! Yep thats had it! All the f4rtin about running my baby with a misfire must of burnt the cat out! So the dead cat was replaced and it idled! But was still down on power after 4,000 rpm. My thoughts were now leaning to the AFM (Air Flow Metre) So tried running it with out it connected and guess what! It ran better on its default mode! So sourced a new 1 and she works and goes fine! So just a little bit of advice to any one that might want to Jet Wash there engine, its not a good idea! Thanks for all the tips guys!


I pulled all the ignition of the car and left the plugs out for a few days, put it back together with a new coil, rotor arm, dizzy cap, ignition amp and it now ran on all 8! Great! But it didnt want to idle and was really down on power?????!!!!!!!!!! It started to get worse and stall, but then i saw the light! Literally, the main Cat was glowing! Yep thats had it! All the f4rtin about running my baby with a misfire must of burnt the cat out! So the dead cat was replaced and it idled! But was still down on power after 4,000 rpm. My thoughts were now leaning to the AFM (Air Flow Metre) So tried running it with out it connected and guess what! It ran better on its default mode! So sourced a new 1 and she works and goes fine! So just a little bit of advice to any one that might want to Jet Wash there engine, its not a good idea! Thanks for all the tips guys!


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Don`t like the sound of a "glowing Cat", to me, that sounds like your ignition timing is out. Make sure your distributor is secure at the clamp and it doesn`t spin, its worth checking!