Engine type question..
Discussion
I have a friend who is building a pro street capri V8 as a project destined for the street and strip. I'm not sure of the answer myself so i wondered if all you like minded geeks could help 
What's the advantages of tunnel ram injection/carburation and is it worth it on a rover V8 ?
Thanks! ^_^
What's the advantages of tunnel ram injection/carburation and is it worth it on a rover V8 ?
Thanks! ^_^
Miss Corrado said:
I have a friend who is building a pro street capri V8 as a project destined for the street and strip. I'm not sure of the answer myself so i wondered if all you like minded geeks could help
What's the advantages of tunnel ram injection/carburation and is it worth it on a rover V8 ?
Thanks! ^_^
the key words are "street/strip" Tunnel rams are the worst option for street driving,unless he is going to drive round at over 4000rpm and revving the motor to 8000 on the strip...What's the advantages of tunnel ram injection/carburation and is it worth it on a rover V8 ?
Thanks! ^_^
A single plane with a single carb will be so much more drivable and make almost the same HP at the top end.
EFI allows tuning everywhere in the rev range but doesn't really make much more power at the top end,unless you're WAY off with your carb tune.
redvictor said:
Miss Corrado said:
I have a friend who is building a pro street capri V8 as a project destined for the street and strip. I'm not sure of the answer myself so i wondered if all you like minded geeks could help
What's the advantages of tunnel ram injection/carburation and is it worth it on a rover V8 ?
Thanks! ^_^
the key words are "street/strip" Tunnel rams are the worst option for street driving,unless he is going to drive round at over 4000rpm and revving the motor to 8000 on the strip...What's the advantages of tunnel ram injection/carburation and is it worth it on a rover V8 ?
Thanks! ^_^
A single plane with a single carb will be so much more drivable and make almost the same HP at the top end.
EFI allows tuning everywhere in the rev range but doesn't really make much more power at the top end,unless you're WAY off with your carb tune.
Thank you Andy
I agree with redvictor. I had a tunnel rammed small block in a street Chevy Monza in my late teens. The visual is awesome. Still have the old Edelbrock TR-1 "shoebox." Big plenum and short runners, which I think might be better for the street than modern ones. Plus the big, flat sides on it's plenum look great when polished. I KNOW it lost power over a single carb but, watching your linkage move as you drive and the looks it gets is a factor? The carbs were inline and the linkage was a rod that slide through pieces with set screws. You could take a screw out and drive on one carb if you had a problem with the other.
I'd think someone would have to be pretty serious/anal (sorry, LOL) about their "street horsepower" to justify the extra cost of electronic fuel injection. I can't see it. Throw a carb and intake on it. Spend the savings on nitrous if you want more net power. Then it doesn't make more power all the time, taking it easier on bearings, etc.
Just don't make the mistake with a carb that I've seen many make. Many unkowing will try to use jets to tune for throttle response. Timeslips and reading plugs after shutting off right at the finish line is for jets. Get a kit. Put the correct power valve in for your engine's idle vacuume. Tune for response with squirters and pump cams. You'll be happy.
http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm
I'd think someone would have to be pretty serious/anal (sorry, LOL) about their "street horsepower" to justify the extra cost of electronic fuel injection. I can't see it. Throw a carb and intake on it. Spend the savings on nitrous if you want more net power. Then it doesn't make more power all the time, taking it easier on bearings, etc.
Just don't make the mistake with a carb that I've seen many make. Many unkowing will try to use jets to tune for throttle response. Timeslips and reading plugs after shutting off right at the finish line is for jets. Get a kit. Put the correct power valve in for your engine's idle vacuume. Tune for response with squirters and pump cams. You'll be happy.
http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm
Edited by Nitrohaulic on Wednesday 26th December 20:34
Nitrohaulic said:
I agree with redvictor. I had a tunnel rammed small block in a street Chevy Monza in my late teens. The visual is awesome. Still have the old Edelbrock TR-1 "shoebox." Big plenum and short runners, which I think might be better for the street than modern ones. Plus the big, flat sides on it's plenum look great when polished. I KNOW it lost power over a single carb but, watching your linkage move as you drive and the looks it gets is a factor? The carbs were inline and the linkage was a rod that slide through pieces with set screws. You could take a screw out and drive on one carb if you had a problem with the other.
I'd think someone would have to be pretty serious/anal (sorry, LOL) about their "street horsepower" to justify the extra cost of electronic fuel injection. I can't see it. Throw a carb and intake on it. Spend the savings on nitrous if you want more net power. Then it doesn't make more power all the time, taking it easier on bearings, etc.
