Wilts Newbie & Questions
Discussion
Hi Guys,
Picked up the S2 from Andover yesterday and the drive back was amazing...permanent smile. The road has lots of 30's and 60's so accerating out of villages was great, I'm not sure what I like best the sound or the acceration
Check my profile for pics and also see below:
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/spathodus...
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/spathodus...
Checked the car over as thoroughly as possible before purchase and chassis & interior are in really good nick. Some crazing on the 'tip' of the bonnet and a small scratch on the passenger door. I already have some questions:
1) Which fuel is best for the engine, super unleaded or unleaded?
2) What trolley jack should I get? I'm thinking of a Clark jack with a minimum saddle height of 110mm, will this be low enough?
3) How long does it take to clean and paint the chassis with a couple of coats of hammerite? my chassis is down to the bear metal - this is'nt rusty yet but I figure this needs to be sorted as soon as poss. What could I achieve in three days?
4) Is the only solution for crazing a front end respray and what is the likely cost?
To those in the wilts TVRcc, thanks for your advice, if the weather isn't to bad the car and I will see you at the Christmas do - if the weather is bad it'll just be me...
Ralph.
Picked up the S2 from Andover yesterday and the drive back was amazing...permanent smile. The road has lots of 30's and 60's so accerating out of villages was great, I'm not sure what I like best the sound or the acceration
Check my profile for pics and also see below:
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/spathodus...
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/spathodus...
Checked the car over as thoroughly as possible before purchase and chassis & interior are in really good nick. Some crazing on the 'tip' of the bonnet and a small scratch on the passenger door. I already have some questions:
1) Which fuel is best for the engine, super unleaded or unleaded?
2) What trolley jack should I get? I'm thinking of a Clark jack with a minimum saddle height of 110mm, will this be low enough?
3) How long does it take to clean and paint the chassis with a couple of coats of hammerite? my chassis is down to the bear metal - this is'nt rusty yet but I figure this needs to be sorted as soon as poss. What could I achieve in three days?
4) Is the only solution for crazing a front end respray and what is the likely cost?
To those in the wilts TVRcc, thanks for your advice, if the weather isn't to bad the car and I will see you at the Christmas do - if the weather is bad it'll just be me...
Ralph.
Spathodus77 said:
Hi Guys,
Picked up the S2 from Andover yesterday and the drive back was amazing...permanent smile. The road has lots of 30's and 60's so accerating out of villages was great, I'm not sure what I like best the sound or the acceration
Check my profile for pics and also see below:
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/spathodus...
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/spathodus...
Checked the car over as thoroughly as possible before purchase and chassis & interior are in really good nick. Some crazing on the 'tip' of the bonnet and a small scratch on the passenger door. I already have some questions:
1) Which fuel is best for the engine, super unleaded or unleaded?
2) What trolley jack should I get? I'm thinking of a Clark jack with a minimum saddle height of 110mm, will this be low enough?
3) How long does it take to clean and paint the chassis with a couple of coats of hammerite? my chassis is down to the bear metal - this is'nt rusty yet but I figure this needs to be sorted as soon as poss. What could I achieve in three days?
4) Is the only solution for crazing a front end respray and what is the likely cost?
To those in the wilts TVRcc, thanks for your advice, if the weather isn't to bad the car and I will see you at the Christmas do - if the weather is bad it'll just be me...
Ralph.
Hey there.Picked up the S2 from Andover yesterday and the drive back was amazing...permanent smile. The road has lots of 30's and 60's so accerating out of villages was great, I'm not sure what I like best the sound or the acceration
Check my profile for pics and also see below:
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/spathodus...
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/spathodus...
Checked the car over as thoroughly as possible before purchase and chassis & interior are in really good nick. Some crazing on the 'tip' of the bonnet and a small scratch on the passenger door. I already have some questions:
1) Which fuel is best for the engine, super unleaded or unleaded?
2) What trolley jack should I get? I'm thinking of a Clark jack with a minimum saddle height of 110mm, will this be low enough?
3) How long does it take to clean and paint the chassis with a couple of coats of hammerite? my chassis is down to the bear metal - this is'nt rusty yet but I figure this needs to be sorted as soon as poss. What could I achieve in three days?
