Chassis Paint....would it work?!
Discussion
Once again, its almost that time of year when dont use the car (its been 3 weeks now) as the roads are salty, and its rubbish to drive in the wet anyway!!
I vowed to clean and paint my chassis each year, last year (through much arguement from someone on here) i undersealed the outriggers which worked really well! Horrible stuff but worked well!
Would this do as ronseal says and 'Do Exactly What It Says On The Tin???'
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=1&dept=1
I vowed to clean and paint my chassis each year, last year (through much arguement from someone on here) i undersealed the outriggers which worked really well! Horrible stuff but worked well!
Would this do as ronseal says and 'Do Exactly What It Says On The Tin???'
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=1&dept=1
Matt
The POR stuff is excellent .. and so is underseal and waxoil and even neat oil .. but all have their place.
The TVR chassis by the way it's constructed is a pretty one and painting underseal on it looks ugly.
I've even walked away from buying a wedge that had underseal on the chassis because of what it might have been hiding !
The way I approach this is :
1) Let the car dry for weeks - so the chassis is bone dry (easy in the winter lay-up period).
2) Remove loose dirt with a brush / old rags
3) Remove any loose paint - here I use a variety of tools - angle grinder with a brush attachment / wire brush / scrapers and screw drivers..
4) Clean all the 'good' painted area's - here you can use petrol / parafin but I usually finish with T-Cut as it leaves the surgace clean.
5) Re-paint any bare metal - I usually use Hammerite smooth but POR 15 is just as good if not better but it's expensive and not availavle in as many colours.
6) Second coat of paint.
7) Waxoil into the area behind the outrigger where you cannot reach.
Just a final note that you can remove the underseal with petrol.
The POR stuff is excellent .. and so is underseal and waxoil and even neat oil .. but all have their place.
The TVR chassis by the way it's constructed is a pretty one and painting underseal on it looks ugly.
I've even walked away from buying a wedge that had underseal on the chassis because of what it might have been hiding !
The way I approach this is :
1) Let the car dry for weeks - so the chassis is bone dry (easy in the winter lay-up period).
2) Remove loose dirt with a brush / old rags
3) Remove any loose paint - here I use a variety of tools - angle grinder with a brush attachment / wire brush / scrapers and screw drivers..
4) Clean all the 'good' painted area's - here you can use petrol / parafin but I usually finish with T-Cut as it leaves the surgace clean.
5) Re-paint any bare metal - I usually use Hammerite smooth but POR 15 is just as good if not better but it's expensive and not availavle in as many colours.
6) Second coat of paint.
7) Waxoil into the area behind the outrigger where you cannot reach.
Just a final note that you can remove the underseal with petrol.
Edited by rev-erend on Thursday 22 November 10:01
Don't know Matt...
I'm after some paint to do my chassis too
I guess that you could be very simplistic and say that rust is basically the formation of iron oxides on the metal. You need 3 things for rust to happen - water, oxygen and electrolyte (metal - chassis/Outriggers etc). By taking any one out of the equation, you won't get rust. If my understanding is correct, ANY paint that you paint your outriggers with should work as your stopping moisture and oxygen getting to the metal - ok so were not talking magnolia emulsion that you paint your walls with but I guess any Hammerite type paint would suffice, as long as the surface is well covered. I have also heard the "Red Lead" paint is excellent although I don't know what it is
From what I have read previously, your best off completly rubbing back any corrosion you have and treating with a rust treater before you paint. The reasons for this are still unclear to me. Just don't strip all your chassis and the protective coating where it is still in tact
As for cleaning up and bits of existing rust, I can recommend one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/115MM-RUST-REMOVER-GRINDER-D...
Its basically a wheel to go on a grinder but the grinding material is like a plastic version of wire wool - sililar in texture to a plastic zip you may have on a coat for example? It will remove all paint, rust and filler etc but won't touch metal.
Hope this helps mate. If you want to practice first, your more than welcome to do my chassis
I'm after some paint to do my chassis too
I guess that you could be very simplistic and say that rust is basically the formation of iron oxides on the metal. You need 3 things for rust to happen - water, oxygen and electrolyte (metal - chassis/Outriggers etc). By taking any one out of the equation, you won't get rust. If my understanding is correct, ANY paint that you paint your outriggers with should work as your stopping moisture and oxygen getting to the metal - ok so were not talking magnolia emulsion that you paint your walls with but I guess any Hammerite type paint would suffice, as long as the surface is well covered. I have also heard the "Red Lead" paint is excellent although I don't know what it is
From what I have read previously, your best off completly rubbing back any corrosion you have and treating with a rust treater before you paint. The reasons for this are still unclear to me. Just don't strip all your chassis and the protective coating where it is still in tact
As for cleaning up and bits of existing rust, I can recommend one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/115MM-RUST-REMOVER-GRINDER-D...
