mk1 mr2 advice?
Discussion
Hi all,
Possibly just another daydream, but im after asome information on a mk1 mr2 - for the money they seem to be an absolute bargain and I've heard they're very entertaining on both the road and the track... are they as twitchy as thier short wheelbase suggests though?/ what are the weaknesses/ what should one watch out for when looking at one?
The only real issue I have at present with it is getting insurance (im young) and the looks of the thing...
Thanks in advance,
BCA
Possibly just another daydream, but im after asome information on a mk1 mr2 - for the money they seem to be an absolute bargain and I've heard they're very entertaining on both the road and the track... are they as twitchy as thier short wheelbase suggests though?/ what are the weaknesses/ what should one watch out for when looking at one?
The only real issue I have at present with it is getting insurance (im young) and the looks of the thing...
Thanks in advance,
BCA
There are a few rules when looking at mk1's, thats 1. Look for rust on the sills, 2. look for rust on the rear arches, 3. look for rust everywhere else. They are the important rules, other wise just check it doesn't pop out of gear, 5th is the usual issue and synchro on 2nd and 3rd the mechanics are essentially bomb proof.
Huge fun cars, I had an '88 sunroof model I stripped out completely they are a car that make you drive like a hooligan, best described as a road legal Kart.
Huge fun cars, I had an '88 sunroof model I stripped out completely they are a car that make you drive like a hooligan, best described as a road legal Kart.
Rust in the sills you might not see because it is generally under the bodykit. Rust in the arches is easier to see and is all repairable but make sure the price takes that into account. Mechanics are bombproof but do the usual checks, make sure the coolant is ok as that can often be badly maintained and may need flushing out.
Another rust hotspot is behind the front bumper. Also be aware that the T-bars almost always leak but they have more headroom. They can understeer like a bastard so make sure you have good rubber on them.
Aside from that, enjoy.
Another rust hotspot is behind the front bumper. Also be aware that the T-bars almost always leak but they have more headroom. They can understeer like a bastard so make sure you have good rubber on them.
Aside from that, enjoy.
To be honest, you need wet weather to "drift" a standard mk1 as it just doesn't have the power to break traction. Then it's more of an inertia slide, but that's a whole other debate.
A mk1 SC could probably get the arse out properly and a mk1.6 definitely can.
They are definitely not the best cars for "drifting" as the engine is in the wrong place, should be at the front, but the handling is awesome.
Who wants to go sideways round a corner when you can nip into it and out the other side before the "drifters" are applying opposite lock?
Get yourself a test drive in a mk1, you'll know exactly what i mean, it's an awesome car to drive, so much fun.
A mk1 SC could probably get the arse out properly and a mk1.6 definitely can.
They are definitely not the best cars for "drifting" as the engine is in the wrong place, should be at the front, but the handling is awesome.
Who wants to go sideways round a corner when you can nip into it and out the other side before the "drifters" are applying opposite lock?
Get yourself a test drive in a mk1, you'll know exactly what i mean, it's an awesome car to drive, so much fun.
BCA, get one... as then i can flog you the spare 4AGE i have sitting in my garage ha!!
no seriously though i looked at getting one about a year ago, the only thing that put me off was insurance, i think i may look at quotes again now though, it may feel a bit gutless compared to the cerb though!
no seriously though i looked at getting one about a year ago, the only thing that put me off was insurance, i think i may look at quotes again now though, it may feel a bit gutless compared to the cerb though!
ccharlie6 said:
BCA, get one... as then i can flog you the spare 4AGE i have sitting in my garage ha!!
no seriously though i looked at getting one about a year ago, the only thing that put me off was insurance, i think i may look at quotes again now though, it may feel a bit gutless compared to the cerb though!
Interesting, what else do you have in the garage?? no seriously though i looked at getting one about a year ago, the only thing that put me off was insurance, i think i may look at quotes again now though, it may feel a bit gutless compared to the cerb though!
Will try and catch you on msn over the coming weeks (at home so not online much atm...) could do with a catch up/chat about the above.
