Starting chassis work

[trickjohn]

Hi all,

Now that the body if off - thanks to the help from memebers of this site and the fantastic how to do links- I have started a new thread / chapter. I have holes in my rear arm suspension arm (the 2.250 dia tubes) and the bracket, I am trying to connect the some photos - there are lots more.

[kenpage]

hi just a quick thought dont cut the trailing arm bolts to get them off they are a right git to get hold of

[Barkychoc]

Those tubes look a bit rough - but the rest of the outriggers from what I can see look pretty good.
Are the tubes corroded where the mounts are - could you cut the tubes just after (outboard) of the mounts then weld on new tube, or is it pretty serious where the mounts themselves are ?

I assume you realised its had an engine swap at some point - the Cosworth engine was never standard, its a good engine capable of some serious power with a bit of tweaking.

Bet your girlfiend loves the car body in front of the house propped on tyres........

Chris

Edited by Barkychoc on Monday 17th December 22:51

[trickjohn]

Hi all,

At this stage the chassis is very good apart from the rear suspension beams - heavily corroded - will find out more after cleaing - there are holes in one bracket. I will be measuring with a portable 12 ft,7 axis coordinate measuring machine (accuracy 0.1mm)and reverse engineering the beam and bracket areas over the xmas hols in Catia V5 (CAD), prior to cutting / only removing the trailing arms to probe the bracket holes and faces - the only thing that is important is the 2 symmetry points between the trailing arms and the associated bracket face geometry relative to the chassis frame, I have devised a method on how to do it with the completed reversed CAD model - this will allow me to design any jigs that maybe required (i have a few toolmakers who owe me favours) - and if need be I can replace the whole lot. I am confident that it could be done very accuratly. My girlfriend will be at work and will keep me out of the pub and save me a small fortune - which I will be indeed spending very shortly.

As for the engine grunt, the car has been decatted - I have got BOB (the later granada cams) to go in, 15 to 20 more bhp, there is a collapsed hydraulic tapped that needs sorting - so may as well do the cams at the same time- with vauxhall injectors apparantly they give you faster acceleration. The top end of the engine will be painted / coated whilst apart.

Please dont mention about the body in the front garden - it has been completely covered and the girlfriend thinks its her xmas present - perhaps a boat or something.

Best Regards

[endoscool]

trickjohn said:

Hi all,

I will be measuring with a portable 12 ft,7 axis coordinate measuring machine (accuracy 0.1mm)and reverse engineering the beam and bracket areas over the xmas hols in Catia V5 (CAD), prior to cutting / only removing the trailing arms to probe the bracket holes and faces - the only thing that is important is the 2 symmetry points between the trailing arms and the associated bracket face geometry relative to the chassis frame,

Sounds like some fantastic kit that you have access to - although reference back to the chassis frame locally only and the assumption about symmetry - going to be a bit revealing about Blackpool tolerances I don't doubt! How much time you got - why not include the front wishbone mountings too?! 0.1mm scary! On second thoughts......

[ketvrin]

Hey Sean, I can see you are planning a pretty comprehensive refurb here and probably dont need to say this, but... while you have the body off you should replace the engine mounts as they are a pig to do with the body on.

Nice photos, keep a photo diary and share it with us on something like photobucket or myphotoalbum (add the link to your profile as I did) as they become a great record of what you have done and a reference and inspiration (perhaps) to others.

I look forward to seeing you progress and hope boxing day is not too tough when SWMBO doesnt get her boat

K

[trickjohn]

Hi all - I will not be offended for advise on anything, I did not know about the engine mounts - S3's are new to me so I am just starting to learn (and a jolly good lesson to - its got an MOT until April). Its not really a comprehensive rebuild as I want it back on the road April, but will endevour to do the best job in that time - chassis is a priority - 10 hours to undo / remove the shell and I genuinely did not know what to do and was guided by peeps on this site and links - I did not even want to take the body off and without encouragement / bulling by MEP12345, Spludge and Jed-s I would have lost a lot of time - the welder came around today and we have made our plan - both rear suspension arms will be cut in half leaving the inner brackets, talk about tolerances on symmetry both sides are equally knackered, see pics. I have undone the trailing arms and the damper bolts, ready for removal tomorrow and measurement thursday - half day off work and I need to collect the measurement data to generate the CAD model of my geometry. Is anyone else in this boat I am fortunate to have access to this kit, but I could try and design a jig for others ?


I deleted a picture it took to long to load.
Best regards
Sean

Edited by trickjohn on Tuesday 18th December 20:59

Edited by trickjohn on Wednesday 19th December 19:33

[Ray S]

Looks like you've got some work on,know the feeling .Worth it in finish.Ray s

[Sweet Thunder]

Hi Sean, I see you have a V6 cosworth in your chassis. Do you have some piccies of the passenger side exhaust manifold and the alternator mounting? I have a Cossie engine idling in the corner of the garage, and I still haven't decided on the final design spec of these two items. The solution on your car could give me some inspiration.
BTW: Did you put in the engine yourself, or did you buy the car with the engine already installed?

