Is there a bodge fix for carb icing?
Discussion
My mk2 golf 1.6 suffers from carb icing in the winter resulting in having to stop every 10 miles or so for it to de-ice. Its reportedly a common problem with the model because of the carb used, and the best fix is to replace it for a weber item.
However, this car only has to last me another week and isnt worth spending the money on for a replacement carb. With this in mind are there any bodge fixes which might make journeys a little easier? frustrating having it cut out all the time.
All warm air hoses / air cleaner assembly are in place and set to correct winter settings.
However, this car only has to last me another week and isnt worth spending the money on for a replacement carb. With this in mind are there any bodge fixes which might make journeys a little easier? frustrating having it cut out all the time.
All warm air hoses / air cleaner assembly are in place and set to correct winter settings.
Blocking off the rad reduces air flow through the engine bay and warms it up so the carb will be in a warmer environment, it may also mean that the air being drawn in may be warmer.
Don't know the layout on that engine, where does the filter draw from? Is it exhaust heated? Are the heater coolant pipes accessible? Simply strapping a hot hose onto the outside of the carb might be enough to cure it.
Don't know the layout on that engine, where does the filter draw from? Is it exhaust heated? Are the heater coolant pipes accessible? Simply strapping a hot hose onto the outside of the carb might be enough to cure it.
If you cant duct hot air....
Long journeys seem to be worst. If short journeys. Go out start the car, and let it idle for 10 mins or so before setting off. Switch it off, and allow the heat to soak through everywhere.
Then drive off. It can still freeze up but if you allow a good bit of heat to soak through the inlet manifold etc first, then it will help.
Failing that....I had heard about some pills you can get, mainly aimed at motorbikes to stop this happening. ( add them to fuel ) Although TBH, Ive no idea how they work, or if they work....or if they exist.
Is the intake manifold heated in any way ? electrically or by coolant ? Could it be ?
Long journeys seem to be worst. If short journeys. Go out start the car, and let it idle for 10 mins or so before setting off. Switch it off, and allow the heat to soak through everywhere.
Then drive off. It can still freeze up but if you allow a good bit of heat to soak through the inlet manifold etc first, then it will help.
Failing that....I had heard about some pills you can get, mainly aimed at motorbikes to stop this happening. ( add them to fuel ) Although TBH, Ive no idea how they work, or if they work....or if they exist.
Is the intake manifold heated in any way ? electrically or by coolant ? Could it be ?
Thanks for the explanation + advice.
The engine is an old non crossflow thing. The air is drawn into the engine bay via a ducting near the front grille, via a junction where hot air is mixed in (ducted from a heat shield over the exhaust manifold), then over the top of the engine to the car which sits atop the inlet manifold, which in turn sits over the exhaust manifold.
The original design calls for the carb to be electrically heated, and this aided by a coolant fed automatic choke is intended to keep it all working, but over time the auto choke gets gummed up with crud and the electrical circuit stops working.
I'll try rerouting the air intake to behind the radiator and if that doesnt help block off part of the radiator.
The engine is an old non crossflow thing. The air is drawn into the engine bay via a ducting near the front grille, via a junction where hot air is mixed in (ducted from a heat shield over the exhaust manifold), then over the top of the engine to the car which sits atop the inlet manifold, which in turn sits over the exhaust manifold.
The original design calls for the carb to be electrically heated, and this aided by a coolant fed automatic choke is intended to keep it all working, but over time the auto choke gets gummed up with crud and the electrical circuit stops working.
I'll try rerouting the air intake to behind the radiator and if that doesnt help block off part of the radiator.
Holst said:
From memory our old golf ducted air from near the manifold so that it was warmer.
We had a Lada used to do that. When you flick the switch on the air inlet it'd take air from just over the exhaust manifold. Sounds like he's already set that option although theres the option to jerry rig soemthing possibly.hmmmmm, i had this fault with a polo once.....look down the carb.....with the throttle open......Does it look like a hedgehog in there......
reason i ask is some of the golfs and polo's had electrically heated manifolds......they worked well, but the thermo switch and relay wear out.....you'll need to check theses if you have one....and if your unsure, do away with the orig thermo switch, and pop a switch in the dash for the heater
hope this helps....
reason i ask is some of the golfs and polo's had electrically heated manifolds......they worked well, but the thermo switch and relay wear out.....you'll need to check theses if you have one....and if your unsure, do away with the orig thermo switch, and pop a switch in the dash for the heater
hope this helps....
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