Changing a Battery...how hard can it be ?!
Discussion
The main problem is replacing the box and getting the bolts to fit. So mark the position of the box before you take it out. Or if you've already done that, replace the box while it's empty, use a dowel (pencil) to roughly align, replace bolts, then in best felt pen mark position of box.
So
1) Mark position
2) Cut through seals under car
3) Undo bolts from under car.
4) Remove box.
5) Drill out (sic) the pop rivetts holding down lid.
6) Replace battery
7) replace pop rivetts with self tappers
8) Replace box in marked position.
9) Cuss and Swear that bolts don't fit.
10) repeat 1-9 until bolts do fit.
11) Tighten bolts.
12) Reapply seallant to bolts.
Consider adding jump lead set while the battery is accessable!
So
1) Mark position
2) Cut through seals under car
3) Undo bolts from under car.
4) Remove box.
5) Drill out (sic) the pop rivetts holding down lid.
6) Replace battery
7) replace pop rivetts with self tappers
8) Replace box in marked position.
9) Cuss and Swear that bolts don't fit.
10) repeat 1-9 until bolts do fit.
11) Tighten bolts.
12) Reapply seallant to bolts.
Consider adding jump lead set while the battery is accessable!
Go to www.tvrbooks.co.uk and the FAQ section. The download chapter from the Bible is on the battery and how to change it.
Edited by shpub on Wednesday 5th December 19:19
Has anyone "redesigned" this? After taking the box out, could you cut off the front panel of it altogether, and remount the box without the panel and battery. Then slide the battery into place and use a standard battery brace mounted from the back of the box to the front to hold the battery in place. Or is this idea complete bo
ocks?
ocks? Mines an early Chim, I had to convert the old battery up in the air, weight considerations + never seen that step in the wheelarch without tyre scrapes..
I clamped tie down straps to the floor just under the front of the battery and to the wheelarch behind the battery at each side. They also hold the cover down when pulled tight, without need for rivets or screws, as well as being able to secure cables... Holds the battery very firm & quite easy to get in out. The only tweak I had to do was drill the rivets on the ECU to get that stupid bracket off so that it fitted snugly to the side, I can also use the straps to slide the battery L/R a bit so the ecu is nicely wedged.
Dave
I clamped tie down straps to the floor just under the front of the battery and to the wheelarch behind the battery at each side. They also hold the cover down when pulled tight, without need for rivets or screws, as well as being able to secure cables... Holds the battery very firm & quite easy to get in out. The only tweak I had to do was drill the rivets on the ECU to get that stupid bracket off so that it fitted snugly to the side, I can also use the straps to slide the battery L/R a bit so the ecu is nicely wedged.
Dave
I managed to change my battery OK, and made sure of its dimensions so the new one would fit in the box. The only minor issue was not being able to get the bolts back as the alignment wasn't perfect, but it didn't really matter - the battery is hardly going to fly out of the window. Then you just shove the assorted lumps, widgets and spaghetti back into the space on top 
I took my battery out over the weekend to gain access to my dead recirculate motor and flap. When I saw the bolts under the car had no sealant on them I knew I was in for a rough ride. Turns out the bolts had seized in the copper anchors in the base of the battery tray. The glue holding the anchors in place had been sheared allowing them to rotate and not allowing the bolts to undo.
Lots of swearing and grunting later I managed to get the box out, reglued the copper anchors back into the box and refitted the battery. Liberal amounts of sealant added to bolts
In short - not fun lol
Lots of swearing and grunting later I managed to get the box out, reglued the copper anchors back into the box and refitted the battery. Liberal amounts of sealant added to bolts
In short - not fun lol
Had mine in and out a few times for various reasons but when it came to replacing the battery I just couldn't be bothered. Thankfully I have a Halfords calcium battery which have a very long warrenty (around 4/5 years I think). I just took it down to my local branch, told the guy I wanted a battery and alternator test which he did and found my battery to be rubbish but the alternator was in fine condition. Then with me standing over him telling him checking he was't doing it wrong or forcing anything he removed the battery as per my instructions, replaced it with a brand new uprated version (the biggest one he could fit in the box) and replaced it all very neatly (I gave him a hand relocating the box over the bolt holes but it wasn't very difficult). Started it up and it burst into life with a hell of a lot more urgency than it has since I bought it and now runs great even when left for a few days on a cold start!
Total cost: Nothing!
Total cost: Nothing!
Hello,if you go to the "Griffith Pages" there's a jolly decent guy from Norway who has fitted the battery in the boot.I think there are pictures of the installation.Regards,Dave. Forgot to mention if you are buying a new battery take the fibre glass box with you to check the battery fits in.As you are not far away if you struggle I'll change it for you.
Edited by mrcosmos on Thursday 6th December 18:29
Does anyone have a tube coming off their battery to allow the gasses, when charging, to escape out through the near side wheel arch?
I have a clear plastic tube running from the side of my battery to a hole in the wheel arch, which i guess is for the gasses to escape whilst charging.
My original battery had this, but need to put a new battery in. Does eveyone just leave their battery to vent inside the car? Or is mine the odd one out!
Cheers Ads.
I have a clear plastic tube running from the side of my battery to a hole in the wheel arch, which i guess is for the gasses to escape whilst charging.
My original battery had this, but need to put a new battery in. Does eveyone just leave their battery to vent inside the car? Or is mine the odd one out!
Cheers Ads.
Mine has the tube and if you spec the correct battery you’ll find one side blanked the other open, just swap the blank over as required. You may also find though the tube doesn’t fit properly, I binned the adaptor thingy by mistake, fixed with a bit of silicone sealant and another bit of tube.
Cheers,
Simon.
Cheers,
Simon.
Simon.b said:
Mine has the tube and if you spec the correct battery you’ll find one side blanked the other open, just swap the blank over as required. You may also find though the tube doesn’t fit properly, I binned the adaptor thingy by mistake, fixed with a bit of silicone sealant and another bit of tube.
Cheers,
Simon.
Cheers for the adviseCheers,
Simon.
By the right battery do you mean the type 072? or is there something else I need to look out for?
Cheers Ads
Simpo Two said:
The only minor issue was not being able to get the bolts back as the alignment wasn't perfect, but it didn't really matter - the battery is hardly going to fly out of the window.
Well no, but you could end up slowly shearing the shorter of the two main battery leads.This is (ahem) from experience and trying to work out why I was getting intermittent power from the battery, before the cable was worn to zilch, was an utter pain. That heavy, boxed battery slides and jolts considerably without those floor bolts- and think where it could end up in the event of an accident- just being held by 2 terminal rings that are not intended to hold it in situ.
Sorry to sound all 'negative' but I'm merely hoping others will avoid the problem I had.
Incidently, by far the easiest way to realign the box on the floor is to do it with the battery removed and use a small screwdriver under the floor to locate the bolt holes in it
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