New member and owner
Discussion
Hi all, got my first TVR last week and I'm having a few problems with it (I know... they all do that sir..
)
Car is a 1998 Cerbera 4.5
I was having a look for a manual and to no avail, I know that there was a manual share recently and I was wondering if anyone could do me one?
Few problems that I'm encountering are...
Fuel gauge sticks at 1/4, above that, it's fine
Speedo doesn't work
Brake's squeal ( mainly OSR) done the usual copperslip and rough the pads up, helped, but only for 10 miles
Front end feels vague, will have to see what happens when rear shock has been replaced (need a top wishbone bush and bolt as these have seized), how much play should there be in the rack? is it a ford item? or TVR only?
handbrake needs adjustment
I'm sure there are more problems too!!
Finally can anyone help with the top wishbone bushes and bolts, also need 4 rear pad springs and possibly a red/mag pipe drivers floor over carpet
Thanks in advance
Adam
)Car is a 1998 Cerbera 4.5
I was having a look for a manual and to no avail, I know that there was a manual share recently and I was wondering if anyone could do me one?
Few problems that I'm encountering are...
Fuel gauge sticks at 1/4, above that, it's fine
Speedo doesn't work
Brake's squeal ( mainly OSR) done the usual copperslip and rough the pads up, helped, but only for 10 miles
Front end feels vague, will have to see what happens when rear shock has been replaced (need a top wishbone bush and bolt as these have seized), how much play should there be in the rack? is it a ford item? or TVR only?
handbrake needs adjustment
I'm sure there are more problems too!!
Finally can anyone help with the top wishbone bushes and bolts, also need 4 rear pad springs and possibly a red/mag pipe drivers floor over carpet
Thanks in advance
Adam
Hi and welcome to the club 
Can't help with Cerbera specific queries, but copperslip is not the best thing for brake squeel, useful link here;
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Can't help with Cerbera specific queries, but copperslip is not the best thing for brake squeel, useful link here;
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I recommend you get over to X works service in Kirkham. Paul Forest will give it the once over so although it may cost to get the niggles corrected you will be guarranteed an honest and first class service.
These guys have serviced my TVR from the time they worked in the factory service department.
Heath Briggs 07969454703
Paul Forest 07912936505
These guys have serviced my TVR from the time they worked in the factory service department.
Heath Briggs 07969454703
Paul Forest 07912936505
Help below questions...
Fuel gauge sticks at 1/4, above that, it's fine
Check the sender, sounds like it's sticking?
Speedo doesn't work
The speedo is read off an air gap transducer - resetting the gap often helps.
Brake's squeal ( mainly OSR) done the usual copperslip and rough the pads up, helped, but only for 10 miles
Have you thoroughly cleaned the brakes and dismissed all residue and build up? Don't use too much copperslip.
Front end feels vague, will have to see what happens when rear shock has been replaced (need a top wishbone bush and bolt as these have seized), how much play should there be in the rack? is it a ford item? or TVR only?
They suffer from play in the wishbone bushes, go for polyurathane on all eight and try again. The rack is bespoke but don't often need replacing unless the seals go.
handbrake needs adjustment
They're all crap sir!
I'm sure there are more problems too!!
Hope this may help - Corin
Fuel gauge sticks at 1/4, above that, it's fine
Check the sender, sounds like it's sticking?
Speedo doesn't work
The speedo is read off an air gap transducer - resetting the gap often helps.
Brake's squeal ( mainly OSR) done the usual copperslip and rough the pads up, helped, but only for 10 miles
Have you thoroughly cleaned the brakes and dismissed all residue and build up? Don't use too much copperslip.
Front end feels vague, will have to see what happens when rear shock has been replaced (need a top wishbone bush and bolt as these have seized), how much play should there be in the rack? is it a ford item? or TVR only?
They suffer from play in the wishbone bushes, go for polyurathane on all eight and try again. The rack is bespoke but don't often need replacing unless the seals go.
handbrake needs adjustment
They're all crap sir!