4) Is the only solution for crazing a front end respray and what is the likely cost?
To those in the wilts TVRcc, thanks for your advice, if the weather isn't to bad the car and I will see you at the Christmas do - if the weather is bad it'll just be me...
Ralph.
Your car look nice and tidy.
in answer to your questions..
1)I always use the fuel with the highest octane rating, so I go for super every time.
2)Cant comment on trolley jack, your best bet I think is just to buy 2 axel stands and the siscor jack to get it up in the air. I paid £16 for ther pair from Halfrauds
3)If You are hard at it you could probably do it in 3 days. Some people do it over months. You need to wire brush it first to remove the loose crud, hammerite and then wax oyl for a belt and braces job. (just done mine but being lazy someone else did it) cost £120 and I wax oyled myself after they painted. dont forget to get inside the trailing arms and try and get on top of the outriggers if you can (I heated my waxoyl up and sprayed it upwards for the fiddly parts, or use the pump)
4)Not a lot other than respay I'm afraid for crazing.
Have fun
Grant
Welcome, good choice of car!!!!
Car will run on normal unleaded, as long as the ignition timing is correct. To dthat properly you would need a gunson fault code reader to put the engine into service mode. There are threads on that already. A good standard trlley jack will probably be low enog, but get he lowest stanard one you can. Only jack under tha main long chassis tubes not the outriggers. Get thebest axle stands you can, you will need them!! Also useful is some pieces of solid wood eg 4" x 4" or 6" x 3" as additional support. Waxoil can be warmed by putting the can in a bucket of warm water. Scraping off paint and painting will take longer than 3 days I feel, bt you can do it in stages.
Enjoy, the people on here are a good crowd and can usually help with queries
Car will run on normal unleaded, as long as the ignition timing is correct. To dthat properly you would need a gunson fault code reader to put the engine into service mode. There are threads on that already. A good standard trlley jack will probably be low enog, but get he lowest stanard one you can. Only jack under tha main long chassis tubes not the outriggers. Get thebest axle stands you can, you will need them!! Also useful is some pieces of solid wood eg 4" x 4" or 6" x 3" as additional support. Waxoil can be warmed by putting the can in a bucket of warm water. Scraping off paint and painting will take longer than 3 days I feel, bt you can do it in stages.
Enjoy, the people on here are a good crowd and can usually help with queries
Thanks.
I have some more questions:
5) How far do I have to go with cleaning the metal; am I trying to just move all the loose debris or am I trying to make the chassis gleam before I apply the hammerite?
6) The car cruises nicely on A-roads but at motorway speed a new 'tapping' type sound enters the cabin. I assume this is the tappets and is a feature of the car?
7) If I change gear and release the clutch sharply there is a 'donk' from the rear. At the time I assumed this was the spare wheel moving about in the boot, but, now I'm wondering about the UJs on the propshaft. If I am gentle with the clutch there is no sound.
8) Why did my pics input into this thread as links not as pictures?
Thanks again.
Ralph.
I have some more questions:
5) How far do I have to go with cleaning the metal; am I trying to just move all the loose debris or am I trying to make the chassis gleam before I apply the hammerite?
6) The car cruises nicely on A-roads but at motorway speed a new 'tapping' type sound enters the cabin. I assume this is the tappets and is a feature of the car?
7) If I change gear and release the clutch sharply there is a 'donk' from the rear. At the time I assumed this was the spare wheel moving about in the boot, but, now I'm wondering about the UJs on the propshaft. If I am gentle with the clutch there is no sound.
8) Why did my pics input into this thread as links not as pictures?
Thanks again.
Ralph.
Regards the jack - the Clarke CTJ 2LR is the one I have and it works well.
I doubt that you'd hear a noisy tappet at motorway speed - I'd certainly never hear them on mine. Can't think what it would be and I think it is one of those noises that needs to be experienced to trace. One for the TVRCC local meet?
