break up grade
Discussion
im a little confused ,i want to change all four discs but dont want to pay for the expensive up grade.what is the best way to handle this ?i can bin the lot and go for bigger discs and calipers or just get better quality pads and ive seen slotted disks for sale . my car is a 96 power steering ,please can you give me some advice . can i purchase bigger discs and calipers to fit my car but which are made for a ford car thanks daz
I'm doing this soon. Although a much written about topic, there is much variation from car to car regarding what Ford parts were used. Best get out and measure the disk depth (from front stud surface to back of disk) and the disk thickness, then look through the Ford specs (Sierra Cosworth, Escort Cosworth, Granada Cosworth) and see which disc matches yours. Mine is a 5-stud Granada redrilled to 4-stud. I just want a mild upgrade, so am going to change the front calipers and discs to the 273mm (ish) disks. Then add Mintex 1144 pads, braided hoses, DOT 5.1 fluid. This would be a significantly worthwhile upgrade without busting the bank and upsetting the front/rear bias. Going for random drilled only discs which IMO look good.
Darren I done a fairly cheap upgrade that had good results on my 96 Griffith, Seasider also done it which means its very easy to do 
See my car profile HERE It gives you all the details and where to get from, Its down the page a bit and not the BIG BRake upgrade i done last year.
HTH
BB
See my car profile HERE It gives you all the details and where to get from, Its down the page a bit and not the BIG BRake upgrade i done last year.
HTH
BB
oops: 
I've decided to go for granada cosworth calipers and drilled (and maybe grooved disks) on the front and then see about the back.
Got the calipers off ebay and am spending the weekend grinding all the cr*p off them before painting them. Going for EBC Redstuff pads but still not decided on which disks. Seen some on ebay but the bloke never responds to my questions. brembo also do some lush drilled ones but they cost a bit!
What disks do you lot recommend? Prefer the look of just drilled.
Got the calipers off ebay and am spending the weekend grinding all the cr*p off them before painting them. Going for EBC Redstuff pads but still not decided on which disks. Seen some on ebay but the bloke never responds to my questions. brembo also do some lush drilled ones but they cost a bit!
What disks do you lot recommend? Prefer the look of just drilled.
Stay away from drilled discs, they are a disaster waiting to happen. Grooved are fine, if you need them. You'll know if you need them because the brakes will seem to fade under moderate to heavy braking but then immediate come back. If you don't need them then plain discs will give you better braking and less noise and wear. I don't know if you're familiar with Red Stuff pads but they're not normally recommended for road use. Green Stuff is OK but absolutely shreds the discs if you use them hard. There are alternatives which are IMO far more suitable for fast road use, and I'd recommend DS2500 or DS2000. Whatever pads you go for, make sure you read and follow the instructions to bed them in properly.
GreenV8S said:
Stay away from drilled discs, they are a disaster waiting to happen. Grooved are fine, if you need them. You'll know if you need them because the brakes will seem to fade under moderate to heavy braking but then immediate come back. If you don't need them then plain discs will give you better braking and less noise and wear. I don't know if you're familiar with Red Stuff pads but they're not normally recommended for road use. Green Stuff is OK but absolutely shreds the discs if you use them hard. There are alternatives which are IMO far more suitable for fast road use, and I'd recommend DS2500 or DS2000. Whatever pads you go for, make sure you read and follow the instructions to bed them in properly.
Value your opinion on this topic. Is it just cheap drilled disks? or a general problem? I dont use the breaks to the point where they overheat...is this overheating what causes the cracking?Cheers, Jon.
The problems with drilled discs don't seem to be specific to any particular make or budget, and there isn't a single make of drilled disc that I'd care to trust. It's not at all unusual for discs to get a slightly crazed surface due to differential expansion/contraction between the different parts of the disc. These tend to concentrate around the holes, I imagine because the holes act as stress raisers and also introduce uneven cooling which increases the stresses locally.
There are several reasons why you might want to use drilled or grooved discs. The most obvious one is looks; they look kind of motorsporty and expensive. If you are trying to use pads with a very high temperature rating then they can be prone to glazing over in cold/damp conditions and it helps if the disc scrapes the top layer off the pads to prevent this. The cost of course is that you get lots of noise, dust and pad wear as a result. If you are suffering from this on a road car then you have the wrong pads. Drilled/grooved discs are also use to disperse the gases that form between the pad and rotor when the brakes are worked hard. You may encounter this problem if the brakes are marginal and driven hard. In that case, either grooves, holes or dimples could be used to disperse the gas. However, holes introduce the potentially lethal cracking issues. If you do need to solve this problem then I would strongly suggest grooved discs rather than drilled. Apart from looks, drilled discs don't have a single advantage over grooved to justify the extra risk they introduce.
I would still say though, that unless you do have problems with the brakes overheating or suffering from gas build-up, you should stick to plain discs. You will get less noise and pad wear, and the brakes will actually work better due to the increased contact area between the pads and disc. It's a shame that drilled/grooved discs are so often seen as a fashion accessory rather than as a solution to a particular problem. I see them as similar to the carbon fibre film that can be stuck over standard parts to pretend they are expensive lightweight items. OK if you're interested in bling, but I don't see the point myself.
