Chassis paint and wax

[sparkypete]

Update time from when i last posted pics of the chassis front end which i started to renovate first, Well i finally completed the chassis re paint and Waxoil. Jeezs what an arse of a job, all the chassis was rubbed down with any loose coating removed and rust taken back to clean metal, I found the Black and Decker power file to be perfect for the job.
I applied 2 coats of No1 rust beater and 3 coats of hammerite red smooth, each coat taking approx 6 hours each to do.
Waxoil was next, what a bugger of a job. I left the tin in the a bucket of hot water to soften it, then used the jumbo spray to spray the chassis, with the extension pipe to get onto the out riggers, the problem being if you stop for a minute the wax sets in the pipes and jumbo spray , you then have to immerse into hot water to flush it through prior to starting again. Tell you what, I wont rust this winter with the amount that i got on me.
I know a lot has been said on PH regarding various chassis treatments, but i found my choice easy to locate and apply.

By the way i used ACF 50 for the engine bay area.


A few pics;























Well thats that , its back on with the exhaust and bonnet fill the rad and hopefully it will all start up again.

Then to start the carpet replacement,

Pete.

Edited by sparkypete on Saturday 15th December 19:55

[Barkychoc]

Great Job.

[jonjo]

Good job - tell us more about the ACF50 - I've heard motorcyclists talking about it - any photos of it?

jonjo

[sparkypete]

Thanks for the comments, ACF 50 is an aerosol, when you spray it on the chassis you lightly rub it around with a cloth, it leaves a fine layer of clear liquid on it which is self healing and helps inhibit rust. It does not go on as thick as waxoil and therefore looks better when you lift the bonnet. From the engine back i used normal clear waxoil.

I got the ACF50 from ebay for about £12.00.

Ill post a pic of the tin later

Pete

[petclub]

You've worked hard on that and it looks great!

[ketvrin]

Looks great Pete well done

I agree on the ACF50 - mine has stayed in place from last winter when I did my chassis.

K

[Barkychoc]

Bet you were tempted to start it without the exhaust connected

[sparkypete]

Chris

Luckily for me the exhaust was very easy to remove and refit, the manifolds bolts where all loose and came out easily.

Its all refit now and hopefully tonight I will fill the rad and with luck start her up, Ive been waiting to hear the beast again since the end of September.

Thanks again for the comments, but I have to say I am glad is done.

[markbigears]

Pete, looking at the pics, did your chaassis really need all that? looks in fantastic condition pre treatment?

[ketvrin]

Finishing touches...

see the little access holes in the fuel tank bracket ? I squirted as much ACF50 and waxoyl as I could get in there and then plugged the holes with blank rubber grommets to stop the shyte from getting back in. You can buy packs from halfrauds for about a quid a pair...

and the vertical bracket for the bonnet hinge - again I filled it up to stop the rot and then plugged the ends with those square plastic plugs you see used on office furniture... works a treat.

worth the extra effort to protect the result of all that hard work

[Barkychoc]

sparkypete said:

Chris

Luckily for me the exhaust was very easy to remove and refit, the manifolds bolts where all loose and came out easily.

Its all refit now and hopefully tonight I will fill the rad and with luck start her up, Ive been waiting to hear the beast again since the end of September.

Thanks again for the comments, but I have to say I am glad is done.

Make sure you bleed the radiatior a number of times - mine probably took half a dozen goes to get all the air out.

[sparkypete]

Mark

The pics above are either of it in brown rust beater primer or new red smooth hammerite, or covered with a mist of waxoyl, there isnt a pic of the chassis before. There was a lot of flaking plastic coating and surface rust and very little in the way of chassis protection. If you'd have seen it you'd know it needed doing, although i am quite please with the general condition of the metal work.IMHO it was a job that needing doing and is now done. Well until i work up to the body off in a year or two.

Chris, I got her running last night with no problems and managed to bleed what i think is most of the air out and eventually it sat happily at 75C ( I have a digital temp display plumped in )with the fans cutting it and out.
I ran it again tonight and managed to expel some more air, so hopefully thats ok.

I have now started on the rose jointed bonnet hinges as per Clarenceboddiger post dated 24th Feb.

Edited by sparkypete on Tuesday 18th December 20:57

[Ray S]

Pete you missed a bit . Hard work but worth it..Ray

Edited by Ray S on Wednesday 19th December 08:17

[Longers]

[sparkypete]

Thanks for the comments Guys, I tell you what I dont envy Trickjohns body off works, though as i suppose its inevitable we will all have to go through it eventually.

By the way anybody any tips for the bonnet refit, i have just about sorted the new hinges and hopefully I will be ready for its refit this Saturday, subject to a clear head after the traditional “last day at work piss up”

Pete

[Barkychoc]

Get the bonnet roughly in position with the front sitting on some old carpet.
Fit the bonnet catch and put a cable tie round it so it doesn't come off.
Pack under the front edge of the bonnet with some old cloth (curtains in my case) until its roughly in line.
Once you're pretty close I didn't find it that hard to get the bolts back in, the bonnet isn't that heavy to move around with the bonnet stay taking the weight.

Chris

[sparkypete]

Cheers Chris