I'm sure there are more problems too!!
Hope this may help - Corin
Thanks for the replies, I'll be doing the work myself, have a few project cars and enjoy doing it all myself from building engines to the odd job
Brakes have been given a thorough overhaul, cleaned with brake cleaner and a brush on all surfaces , all the build up is gone and a light smear of copper grease, the pads roughed up with a bit of wet and dry.
The car has been stood for a couple of years after the previous owner had just had a full engine rebuild as the oil pump packed up and killed it
Cheers, I'll have a good read of the articles!
The handbrake doesn't hold the car on the last click on my slight incline of my drive, so hopefully something in the manual!
Brakes have been given a thorough overhaul, cleaned with brake cleaner and a brush on all surfaces , all the build up is gone and a light smear of copper grease, the pads roughed up with a bit of wet and dry.
The car has been stood for a couple of years after the previous owner had just had a full engine rebuild as the oil pump packed up and killed it

Cheers, I'll have a good read of the articles!
The handbrake doesn't hold the car on the last click on my slight incline of my drive, so hopefully something in the manual!
Hand brake works on little drums on the rear (Granada Cosworth?) Adjust/clean these and all should be fine for a couple of weeks, then you'll have to do it again.
Vagueness at the front could (arguably) be the front splitter missing - angled bit of metal running accross under the chin of the car. I say arguably because some say it makes a difference and others say it doesn't.
Vagueness at the front could (arguably) be the front splitter missing - angled bit of metal running accross under the chin of the car. I say arguably because some say it makes a difference and others say it doesn't.
RA500 said:
Hi all, got my first TVR last week and I'm having a few problems with it (I know... they all do that sir..
)
Car is a 1998 Cerbera 4.5
I was having a look for a manual and to no avail, I know that there was a manual share recently and I was wondering if anyone could do me one?
Few problems that I'm encountering are...
Fuel gauge sticks at 1/4, above that, it's fine
Welcome!
)Car is a 1998 Cerbera 4.5
I was having a look for a manual and to no avail, I know that there was a manual share recently and I was wondering if anyone could do me one?
Few problems that I'm encountering are...
Fuel gauge sticks at 1/4, above that, it's fine
I wouldn't let it drop much below 1/4 anyway. I've ran out of fuel with the guage just under 1/4.
RA500 said:
Speedo doesn't work
Sorry cant help with this one.RA500 said:
Brake's squeal ( mainly OSR) done the usual copperslip and rough the pads up, helped, but only for 10 miles
Clever Trevor sell shimms - basically sticky foam pads that attach to the brake pads. All round they'll cost you £25, but they seem to work, although I still get a faint squeal sometimes but nothing like it use to be like.RA500 said:
Front end feels vague, will have to see what happens when rear shock has been replaced (need a top wishbone bush and bolt as these have seized), how much play should there be in the rack? is it a ford item? or TVR only?
Mine was like this until I replaced all of the suspension which was shot. I also opted for new drop links - you can get them from Steve Heath Engineering £80 for a pair delivered. They're good quality with rose joints. Bad tyres can effect the feel as can incorrect tyre pressures. I have 18" Toyos all round on 24 psi. Some swear that a geo setup helps - about £150.RA500 said:
handbrake needs adjustment
They are crap and never rely on it especially after a long run as the discs expand. You apply the handbrake and after a while the discs contract the handbrake lets go and off goes your PAJ. Always leave it in gear and always start her up with your clutch depressed to help minimise loading on the starter motor. The handbrake handle is good for holding your takeway safe!Happy motoring
I'll give the handbrake a try, I find it strange that other manufacturers use the same set up and work fine (like my Impreza), must just be a TVR thing 
I've tried the workshop manual links, but they don't seem to work for me, need to find out about the air gap sensor settings etc, so again, if anyone could help, that would be great!
Off to the race of champions now
Adam

I've tried the workshop manual links, but they don't seem to work for me, need to find out about the air gap sensor settings etc, so again, if anyone could help, that would be great!
Off to the race of champions now

Adam
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