Discussion
Hi all. I have an issue with the clutch which occurs when the clutch is depressed, even when I have the clutch pressed right to the floor, if I hold it down for a bit, it begins to bite and gradually releases. If I release the clutch and pump it a couple of times its fine again. It feels as if the piston seals have gone, but how do I know if its the master or slave cylinder? I bleed the clutch every few months. Anyone know what the parts are from?
Many Thanks
B
Many Thanks
B
Check to see if there is fluid running down the clutch peddle, if so then i think it is the slave cylinder that has gone,and i think it is off a TR7 but i think it has to be doctored slightly to fit, but i am not 100% about this information.
I am sure someone else will be along shortly to give some more accurate details.
I am sure someone else will be along shortly to give some more accurate details.
It could be either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder.
Have a look under the car on the off side at the bell housing where you will find the slave cylinder.
Check for fluid leaks around it. This very easy to replace and cost about 30 quid.
If no leaks are evident there then the next check is under the dash in the drivers side footwell.
If fluid is leaking in this area then the master cylinder requires replacement which is a bugger of a job and the new cylinder will cost around 100 quid. (plus labour if you get someone else to do it)
If no leaks show up anywhere then you may just have air in the system and will require bleeding.
The master cylinder is under the black plastic plate on the inner wing, drivers side.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Paul.
Have a look under the car on the off side at the bell housing where you will find the slave cylinder.
Check for fluid leaks around it. This very easy to replace and cost about 30 quid.
If no leaks are evident there then the next check is under the dash in the drivers side footwell.
If fluid is leaking in this area then the master cylinder requires replacement which is a bugger of a job and the new cylinder will cost around 100 quid. (plus labour if you get someone else to do it)
If no leaks show up anywhere then you may just have air in the system and will require bleeding.
The master cylinder is under the black plastic plate on the inner wing, drivers side.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Paul.
if you are up to the diy then you can match the clutch master cylinder with one from rally design (measure the bore). swap in your existing pushrod. the fitting in the new master cyl will be the wrong thread size so you can drill it out and tap it correctly or get rally design to make a short length of metal braided hose to replace the TVR cupro nickel (you'll have to send it to them if you are not near Faversham) which cos it is flexible can be threaded through the gap above the pedal box.
cost for me was 24 plus vat for the cyl and a tenner plus vat for the pipe, not inc carriage cos I drove there.
hope this helps
cheers
schmo
cost for me was 24 plus vat for the cyl and a tenner plus vat for the pipe, not inc carriage cos I drove there.
hope this helps
cheers
schmo
Yes - same symptoms. clutch wouldnt disengage - then it worked a while - then it didnt.
Pedal arm was wet with fluid, so it was master cylinder under the black panel in wing.
Wasnt such a difficult job getting it out, bit of fiddling, took it down my local motor shop - one of these old shops which seem to have EVERYTHING to do with brakes and alternators - and the guy put new rubbers in, got it back good as new in an hour £25.
If you're anywhere near Southampton I can give you the name.
I think that original problem was that someone in the past had put grease on the push rod and that it had worked into the cylinder as the fluid had grey grease in it.
Pedal arm was wet with fluid, so it was master cylinder under the black panel in wing.
Wasnt such a difficult job getting it out, bit of fiddling, took it down my local motor shop - one of these old shops which seem to have EVERYTHING to do with brakes and alternators - and the guy put new rubbers in, got it back good as new in an hour £25.
If you're anywhere near Southampton I can give you the name.
I think that original problem was that someone in the past had put grease on the push rod and that it had worked into the cylinder as the fluid had grey grease in it.
Bill_H said:
Yes - same symptoms. clutch wouldnt disengage - then it worked a while - then it didnt.
Pedal arm was wet with fluid, so it was master cylinder under the black panel in wing.
Wasnt such a difficult job getting it out, bit of fiddling, took it down my local motor shop - one of these old shops which seem to have EVERYTHING to do with brakes and alternators - and the guy put new rubbers in, got it back good as new in an hour £25.
If you're anywhere near Southampton I can give you the name.
I think that original problem was that someone in the past had put grease on the push rod and that it had worked into the cylinder as the fluid had grey grease in it.
There is most likely a standard repair kit that contains the relevant seals for the cylinder.Pedal arm was wet with fluid, so it was master cylinder under the black panel in wing.
Wasnt such a difficult job getting it out, bit of fiddling, took it down my local motor shop - one of these old shops which seem to have EVERYTHING to do with brakes and alternators - and the guy put new rubbers in, got it back good as new in an hour £25.
If you're anywhere near Southampton I can give you the name.
I think that original problem was that someone in the past had put grease on the push rod and that it had worked into the cylinder as the fluid had grey grease in it.
Did you ask the guy for the part number of the repair kit he used?
BrianMillar said:
There is most likely a standard repair kit that contains the relevant seals for the cylinder.
Did you ask the guy for the part number of the repair kit he used?
Seal part numbers here:Did you ask the guy for the part number of the repair kit he used?
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Thankyou very much everyone. Yes, I did notice some grey stuff come out when I bled at the slave cylinder last time. I cant find any fluid around the pedal, and its difficult to tell if there is any coming out of the slave, but it must be that. I am fairly handy with the spanners but it will be a dirty job so I think it may be easier to just get a slave cyclinder and get my local indy to install it for me.
Thanks again for all your comments.
Thanks again for all your comments.
Yes, the fluid isnt leaking out. It feels as if its getting past the piston, because when I release the pedal, its all loose for a bit until the fluid leaks back to the other side. Not sure why it doesnt leak out all together but it doesnt seem to. But that could happen with either master or slave couldnt it?
RumbleBee said:
Not sure why it doesnt leak out all together but it doesnt seem to. But that could happen with either master or slave couldnt it?
Slaves usually just leak, Masters normally leak down the pedal but not always.If you read through the link I posted above about the part numbers there are some more clues in there.
RumbleBee said:
Yes, the fluid isnt leaking out. It feels as if its getting past the piston, because when I release the pedal, its all loose for a bit until the fluid leaks back to the other side. Not sure why it doesnt leak out all together but it doesnt seem to. But that could happen with either master or slave couldnt it?
The slave cylinders usually have only one seal so when it leaks the fluid comes out of the cylinder. The master cylinder has more than one seal, first movement of the piston shuts off the inlet hole from the fluid tank then as it gets pushed further down the cylinder it builds pressure from the now fixed volume of fluid. If you have no external leaks (fluid loss) it will most probably be the master cylinder not the slave.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff