Rear ARB Drop Links
Discussion
RedCabbage said:
Is there a known source for these other than Steve Heath's rose jointed versions.
I am currenly looking at modding some Nissan primera ones(proper balljoints with polly bushed ends),dont fancy rose jointed clonkers much,going to do similar for front,on my list of things to do.Edited by That Daddy on Saturday 1st December 20:49
spend said:
Do you mean like people who sell TVR parts?
There was a plan for TVR to make boats at one time, but I assume you're thinking of places that sell TVR car parts?I don't see anything wrong with using spherical bearings as long as they are a decent grade and ideally protected from the elements. Mine have been on the car for 100K+ miles of all year use and showing no signs of wear.
There are some reviews on www.tvrextras.co.uk.
As for clonking rose joints. They don't if correctly fitted.
The common cause of clonking is the mistaken impression that the mounting bolt is the bearing and should rotate. It isn't and should be tight enough to clamp the central part of the rose joint. If the bolt isn't tight, it can move inside the bearing and clonk.
As for clonking rose joints. They don't if correctly fitted.
The common cause of clonking is the mistaken impression that the mounting bolt is the bearing and should rotate. It isn't and should be tight enough to clamp the central part of the rose joint. If the bolt isn't tight, it can move inside the bearing and clonk.
Don't quote me on the exact price for the original parts, but they have always been pretty expensive, so the rose joints are a no-brainer as a replacement IMHO. Peter even used to post what bits to buy to make them up yourself before ready made kits were available IIRC (may be thats why the PH search engine is restricted to 2 years
)
Dave
)Dave
eff eff said:
Leven Technologies do a really well engineered version
Still uses the bushes at the top though which means that it has the same design flaw that the original design has. With the bushes, the top of the link can only move by deforming the rubber bush but this is firmly bolted to the plate. As the ARB link starts to move, it tries to twist the mounting plate off the wishbone. The bushes deform and prevent any roll correction force from being applied as the force is taken up in deforming the bush rather than correcting the roll. Eventually, the bush is compressed and for the link to move any more, it has to twist the mounting plate. This often results in a cracked and broken mounting plate or a bent drop link.
All the anti roll force ends up trying to destroy the mounting plate instead of being applied to correcting the roll. That is why I have a second rose joint at the top that fully allows the movement.
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