Progress

[sparkypete]

Well the chassis paint is well under way, this is the picture of the front stripped and ready at the beginning of October.


Re paint with 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of Hammerite smooth red.
Re assemble using new nuts and bolts. I have also replaced all ball joints track rod ends and steering gaiters.


Still a bit to do like the electrics repairing and replacing the fresh air ducts and rad and hoses to fit.

Will have to start the underside and rear end next oh joy.

It really is a shitty job.







Edited thanks to Advice from Barkychoc

Edited by sparkypete on Sunday 28th October 20:19

[V6ish]

wow. Super clean, nice job.

[baggiebird]

Really good effort and it will be worth it

[Barkychoc]

Pete, great job.

Did you get it steam cleaned or something before you started - looks way cleaner than mine.

Chris

Edited by Barkychoc on Sunday 28th October 21:05

[sparkypete]

Thanks Chris

I wondered how to get the image onto the posting, now I know,

All I did was to cover the drive with a cheap tarpolin bought from B&Q for a few quid, donned some cheap water proofs jacked the car up and placed on jacks and blathered the underside in Gunk with a paint brush then wash it all of with a domestic jet wash whilst layed on my back, a bit cold a wet but only to do once and was very effective at removing all the grud.
From there it was a matter of rubbing down and painting.

[Ray S]

Keep up the good work it's all worth it in the finish.Ray

[ketvrin]

Very Nice Pete when its as bright as this it might be tempting to not apply the underseal which really spoils the effect of all of that hard work, especially waxoyl, but dont forget to put it on. I used ACF50 which is clear and very effective (used by bike lads) so you get the protection and it still looks OK when the bonnet goes up...

keep up the good work and keep the photos coming...

K

[hvdweerden]

VERY nice restoration pics , I want to do this as well in winter time !!

ketvrin said:

(used by bike lads)
K

Because I have an Aprilia bike as well I know of a nice test which compares different stuff to prevent rust. Sorry in Dutch but you can look at the pictures. No 1 is untreated nr 2 is butter :-) Knives are hanging outside and are sprayed with salty water once a week.

Strange conclusion was that after 11 weeks ACF50 VERY suddenly stopped working. Of course this is not a scientific test !!

http://www.motorstophelder.nl/anti-corrosie/index....

Br, Han

[Barkychoc]

sparkypete said:

Thanks Chris
I wondered how to get the image onto the posting, now I know,

So now there's no excuse for a lack of pictures!

Keep them coming.....

Chris

Edited by Barkychoc on Monday 29th October 13:14

[sparkypete]

Thanks all

I do intend to seal the chassis with some form of waxoil, may not look as good but at least it should protec it, aty least i will have the photos to porve it opnce looked OK.

Pete

[Road2Ruin]

Just wondering....Is that a prayer mat in front of the Tiv? I know they can be a bit flaky but thats going a bit far.

[ketvrin]

hvdweerden said:

VERY nice restoration pics , I want to do this as well in winter time !!

ketvrin said:

(used by bike lads)
K

Strange conclusion was that after 11 weeks ACF50 VERY suddenly stopped working. Of course this is not a scientific test !!

http://www.motorstophelder.nl/anti-corrosie/index....

Br, Han

Blimey Han I looked at this and it all looked Double Dutch to me I cant imagine why it would stop working after 11 weeks but I suppose nothing lasts forever, all I can say is the coating I put on mine is still ok and is relatively clean... ACF50 is not cheap either ! I did also use Waxoyl in some areas where it could not be seen and where it would provide enough protection (in my opinion)

K

[sparkypete]

Road2Ruin said:

Just wondering....Is that a prayer mat in front of the Tiv? I know they can be a bit flaky but thats going a bit far.

[seb400]

Pete
looks good. I've just had the body off of my S (MOT failure) but didn't get around to replacing the air hoses. I'll be replacing them soon and would be interested to know where you are going to get yours from. Most of those I've found on the web aren't going to be able to stand the under bonnet temperatures.

Steve

[Rockey]

seb400 said:

Pete
looks good. I've just had the body off of my S (MOT failure) but didn't get around to replacing the air hoses. I'll be replacing them soon and would be interested to know where you are going to get yours from. Most of those I've found on the web aren't going to be able to stand the under bonnet temperatures.

Steve

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290112430585&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=019

Or here

http://www.revotecdirect.co.uk/catalogue_airinlet....

[ketvrin]

seb400 said:

I'll be replacing them soon and would be interested to know where you are going to get yours from. Most of those I've found on the web aren't going to be able to stand the under bonnet temperatures.

Steve

I've seen these suggested in the past but have not got around to buying any myself yet... do you think they will stand up to the temps ? has anyone used them ?

https://secure.visav.co.uk/avshop/products.asp?get...

[sparkypete]

I have sourced locally a couple of options, one is a flexible conduit made by Flexicon which is 47.5mm ID and is temp resistant to 120 degrees C this I can get for approx £75.00 for 10 mtrs.
The other is a heat resistant flexi duct which looks exactly the same as the ones fitted by TVR execpt for a yellow strip running along its length, ( this could be hid to the rear of the duct out of sight) this is 50mm ID and comes out at 6.55 per Mtr.

I am just waiting for a sample of the Flexicon tube to see what its like, but to be honest i think Ill go for the 50mm Id stuff.

Ill try to post some pics of the two options when I get the samples.

Anyone any idea how hot it gets under the bonnet, i know its hot but how hot

Edited by sparkypete on Tuesday 30th October 20:14