The chassis doesn't need to be shiny but all loose flakes and loose rust must be removed. When I do rusty bits I remove as much rust as possible (wire brush and/or wire wheel in a drill) then give it a good coat or two of of Hamerite Kurust. Follow this with a couple of coats of Hamerite paint and then under body waxoyl (the black stuff) on the outriggers and other vulnerable chassis parts and you should be ok for a long while. Don't forget to treat the insides of the trailing arms (do it asap before winter road salts and rain get in) and also treat the chassis rail that the trailing arm attaches to. The brackets that attach the trailing arms to the chassis rail form nice mud traps and it is easy for corrosion to start here and turn into a big job. This area is very vulnerable but doesn't get as much mention as the outriggers.
Edit: And I forgot to say - don't worry about the crazing at this stage unless you like your motor to look mega shiny. Some of us drive cars with scruffy bodywork and it does has its advantages - especially when some muppet manages to leave bumper marks down half the length of the car. Fortunately being GRP there was no creasing of panels and only a small scratch left. That joined all the other war wounds over the last 16+ years.
I doubt that you'd hear a noisy tappet at motorway speed - I'd certainly never hear them on mine. Can't think what it would be and I think it is one of those noises that needs to be experienced to trace. One for the TVRCC local meet?
The chassis doesn't need to be shiny but all loose flakes and loose rust must be removed. When I do rusty bits I remove as much rust as possible (wire brush and/or wire wheel in a drill) then give it a good coat or two of of Hamerite Kurust. Follow this with a couple of coats of Hamerite paint and then under body waxoyl (the black stuff) on the outriggers and other vulnerable chassis parts and you should be ok for a long while. Don't forget to treat the insides of the trailing arms (do it asap before winter road salts and rain get in) and also treat the chassis rail that the trailing arm attaches to. The brackets that attach the trailing arms to the chassis rail form nice mud traps and it is easy for corrosion to start here and turn into a big job. This area is very vulnerable but doesn't get as much mention as the outriggers.
Edit: And I forgot to say - don't worry about the crazing at this stage unless you like your motor to look mega shiny. Some of us drive cars with scruffy bodywork and it does has its advantages - especially when some muppet manages to leave bumper marks down half the length of the car. Fortunately being GRP there was no creasing of panels and only a small scratch left. That joined all the other war wounds over the last 16+ years.
Edited by Jed-S on Sunday 18th November 19:27
Jed-S said:
Regards the jack - the Clarke CTJ 2LR is the one I have and it works well.
I have this one too and can recommend it.As regards the crack at the front - it may be a gel crack which will need a bit more work - spraying it won't hide it for long it will come back through.
Go to your local library and see if you can get a book on fibreglass bodywork.
Depends how fastidious you are - I'd leave it and get on with enjoying the car - it isn't going to rust!
Chris
Hi Ralph and welcome...
Some of your questions will be answered by looking at these sites. TVRGIT's site has an index for the diary as well so you can see what job you are looking for. and have a giggle too...
I'm sure you will get answers to most problems you will come across, I hope they help if you havent already found them...
http://www.tvrgit.com/
http://www.parkersteve.dsl.pipex.com/sparts.html
http://www.tvrsseries.com/
and theres a few photos of my chassis refurb on the link on my profile too.
I find most noises seem to be cured by taking the roof down and driving fast
K
Some of your questions will be answered by looking at these sites. TVRGIT's site has an index for the diary as well so you can see what job you are looking for. and have a giggle too...
I'm sure you will get answers to most problems you will come across, I hope they help if you havent already found them...
http://www.tvrgit.com/
http://www.parkersteve.dsl.pipex.com/sparts.html
http://www.tvrsseries.com/
and theres a few photos of my chassis refurb on the link on my profile too.
I find most noises seem to be cured by taking the roof down and driving fast
K
Welcome...
Glad to see another S in WILTSHIRE! Did I see you at the Wilts meet at the Vine Tree at Norton near Malmesbury, back at the end of the so called summer? Spoke to someone who was in the market for an 'S' then. Mine was the blue one with all the shiny alloy 'bits' inside. If you wish to meet up, drop me a line. If you need some local contacts for the motor again drop me a line too. Not sure if I will make the Christmas meeting of the Wilts TVR Club, Enjoy the motor
Best wishes.