There are several reasons why you might want to use drilled or grooved discs. The most obvious one is looks; they look kind of motorsporty and expensive. If you are trying to use pads with a very high temperature rating then they can be prone to glazing over in cold/damp conditions and it helps if the disc scrapes the top layer off the pads to prevent this. The cost of course is that you get lots of noise, dust and pad wear as a result. If you are suffering from this on a road car then you have the wrong pads. Drilled/grooved discs are also use to disperse the gases that form between the pad and rotor when the brakes are worked hard. You may encounter this problem if the brakes are marginal and driven hard. In that case, either grooves, holes or dimples could be used to disperse the gas. However, holes introduce the potentially lethal cracking issues. If you do need to solve this problem then I would strongly suggest grooved discs rather than drilled. Apart from looks, drilled discs don't have a single advantage over grooved to justify the extra risk they introduce.
I would still say though, that unless you do have problems with the brakes overheating or suffering from gas build-up, you should stick to plain discs. You will get less noise and pad wear, and the brakes will actually work better due to the increased contact area between the pads and disc. It's a shame that drilled/grooved discs are so often seen as a fashion accessory rather than as a solution to a particular problem. I see them as similar to the carbon fibre film that can be stuck over standard parts to pretend they are expensive lightweight items. OK if you're interested in bling, but I don't see the point myself.
Here is info on the basic upgrade i did a while ago.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
It has made a HUGE difference. Not at all grabby but nice and powrful & easy to modulate. The only non std bit on mine is a set of braided hoses.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
It has made a HUGE difference. Not at all grabby but nice and powrful & easy to modulate. The only non std bit on mine is a set of braided hoses.
Thanks for the info Peter. Just looking at Corins disks, these are dimpled which gives the same look but without the stress issues??
Corin, Will call you next week to try and rearrange the exhaust manifolds... Would also be interested in talking about your brake upgrade since this is spot on what i am after.
Jon.
Corin, Will call you next week to try and rearrange the exhaust manifolds... Would also be interested in talking about your brake upgrade since this is spot on what i am after.
Jon.
Looks like i'm going down the same route as you Bomber. Got the calipers cleaned up and painted; looking smart. I'll post some before and after photos once finished. However, still not decided on disks. Has anyone seen/tried the EBC Ultimax disks? They seem to offer the best of both worlds.
Appreciate the warning about drilled (i'll heed it but just provoking some chat), but for all the talk about disc failure i've never met or heard form anybody who has suffered from this. If they are so risky with no real advantage over grooves why do all sports bikes and track cars use them?
Appreciate the warning about drilled (i'll heed it but just provoking some chat), but for all the talk about disc failure i've never met or heard form anybody who has suffered from this. If they are so risky with no real advantage over grooves why do all sports bikes and track cars use them?
If you want to buy all new just contact your local motorfactors, these are the companies that supply parts to garages but most are happy to sell direct to the public.
The calipers are from the Granada/Scorpio Cosworth. Approx £90 each new. (mine were £30 the pair from a breakers) Pads to suit.
The discs are from the 85-92 Sierra Cosworth 2WD NOT 4WD Approx £50 the pair new.
If you want to go down the grooved/drilled disc route then you will have to ask if they can get them or look elsewhere. The are roughly twice the cost of the plain ones.
The calipers are from the Granada/Scorpio Cosworth. Approx £90 each new. (mine were £30 the pair from a breakers) Pads to suit.
The discs are from the 85-92 Sierra Cosworth 2WD NOT 4WD Approx £50 the pair new.
If you want to go down the grooved/drilled disc route then you will have to ask if they can get them or look elsewhere. The are roughly twice the cost of the plain ones.
daren parker said:
so can you give me any part numbers for a complete up grade ... break pads . discs calipers and anything else i need cheers
Calipers and carriers from breaker.Discs, pads, caliper paint, and Goodridge lines from Proven Products in Tavistock on 01822 613200, by far the best value (cheapest) for the specific parts.
If you ring them ask for Kev and tell him you want the discs and pads that Corin had.
No Point !! if you get brake fade on standard brakes your not driving correctly .the TVR has enough engine braking to make it feel like brakes. use both together and you will not get brake fade . get good pads. I have freodo premiere in mine..ive never ever had brake fade, and i dont hang about either ! a full set of standard discs cost me 36 quid "new". I have a 94 chim. i have been on the track with it and still no fade !
and that’s me lapping the same times as a 4.5 cerb and just under half a second off a T350.
dont forget guys .. your brakes are no longer stopping a big heavy sierra or granny
But then I suppose they look nicer that granny brakes !
and that’s me lapping the same times as a 4.5 cerb and just under half a second off a T350.
dont forget guys .. your brakes are no longer stopping a big heavy sierra or granny
But then I suppose they look nicer that granny brakes !
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