Lowering springs/kits for S1 Elise
Discussion
Only thing iv come accross like that is this
http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page...
Not sure if it would improve the handling or make it worse. Someone may have more feedback on them.
http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page...
Not sure if it would improve the handling or make it worse. Someone may have more feedback on them.
Plenty of S1 options that I know of. Most common is to upgrade to S2 Bilstein and get brackets to lower the car . In addition Lotus also supply an LSS adjustable height damper/ spring set for the S1.
Spax, Gaz and Avo also sell suspension kits for the S1 which have adjustable ride height.
A little heard of option is Protech. They make an Elise set which I'll be fitting in the near future to upgrade from my Konis. A few pax laps at Bedford with Orange D convinced me of them and Piooly has them fitted too (in fact he was the first person I know of with them) and really rates them over the LSS kit which his S160 would have orignially had.
All of the above options are around the £500 - £600 mark except for LSS which I believe is nearer £900.
More expensive options are Nitron one way adjustables (£1250), JRZ (about £1500) and Ohlins (£dunno but lots!).
The best kit for you will depend on your use: for general road use and occasional track days the best fit and forget solution for the S1 is reckoned to be the Bilsteins.
Spax, Gaz and Avo also sell suspension kits for the S1 which have adjustable ride height.
A little heard of option is Protech. They make an Elise set which I'll be fitting in the near future to upgrade from my Konis. A few pax laps at Bedford with Orange D convinced me of them and Piooly has them fitted too (in fact he was the first person I know of with them) and really rates them over the LSS kit which his S160 would have orignially had.
All of the above options are around the £500 - £600 mark except for LSS which I believe is nearer £900.
More expensive options are Nitron one way adjustables (£1250), JRZ (about £1500) and Ohlins (£dunno but lots!).
The best kit for you will depend on your use: for general road use and occasional track days the best fit and forget solution for the S1 is reckoned to be the Bilsteins.
Thanks for the replies..
My S1 has only got 19,000 miles on the clock, and the suspension doesnt feel like it particularly needs refreshing. But the Bilstien kit is something that ive definately considered fitting in the future, but I cant justify the expense yet, as my suspension feels to be in ok working order.
My S1 has only got 19,000 miles on the clock, and the suspension doesnt feel like it particularly needs refreshing. But the Bilstien kit is something that ive definately considered fitting in the future, but I cant justify the expense yet, as my suspension feels to be in ok working order.
Just lowering the car could cause issues with the tyres rubbing against wheel arch liners. The roll stiffness of the Elise is only OK as it is really set up for road use so lowering it with these brackets may cause other issues. It depends on your use and how hard you drive the thing. If you are getting serious roll angles in the bends, I wouldn't recommend them.
Lowering the car will improve handling marginally due to the lower CofG, but it doesn't stop there, the roll centres will have changed. With the original spring rates, the roll steer may not be ideal either leading to worsened grip levels.
It'll look good though
Lowering the car will improve handling marginally due to the lower CofG, but it doesn't stop there, the roll centres will have changed. With the original spring rates, the roll steer may not be ideal either leading to worsened grip levels.
It'll look good though

Mark B said:
Just lowering the car could cause issues with the tyres rubbing against wheel arch liners. The roll stiffness of the Elise is only OK as it is really set up for road use so lowering it with these brackets may cause other issues. It depends on your use and how hard you drive the thing. If you are getting serious roll angles in the bends, I wouldn't recommend them.
Lowering the car will improve handling marginally due to the lower CofG, but it doesn't stop there, the roll centres will have changed. With the original spring rates, the roll steer may not be ideal either leading to worsened grip levels.
It'll look good though
Mark,Lowering the car will improve handling marginally due to the lower CofG, but it doesn't stop there, the roll centres will have changed. With the original spring rates, the roll steer may not be ideal either leading to worsened grip levels.
It'll look good though

Are you qualified to discuss suspension related matters?

Paul RN said:
Mark B said:
Just lowering the car could cause issues with the tyres rubbing against wheel arch liners.
Depending how low you go you may also need to raise the steering rack.Edited by Mark B on Saturday 24th November 07:57
Mark B said:
Paul RN said:
Mark B said:
Just lowering the car could cause issues with the tyres rubbing against wheel arch liners.
Depending how low you go you may also need to raise the steering rack.I was agreeing with you Paul, if the rack height isn't adjusted the toe curve through bump and rebound will be altered to much ruining the grip levels achieved as the tyre slip angle increases..
Geo is a good idea too, the Techwiki on SELOC has some recommendations for 135, 160 and 340R... Although from my reckoning, the camber angles is nothing more than the amount achieved from lowering the car.... i.e. standard height set, then the car is lowered (increasing neg camber) and the toe corrected....
Geo is a good idea too, the Techwiki on SELOC has some recommendations for 135, 160 and 340R... Although from my reckoning, the camber angles is nothing more than the amount achieved from lowering the car.... i.e. standard height set, then the car is lowered (increasing neg camber) and the toe corrected....
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