Paul
Glad to see another S in WILTSHIRE! Did I see you at the Wilts meet at the Vine Tree at Norton near Malmesbury, back at the end of the so called summer? Spoke to someone who was in the market for an 'S' then. Mine was the blue one with all the shiny alloy 'bits' inside. If you wish to meet up, drop me a line. If you need some local contacts for the motor again drop me a line too. Not sure if I will make the Christmas meeting of the Wilts TVR Club, Enjoy the motor
Best wishes.
Paul
Spathodus77 said:
at motorway speed a new 'tapping' type sound enters the cabin. now I'm wondering about the UJs on the propshaft.
Tappets would be engine speed related. UJ's etc would be road speed. Check in various gears. Before blaming the UJ's it might be useful to check the wheel nuts are done up tight. 
Hi Ralph
Glad to see you've found one and taken the plunge at last!
Before worrying about UJ's check that the exhaust isn't knocking on the chassis. I've had this happen in the past.
Front end resprays seem to start at approx £300 and can go up to vastly more depending on who you go to. A fibreglass specialist would be better as they will have more experience of dealing with crazing.
I waxoil the chassis on my S2 annually. Some of it is missing its original coating now but I have only applied hammerite to a few areas (front edge of ourtriggers and repaired trailing arm). Instead I work on the assumption that you can never apply too much waxoil too often!.
Before waxoiling the chassis it is steam cleaned, left to dry for a week or so (or until dry) in the garage, thoroughly checked over and wire bushed in any areas showing signs of rust. I have the good fortune to obtain occasional access to a car lift on the weekends so thats when the waxoil is applied, it normally takes around half a day to steam clean and half a day to waxoil(that is check over, wire brush and waxoil).
I would have thought thet in 3 days you could get reasonable results, I expect the limiting factor will be how much physical pain you are prepared to go through to get the job done! i.e. axle stands, cold floors and limited acess = aching muscles and bones you never thought you had!
Sainsbury's in Chippenham still sells LRP - which is what I normally run on. However I haven't noticed any great changes using Super unleaded or unleaded. It just depends whats available.
Anyway I hope you enjoy your new purchase, I'm sure you won't regret it! After 4 years I certainly don't!
Cheers
Tom
Glad to see you've found one and taken the plunge at last!
Before worrying about UJ's check that the exhaust isn't knocking on the chassis. I've had this happen in the past.
Front end resprays seem to start at approx £300 and can go up to vastly more depending on who you go to. A fibreglass specialist would be better as they will have more experience of dealing with crazing.
I waxoil the chassis on my S2 annually. Some of it is missing its original coating now but I have only applied hammerite to a few areas (front edge of ourtriggers and repaired trailing arm). Instead I work on the assumption that you can never apply too much waxoil too often!.
Before waxoiling the chassis it is steam cleaned, left to dry for a week or so (or until dry) in the garage, thoroughly checked over and wire bushed in any areas showing signs of rust. I have the good fortune to obtain occasional access to a car lift on the weekends so thats when the waxoil is applied, it normally takes around half a day to steam clean and half a day to waxoil(that is check over, wire brush and waxoil).
I would have thought thet in 3 days you could get reasonable results, I expect the limiting factor will be how much physical pain you are prepared to go through to get the job done! i.e. axle stands, cold floors and limited acess = aching muscles and bones you never thought you had!
Sainsbury's in Chippenham still sells LRP - which is what I normally run on. However I haven't noticed any great changes using Super unleaded or unleaded. It just depends whats available.
Anyway I hope you enjoy your new purchase, I'm sure you won't regret it! After 4 years I certainly don't!
Cheers
Tom
Thanks the suggestions. I'II certainly be jacking the rear of the car up at the weekend and giving the items at the back end a check over including the rear wheel nuts...
Also if the weather is reasonable I'II try and get out and do some experimentation in various gears, speeds and revs.
Ralph.
Also if the weather is reasonable I'II try and get out and do some experimentation in various gears, speeds and revs.
Ralph.
Welcome Ralph,car looks good ,you'll get loads of help here from different people good bunch, good advice,.Still get a kick taking mine out. Ray sGassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff