Checking a chassis with no access to ramps
Checking a chassis with no access to ramps
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anonymous-user

Original Poster:

84 months

Sunday 25th November 2007
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I've found a Chimaera I'm about to purchase smile and know a lot of the Chimaera chassis is tucked away and difficult to view. But if I don't have access to any ramps what do you recommend is the best way to check the chassis out? It has just gone through it's MOT which I suppose is a good sign that there isn't any rot.

Cheers!

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Sunday 25th November 2007
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I don't think chassis paranoia is quite as necessary these days... The outrigger repairs seem to be more common, hence cheaper and at a price less than a respray should not be giving you sleepless nights. A cursory glance underneath to make sure nothing is bent is probably most important. Fresh Waxoyl seems to cover a multitude of sins so unless you start really poking and banging, at which stage most sellers will be preparing to rip your head off, you will not really be able to tell. Generally just looking that the chassis & outriggers are smooth without over painted/waxed pitts of rust is sufficient IMHO. Rust tends to spread so you should have an idea of how much is in the hidden corners from looking at areas adjacent to them. Beware that you are unlikely to find a chassis with no rust tho wink

Dave

thenick

4,027 posts

242 months

Sunday 25th November 2007
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Get a torch and a long flathead screwdriver and get as far under the car as you can. Scrape off a bit of crap around the most dirty looking bits of the chassis and see if there's any rust/flakey paint/bubbles under the paint/holes etc. Particular places to check are the corners of the outriggers at the back of the front wheel arches (scrape any stones caught between the body and chassis tubes away and look for flakey rust), also check the length of the outriggers and wishbones as a start. A lot of the time it will be worse than it looks and surface rust and a bit of flakey paint is easily cured with some jenolite, a wire brush and a fresh coat of your favorite chassis protection paint! Unless there are holes in the outriggers or massive amounts of flakey rust, i'd say you're alright... Though I would give it a good going over on axle stands with the wheels off when you've bought it to get rid of any rust and general crud and renew the chassis protection around the wheel arches at least for peace of mind.

gadgit

971 posts

297 months

Sunday 25th November 2007
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Depends where the MOT was done! If a TVR specialist, you stand half a chance.

If you are paying £10k+ for a car you would expect everything to be in good order, and that includes the outriggers. Don't buy one in this price bracket until you either, Take someone who knows what they are doing to have a good look at the car, or take it to a TVR specialist and have it examined £30 or £40 should cover this. It could just be the best £40 you ever spent.

If it goes wrong, it still going to be a lot to put it right, don't be lulled into thinking that these things are cheap to run, there not if you buy the wrong one.

Getting a good one from the start is half the battle. Mine was really nice when I checked it. Engine, gearbox, clutch, brakes, suspension bushes all done and main chassis is great. Only to find the dreaded outriggers needed doing (£1400) and I thought I knew what I was looking at.

So be very carefull, take your time, have it looked at, buy the right one first time, there are plenty out there at the moment.

Just noticed, you had an S2 so you should have some idea of what to look for, but the outriggers on the S2 are easier to see (which means they are clearer from the body, and last better that a Chimeara)

Do you know anyone who will go with you to look at it with you??
Is it a car on pistonheads, let us help you!!!



Edited by gadgit on Sunday 25th November 17:22

Cider Andy

1,889 posts

255 months

Sunday 25th November 2007
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Do you have a trolley jack and/or a pair of axle stands? If not AND you see yourself owning a TVR in the near future AND you fancy doing some jobs on it yourself, buy them and take them with you for the viewing, along with a torch.

Don't take it as read that because it has a new MoT that the chassis will be sound. I recently looked under a car where one outrigger was badly holed and the corner plate had completely rusted away from the tubes, the tiny remains of it still bolted to the tub. I'm told it had a new MoT certificate. This isn't to say that the MoT certificate was 'dodgy': it may be down to the tester's interpretation of how much rust is acceptable on which parts of the chassis.

ATG

23,828 posts

302 months

Sunday 25th November 2007
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Getting an inspection from a mechanic is a good idea, unless you confident you know what you;re looking for. Having said that, even just using the standard scissor jack to lift the car with a wheel removed will give you a pretty good idea of the state of the suspension and chassis. Without removing the body, you're not going to be able to get a proper look at the outriggers anyway. I wouldn't be worried about having a quick look with the car just up on the scissor jack so long as it was well footed on flat ground. Wouldn't do the lump hammer and screwdriver rust detection technique like that, but I doubt the current owner will let you try that one anyway.

EdT

5,239 posts

314 months

Monday 26th November 2007
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and stick your head under the bonnet too.. gives you a good overall feel as to the state of the chassis - can see a lot of the car from there!

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

84 months

Monday 26th November 2007
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Thanks for the replies. I think I'll jack the car up with the scissor jack, remove the front wheels and have a good look. I checked the outriggers the first time I viewed the car and they seem pretty solid.

I had a wedge prior to the S2 and it had a bit of chassis rot to the rear diff cradle so I pretty much know what I'm looking for. It's just a shame that so much is hidden from view on the Chimaera chassis. I have been advised in the past that the chassis's can rot from the top, so even if the bottom is solid, the top might not be (personally I don't quite believe this as I'd of thought the outriggers will take much more punishment/dirt)....

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Monday 26th November 2007
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Having explored the depths of mine I would say the real danger spots are around the manifolds and above the diff, without stripping rather a lot of major items it is pretty hard to investigate thoroughly though.

A couple of planks to drive wheels up on to may make an inspection a little easier.

Dave