Emerald's arrived! Quick question on spark plugs...

[thenick]

Finally the Emerald package arrived today and i'm now itching to get it installed and try it out. Before I do so however, I remembered I need new resistive plugs and extenders to go with the new HT leads. I had a quick browse through the previous thread but just wanted to clarify which combination we actually need.

Was it the the SB05E extenders shown here: http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/graphics/images/plugc...
Coupled with the B7ECS plugs from NGK?

If so I shall go down to partco and pick some up but just wanted to be sure beforehand!

Cheers,

Nick

[Graham]

we just used the same extenders and plugs B7ECS as before

G

[Slatter]

Nick thats what im going to be doing, but it wont be till after christmas ... im just going to have another look through all my stuff now

[thenick]

Thanks man, i'll use the same... I know what you mean about all the stuff! Its amazing to think that one small box could cost so much!

[Slatter]

I know im still not unpacked it properly yet! Gonna wait till u have it all done so if i have any problems i can just ask u !

[eliot]

I think you will find that you need an "R" in that plug number, which indicates resistive.

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/ngkjp...

[thenick]

Yeah, I know but NGK don't do a resistive version of the plugs we need so you have to use resistive plug extenders instead. Having said that, after speaking to a couple of people on here who already have the system, i'm tempted not to bother with resistive extenders as no one else seems to have used them and no problems have been reported!

Slatter, I have got everything out and had a good look but have to wait until I have some new plugs, a dizzy bung and a pipe to replace the AFM before I start installing it. I'm getting Top Gear Automotive to stick on the trig wheel and weld in the wideband lambda and air temp bosses as soon as the welding guy is back to work so hopefully next week and then I can start measuring up the loom and fixing all the connecters on. Then it should be a fairly short job to connect the rest up but i'm sure there will be problems somewhere along the line!

[eliot]

My mate is running coil packs and resistive plugs - so there must be a suitable plug. I'll find out.
Without them, you *may* suffer from ECU resets - but not in all cases.

Eliot.

[thenick]

That'd be great if you could find out what he's running... I'm told the best plugs to use are the B7ECS from NGK but they don't do a resistive version so the SBO5E plug extenders would work with them I would have thought as they do provide resistance. I was thinking I might as well replace the extenders anyway since everything else is getting replaced and since they're only £2 each...!

[350Matt]

I used to use the champion equivalent of the BP7ES and it worked just fine

Matt

[Slatter]

Get a B7ECS plug next to a BP7ES plug and look at the difference. Its alot. They designed these B7ECS plugs for the engine so thats what im using, have been using them for years and never had a problem.

[Graham]

Yeah every engine builder I've spoken to CRE, John Eales etc all say use b7ecs with the RV8 and thats what I've done for the last 5+ years and not had any problems with 2 emeralds, I've just got the normal metal shrouds / extenders

G

[Andy Graham]

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/graphics/images/plugc...

are these actually resisted "extenders" or replacement lead caps though ???

[Midnight Blue]

I've read in several other places that resistance is essential for noise supression wherever you've got a microprocessor anywhere in the system. As far as I'm aware, it doesn't matter if you have either resistive HT leads, extenders or plugs.

The standard metal extenders supplied by TVR have 5k Ohms built in to them, although non-resistor equilavents are available. The bend in them is very useful for clearing the tubular manifolds fitted on the Griffith and Chimera.

I spent a while experimenting with plugs after I binned the old clockwork Lucas distributor and went to coil packs. The original B7ECS with resistive extenders worked very well, lots of people use them, they're a safe bet.

I have also had good results with BR8ES and no extenders. They are one grade cooler to try and reduce any detonation. I've had no problems with oiling yet, my engine gets worked quite hard...

I'd avoid anything starting BP, as the P means it's a projection type. This has a longer nose, projecting further into the combustion chamber. In practical terms that means the electrodes cannot conduct heat away as effectively. They tend to get very hot, that leads to detonation.