Discussion
Hi Colin, yes I was put off for about a whole day 
I hadn't had the first one one for anywhere near long enough, so when the insurance paid out I went for another:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I made sure all the door release mechanisms worked well!

I hadn't had the first one one for anywhere near long enough, so when the insurance paid out I went for another:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I made sure all the door release mechanisms worked well!
Brummmie said:
I reckon the live that goes to the starter would be the most likely cause, i have armoured my cable, and clipped it well out of the way of any metal parts.
Thanks for the tip Brummmie. Any chance you could tell us as to how easy this is to do (Or just check).Edited by Mr M on Wednesday 26th December 14:43
Mr M said:
Brummmie said:
I reckon the live that goes to the starter would be the most likely cause, i have armoured my cable, and clipped it well out of the way of any metal parts.
Thanks for the tip Brummmie. Any chance you could tell us as to how easy this is to do (Or just check).Edited by Mr M on Wednesday 26th December 14:43
petclub said:
Hi Brummie, I strongly suspect that was the seat of the first fire, the flames looked like they were coming from soemwhere near the thick cable at the bottom of the battery.
Ditto with my car. The fire started on the fat bundle of wires from the battery running towards the firewall/starter. A 3" section of it was burning near the rear of the airbox when I lifted the bonnet. The car had just had a respray and my suspicion is that some wires were pushed down near to the exhaust manifold when the engine cover was put on after a jump start. The fire started as soon as the car warmed up on the 3rd time I drove it after the respray. Impossible to prove of course. Good advice to keep those wires tied out of the way, the clearance is tight there.i posted a warning on this a few years ago when i managed to put one out and find the fault,
THE CLUTCH BLEED PIPE (STEEL BRADED) FLIES ABOUT AND CAN CATCH THE NUT ON THE END OF THE STARTER MOTOR POWER LEaD,THUS SHORTING IT TO EARTH (WHERE THE PIPE ENTERS THE SLAVE CYL)
replace cover / insulate the starter terminal and pipe with rubber and make a bracket to stop it flying arround
THE CLUTCH BLEED PIPE (STEEL BRADED) FLIES ABOUT AND CAN CATCH THE NUT ON THE END OF THE STARTER MOTOR POWER LEaD,THUS SHORTING IT TO EARTH (WHERE THE PIPE ENTERS THE SLAVE CYL)
replace cover / insulate the starter terminal and pipe with rubber and make a bracket to stop it flying arround
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Cheers Dave.