Just don't make the mistake with a carb that I've seen many make. Many unkowing will try to use jets to tune for throttle response. Timeslips and reading plugs after shutting off right at the finish line is for jets. Get a kit. Put the correct power valve in for your engine's idle vacuume. Tune for response with squirters and pump cams. You'll be happy.
http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm
I think you should look at Megasquirt. Spark and fuel, with launch control, nitrous control, boost control if you want it, all for £300ish? And you tune it with an old laptop (mine cost £40). You can do wasted spark or even coil on plug.I'd think someone would have to be pretty serious/anal (sorry, LOL) about their "street horsepower" to justify the extra cost of electronic fuel injection. I can't see it. Throw a carb and intake on it. Spend the savings on nitrous if you want more net power. Then it doesn't make more power all the time, taking it easier on bearings, etc.
Just don't make the mistake with a carb that I've seen many make. Many unkowing will try to use jets to tune for throttle response. Timeslips and reading plugs after shutting off right at the finish line is for jets. Get a kit. Put the correct power valve in for your engine's idle vacuume. Tune for response with squirters and pump cams. You'll be happy.
http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm
Edited by Nitrohaulic on Wednesday 26th December 20:34
What does a good carb cost new?
I googled them and got this from their site.
[QUOTE] Note that a MegaSquirt® EFI Controller is the controller only, you will have to gather the remaining fuel system parts yourself (from 1 to 16 injectors, sensors, fuel rails, fuel pump, etc.). [/QUOTE]
What does all that cost? If you're cost effective enough to utilize a used $40 laptop, why does the carb have to be new? I know we have the used parts volume over here and that I've never bought a new carb in my life but, surely there's a used market over there?
There might be differences in price and availability because of where we're from but, I bet I could buy carb, intake, fuel pump, and nitrous (most or all used) for less than a complete EFI, fuel pump, controller, and make more power. The EFI engine may run slightly more efficiently.
[QUOTE] Note that a MegaSquirt® EFI Controller is the controller only, you will have to gather the remaining fuel system parts yourself (from 1 to 16 injectors, sensors, fuel rails, fuel pump, etc.). [/QUOTE]
What does all that cost? If you're cost effective enough to utilize a used $40 laptop, why does the carb have to be new? I know we have the used parts volume over here and that I've never bought a new carb in my life but, surely there's a used market over there?
There might be differences in price and availability because of where we're from but, I bet I could buy carb, intake, fuel pump, and nitrous (most or all used) for less than a complete EFI, fuel pump, controller, and make more power. The EFI engine may run slightly more efficiently.
Edited by Nitrohaulic on Thursday 27th December 05:51
Wel, if you buy the injectors from the States, they're dirt cheap
$59 each for 90lb/hr flow matched Seimens units (Racetronix).
The sensors can be got from just about any car or use your originals. Fuel pump would have to be bought anyway, so not much difference there. Ignition? Lock up your original distributor and use it as a trigger as well as distributing sparks, or go for a pair of coilpacks. Alternatively, don't use the igniton function at all if you don't want to (although you'd then lose any ability to do launch control).
Over here we have the problem that drag racing is a very small sport and as such parts are few and far between. Besides, fuel injection is, in my opinion, the way to go if you want ultimate power.You just don't have the accuracy with carbs.
In carbs favour, there are generations of tuners who can point you in the right direction to make that power.
Carbs are definitely easier, but in my opinion EFI is ultimately superior, especially if you want consistency.
$59 each for 90lb/hr flow matched Seimens units (Racetronix).The sensors can be got from just about any car or use your originals. Fuel pump would have to be bought anyway, so not much difference there. Ignition? Lock up your original distributor and use it as a trigger as well as distributing sparks, or go for a pair of coilpacks. Alternatively, don't use the igniton function at all if you don't want to (although you'd then lose any ability to do launch control).
Over here we have the problem that drag racing is a very small sport and as such parts are few and far between. Besides, fuel injection is, in my opinion, the way to go if you want ultimate power.You just don't have the accuracy with carbs.
In carbs favour, there are generations of tuners who can point you in the right direction to make that power.
Carbs are definitely easier, but in my opinion EFI is ultimately superior, especially if you want consistency.
veryoldfart said:
Interesting but it's fitted to a newer generation of BPO engine which is transverse. V8's share the same bolt spacings in most areas but the 340 has a taller block so the heads are further apart, requiring a different intake..
I'll admit my opinions are biased from usually working with very minimal amounts of money. 
I'm usually looking from the standpoint of the absolute most power for the absolute least amount of money. Horsepower per dollar spent.
If a budget permits it then, EFI would definitely be the way to go. Whether you want to or can afford to incorporate supercharging (blower or turbo) or a power adder such as nitrous?
Tunnel rams are great for visual effect (I miss velocity stacks!) but, make their power at higher RPM and in a more narrow RPM range. One of the best running street and strip cars I ever owned had a high rise dual plane intake.
I'm usually looking from the standpoint of the absolute most power for the absolute least amount of money. Horsepower per dollar spent.If a budget permits it then, EFI would definitely be the way to go. Whether you want to or can afford to incorporate supercharging (blower or turbo) or a power adder such as nitrous?
Tunnel rams are great for visual effect (I miss velocity stacks!) but, make their power at higher RPM and in a more narrow RPM range. One of the best running street and strip cars I ever owned had a high rise dual plane intake.
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