Discussion
A couple of weeks ago, I took my car to Rustmaster in Herts for rust treatment. I'd seen a very positive review in Octane magazine a few months back and thought I'd give it a go.
All I can say is - what a great service and what a great result!
Michael (the Rustmaster) really knows his stuff and is incredibly passionate and knowledgeable about rust treatments (may not make the best topic of conversation in the pub, but great when it comes to protecting your pride & joy!).
He uses the Waxoyl Professional Products. For the chassis he uses Waxoyl Hardwax, which as the name suggests, dries to a hard finish. I understand that he's the only person in the UK who is able to use these products and they should not be confused with the Waxoyl products you can buy in Halfords.
I know that people on PH often say that if you want rust protection done properly, do it yourself. However, I would say take it to Mike. His attention to detail is amazing. He's a perfectionist and wouldn't let me go until he'd checked every square millimeter of the chassis... twice! Honestly, this was a seriously thorough job and he obviously takes great pride in his work.
The best bit is, while the treatment I'd had done by my local garage needed repeating every other year, the Hardwax is good for 5 years.
It cost me just under £300 and I'd consider that the best £300 I've spent on the Tiv this year
I couldn't recommend Rustmaster highly enough. If your chassis is due for some rust treatment, do yourself a favour and give Mike a call...
Here are some after-treatment shots for you:
All I can say is - what a great service and what a great result!
Michael (the Rustmaster) really knows his stuff and is incredibly passionate and knowledgeable about rust treatments (may not make the best topic of conversation in the pub, but great when it comes to protecting your pride & joy!).
He uses the Waxoyl Professional Products. For the chassis he uses Waxoyl Hardwax, which as the name suggests, dries to a hard finish. I understand that he's the only person in the UK who is able to use these products and they should not be confused with the Waxoyl products you can buy in Halfords.
I know that people on PH often say that if you want rust protection done properly, do it yourself. However, I would say take it to Mike. His attention to detail is amazing. He's a perfectionist and wouldn't let me go until he'd checked every square millimeter of the chassis... twice! Honestly, this was a seriously thorough job and he obviously takes great pride in his work.
The best bit is, while the treatment I'd had done by my local garage needed repeating every other year, the Hardwax is good for 5 years.
It cost me just under £300 and I'd consider that the best £300 I've spent on the Tiv this year
I couldn't recommend Rustmaster highly enough. If your chassis is due for some rust treatment, do yourself a favour and give Mike a call...
Here are some after-treatment shots for you:
Edited by Nuggs on Monday 3rd December 13:02
Well it'll stop the rust.
Guess it's a trade off, there appears to be wax everywhere, if it was my car I'd be thinking about how easy it was going to be to work on the car now, state of the shocks, etc. etc. but if you don't work on your car yourself then it's of no consequence.
I hope that you cleaned the brake disks before driving home?
Tim
Guess it's a trade off, there appears to be wax everywhere, if it was my car I'd be thinking about how easy it was going to be to work on the car now, state of the shocks, etc. etc. but if you don't work on your car yourself then it's of no consequence.
I hope that you cleaned the brake disks before driving home?
Tim
Jeez - what a mess! You'll have no idea what's happening under there until it falls apart.
Much better to clean metal down, remove rust and use products such as Zinga and POR15. If you want to use rust proofing liquids use clear Tectyl - at least then you can see what happening each year and touch up where necessary.
It's made an awful mess of your suspension too.
OscarT
Much better to clean metal down, remove rust and use products such as Zinga and POR15. If you want to use rust proofing liquids use clear Tectyl - at least then you can see what happening each year and touch up where necessary.
It's made an awful mess of your suspension too.
OscarT
Edited by OscarT on Sunday 2nd December 16:58
Blimey that took a while to load! do you reckon you could use bigger pictures next time? 
They certainly do coat it well. When I got mine done at racing green I think I was expecting it to look more like this. I think they went for the being able to see whats going on approach.
I can see the arguements for being able to see what is going on, also for not coating parts that don't rust
. But wouldn't a well rubbed down and thickly coated chassis be better protected than one which is well rubbed down but less coated to allow you to keep an eye on things?
jj
They certainly do coat it well. When I got mine done at racing green I think I was expecting it to look more like this. I think they went for the being able to see whats going on approach.
I can see the arguements for being able to see what is going on, also for not coating parts that don't rust
. But wouldn't a well rubbed down and thickly coated chassis be better protected than one which is well rubbed down but less coated to allow you to keep an eye on things?jj
The problem with this method is that it is spray coating. There is no satisfactory way to get any of that coating to the most vulnerable parts like the tops of the outriggers. The bits you can see look well coated though I share the concern regarding over spray on suspension, brake hoses etc. It's the bits you can't see where corrosion is the greatest problem yet by this process get the least attention.
Sorry to give a negative post, I guess it's because I'm a DIY chassis maintainer and I know how hard it is to get protective coatings on the more vulnerable parts.
In the end your chassis will be better for having this work done. There are however better ways to do it.
Sorry to give a negative post, I guess it's because I'm a DIY chassis maintainer and I know how hard it is to get protective coatings on the more vulnerable parts.
In the end your chassis will be better for having this work done. There are however better ways to do it.
You mean to say you actually paid somebody to do that to your pride and joy! Being in the process of refurbing my chassis properly,its not the parts of the chassis you can see that rots away, its the parts you can`t. From what i can see on the photos none of these parts have been touched.
Can he turn iron into gold..
Guess not - worth asking.
Steel by it's very nature rusts but treatments like this I'm sure help but people will be aghast (weird word) because we all like to see a nice looking chassis (how sad are we exactly..).
Quite frankly - the best solution is to clean off any flakes and repaint area's that are seen and to use products like this on the more hidden area's that will become a rust trap. The hidden side of the outrigger and some tubes up at the top of the diff being prime examples.
Guess not - worth asking.
Steel by it's very nature rusts but treatments like this I'm sure help but people will be aghast (weird word) because we all like to see a nice looking chassis (how sad are we exactly..).
Quite frankly - the best solution is to clean off any flakes and repaint area's that are seen and to use products like this on the more hidden area's that will become a rust trap. The hidden side of the outrigger and some tubes up at the top of the diff being prime examples.
Nuggs said:
This thread is not going well if your name is Nuggs...
Can you remove the after as well? If my car had come back looking like that I would be weeping I've deleted the 'before' shots to reduce the loading time for this page
I would have thought that for £300 they would have masked off anything that doesn't want/need to be blasted with gunk.
rev-erend said:
Nuggs said:
This thread is not going well if your name is Nuggs...
Stop feeling sorry for ya self..I've deleted the 'before' shots to reduce the loading time for this page
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