[Jed-S]

Your chassis is in a worse state than mine was so I do feel for you - bet your heart sank when the holes appeared. As long as your welder man thinks he can repair it then you'll be ok.

Just one thing to note - on the lower pic you can see the tub/seatbelt mount. They have different size horizontal flat plates each side that the tub rests on - well mine were different. Just thought I'd mention it before someone makes up two of the same size from a cardboard template by just turning the template over...

[trickjohn]

Hi - When I found it I was gutted - that cornflake type of noise when you put a spoon in, I was only clearing the mud out, nevermind it will get sorted and get me more fitter doing the work - I was sweating like a scouser in dixons earlier - removing the trailing arms (ready for measurement tomorrow).

The car already had the engine in when I brought it, I can take photos of the alternator side tomorrow - the alternator had a bracket which I removed as it kept throwing belts - one thing is that you can not (or I can not) is get much tension as the tensioner hub hits my exhaust (another job on the list reform that exhaust area). It will be clearer when you see the pictures.

Best Regards
Sean

[kenpage]

Sean ive emailed you some rusty pics let me know what you think thanks for the measurements i will measure it on sunday but mine as on yours both sides of mine are different but i only used a piece of string this time ill use a measure

[Barkychoc]

I like the chassis protectors on the axle stands - pure class !

Edited by Barkychoc on Saturday 22 December 22:15

[Rockey]

Change the handbrake cable while you have good access, did mine at the same time, It's surprising how the £s start to add up when you tackle this job, most of mine is done now, just got to put the body back on (did I say JUST) I'm doing mine outside so am limited by the weather

[Martijn]

Barkychoc said:

I like the chassis protectors on the axle stands - pure class !

Edited by Barkychoc on Saturday 22 December 22:15

Chassis protectors? To prevent the paint falling off, yeah right.
Axle stand protectors would be my guess!

Keep up de good work!

[Mel-S3]

trickjohn said:

Is anyone else in this boat I am fortunate to have access to this kit, but I could try and design a jig for others?

A Jig sounds a good idea. I have now seen a couple of S series with rot in this area, and i am sure there will be a few more. If it is not going to cost the earth, and you have the time, I'm am sure it will come in handy. It could be a huge saving on a potentially costly repair.

[trickjohn]

Hi all -

Dont try and copy my axle stand protectors I have copywrighted it.

How long should it take to completely strip the car ready for shot blasting and any tips on what can stay as lumps - I spent some time with an angle grinder and a knotted wire wheel today, it needs to be done properly.

I can fix the chassis - TVR Devon can sell me the brackets for £15 each, I need 3 of them. The welding will be finished mid Jan - I have to get the brackets remade and internal tubes turned up, then off for blasting and powercoating - any advise on powercoating?

Does any one know where I can get a front torsion assembly from ?
A second hand good radiator (or re core mine if not)

Thanks in advance for any advise.

Sean

Edited by trickjohn on Sunday 23 December 19:45

[Sweet Thunder]

Hi Sean,

Don't forget to take the socks off your axle stands and nail them to the chimney: Santa may fill them with a torsion bar and a radiator.
For a torsion bar you could try one of the TVR breakers (Bell Hill or Douglas Valley) or maybe TVRCarParts still has them new?
New radiators aren't available anymore, so you'll have to find a radiator specialist for a recore. Mine was done by Gloucestershire Radiator Specialists in Gloucester.

If you want to have the chassis blasted, keep in mind that the grit will find its way into everything, so you'll want to remove the engine, gearbox, differential, fuel tank and lines, brake hydraulics, drive shafts and hubs, steering rack, shock absorbers, ...
Wait, that leaves nothing but the chassis!

Seriously: it looks like you're heading towards a full blown restauration: a lot of work, but the end result will be worth it.

Good luck!

[Barkychoc]

Sean - put your wire wheel away and spend your time stripping the car - grit blasting is pretty cheap and will strip all the dirt and rust off. The biggest hurdle is getting the engine and gearbox out - and thats not as hard as you think - you'll need to get a hydraulic engine lift from a hire shop - don't try to cut corners it will do a lot of damage to anything and everything if you drop it.
I doubt any worthy gritblasters would do it with the engine etc still in place anyway.

My gritblaster down the road will paint the chassis aswell (zinc based primer then top coats they do various types) it might be worth getting them to paint your chassis aswell, then nipping it back to them for a respray on your rear chassis bits when they are sorted - many posts say it takes hours to paint one coat on the chassis, whereas they can spray it dead easy and not very expensive.

Chris

[trickjohn]

HI - Thanks for the replies, the wire brush has been put away - full strip down it is then. The engine looks quite tight, it looks like the gearbox needs to be separated any links or advise will be gratefully received, please dont think I know what I am doing.

Have a great Xmas.

Best Regards

Sean