Its basically a wheel to go on a grinder but the grinding material is like a plastic version of wire wool - sililar in texture to a plastic zip you may have on a coat for example? It will remove all paint, rust and filler etc but won't touch metal.
Hope this helps mate. If you want to practice first, your more than welcome to do my chassis
Why do people insist on doing chassis work in the winter when its cold and condensation on cold chassis rails is virtually a cert.
Give the chassis a good clean and let it dry in "dry air" when your less likely to have condensation (like the middle of a warm summer).
then get the car up on axel stands, wire brush off, grind / prep and then paint. same goes for waxoiling chassis tubes.. why do people do it in winter when the ambient temp is a good 10 - 15 degrees lower than summer .... let the waxoil flow though as much of the chassis tubes as possible.
Unless ofcourse you have a heated, dry garage with enough warm air circulation to allow the chassis tubes to dry completely....
Ok, I know it may be a long wait for a dry spell in our summers, but I would rather be under the car in warm weather, than freezing my knackers off in the middle of winter (and I have access to a heated garage!!!)
Give the chassis a good clean and let it dry in "dry air" when your less likely to have condensation (like the middle of a warm summer).
then get the car up on axel stands, wire brush off, grind / prep and then paint. same goes for waxoiling chassis tubes.. why do people do it in winter when the ambient temp is a good 10 - 15 degrees lower than summer .... let the waxoil flow though as much of the chassis tubes as possible.
Unless ofcourse you have a heated, dry garage with enough warm air circulation to allow the chassis tubes to dry completely....
Ok, I know it may be a long wait for a dry spell in our summers, but I would rather be under the car in warm weather, than freezing my knackers off in the middle of winter (and I have access to a heated garage!!!)
Hi Matt,
When I bought my car in bits the previous owner had stripped the chassis back to bare metal and repainted it completely in POR15 (If I remember correctly he said 7 coats of the stuff). All I can say mate is that when I came to start putting it back together again the paint started to chip off. I decided that I could not risk leaving the chassis like this and so started to strip off the paint by hand - it quite literally came off in sheets. In POR15's defence I dont know what preparation the guy had done although it appeared to have some kind of grey primer under it and at least the steel was still shiny under it!
Shaun
When I bought my car in bits the previous owner had stripped the chassis back to bare metal and repainted it completely in POR15 (If I remember correctly he said 7 coats of the stuff). All I can say mate is that when I came to start putting it back together again the paint started to chip off. I decided that I could not risk leaving the chassis like this and so started to strip off the paint by hand - it quite literally came off in sheets. In POR15's defence I dont know what preparation the guy had done although it appeared to have some kind of grey primer under it and at least the steel was still shiny under it!
Shaun
jvaughan said:
Why do people insist on doing chassis work in the winter when its cold and condensation on cold chassis rails is virtually a cert.
Give the chassis a good clean and let it dry in "dry air" when your less likely to have condensation (like the middle of a warm summer).
then get the car up on axel stands, wire brush off, grind / prep and then paint. same goes for waxoiling chassis tubes.. why do people do it in winter when the ambient temp is a good 10 - 15 degrees lower than summer .... let the waxoil flow though as much of the chassis tubes as possible.
Unless ofcourse you have a heated, dry garage with enough warm air circulation to allow the chassis tubes to dry completely....
Ok, I know it may be a long wait for a dry spell in our summers, but I would rather be under the car in warm weather, than freezing my knackers off in the middle of winter (and I have access to a heated garage!!!)
Because POR15 is a moisture curing paintGive the chassis a good clean and let it dry in "dry air" when your less likely to have condensation (like the middle of a warm summer).
then get the car up on axel stands, wire brush off, grind / prep and then paint. same goes for waxoiling chassis tubes.. why do people do it in winter when the ambient temp is a good 10 - 15 degrees lower than summer .... let the waxoil flow though as much of the chassis tubes as possible.
Unless ofcourse you have a heated, dry garage with enough warm air circulation to allow the chassis tubes to dry completely....
Ok, I know it may be a long wait for a dry spell in our summers, but I would rather be under the car in warm weather, than freezing my knackers off in the middle of winter (and I have access to a heated garage!!!)
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