Its not actually what it seems and is probably similar to the reason you have a 4AGE in your garage! As for the Cerb, everything feels gutless after it - im after something a little less terrifying to join it whilst we do some development work on it and a body off rebuild... 
Ah yes, insurance - does anyone know if there are any specialists who look upon them favourably?? Im young but will only be after limited mileage/ probably looking at using the car for less than a year anyway...
I bought a Mk1 MR2 a few months ago, with the intention of stripping it out and using it as a trackday car. Compared to the Mk2 MR2 (which I'm used to), it felt a lot more lively and 'chuckable' on the road; the difference between the two cars is amazing.
However...as already mentioned on here, rust is such a key issue with these cars. My Mk1 was so badly rusted throughout (even though initially the condition was staggeringly good) once I'd got started with the spannering that there was nothing much left to salvage, and the car ended up down the scrapyard. Well, minus the leather interior which is still sitting in my garage loft!
However...as already mentioned on here, rust is such a key issue with these cars. My Mk1 was so badly rusted throughout (even though initially the condition was staggeringly good) once I'd got started with the spannering that there was nothing much left to salvage, and the car ended up down the scrapyard. Well, minus the leather interior which is still sitting in my garage loft!
My fiance and I run 3 MK1's (tad sad I know... 
)
We have a dedicated track/sprint prepped 1a (early spec)still road legal, an imported Supercharger (1b - later spec) that's been slighty tweeked which sees ocassional track use and a heavily modified show car which is seldom driven on public roads.
As said above - rust is the major thing, but is easily repaired/restored for not much money. The engines are pretty much bullet proof as long as you keep an eye on the guages and keep them serviced well.
As with any mid-engined rwd car, make sure it has decent rubber on the rear.
Brakes need to be looked after, fully serviced, functional and have decent pads. Many people feel the need to upgrade to expensive bigger kits. I have experimented on our three cars and have found stock brakes to be more than adequate - even for serious track use using the right combination of pads.
A decent, tidy car will cost around £1000 upwards. Some people over evaluate their cars by a huge margin. There are plenty about so be resiliant. A decent Supercharger will start at around £2500. Premiums are paid for manual boxes and more for slippy diiffs.
The club also has it's dedicated forum kindly hosted by IMOC:
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums
)We have a dedicated track/sprint prepped 1a (early spec)still road legal, an imported Supercharger (1b - later spec) that's been slighty tweeked which sees ocassional track use and a heavily modified show car which is seldom driven on public roads.
As said above - rust is the major thing, but is easily repaired/restored for not much money. The engines are pretty much bullet proof as long as you keep an eye on the guages and keep them serviced well.
As with any mid-engined rwd car, make sure it has decent rubber on the rear.
Brakes need to be looked after, fully serviced, functional and have decent pads. Many people feel the need to upgrade to expensive bigger kits. I have experimented on our three cars and have found stock brakes to be more than adequate - even for serious track use using the right combination of pads.
A decent, tidy car will cost around £1000 upwards. Some people over evaluate their cars by a huge margin. There are plenty about so be resiliant. A decent Supercharger will start at around £2500. Premiums are paid for manual boxes and more for slippy diiffs.
BCA said:
Are there any reccommended forums specific to the mk1?
The MR2 MK1 Club website (www.mr2mk1club.com) is the largest single source of info on the car. The current site is messy, but it has recently been redeveloped, is in testing and is due to be launched very soon.The club also has it's dedicated forum kindly hosted by IMOC:
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums
A-Plan or Sky insurance or any classic insurance company if you don't need to build NCD.
As for out puts, 123bhp for a mk1b and 120bhp for a mk1a, negligable difference but mk1a is a bit lighter. Obviously t-bar models weigh more too.
Are you looking for actual measurements of the 4age?
Where are you based chief?
As for out puts, 123bhp for a mk1b and 120bhp for a mk1a, negligable difference but mk1a is a bit lighter. Obviously t-bar models weigh more too.
Are you looking for actual measurements of the 4age?
Where are you based chief?
Yep, looking for measurements of the 4AGE+gearbox... basically have the plan of buying one thats destined for the scrappers, driving it until MOT time (so for a few months hopefully) then using the drivetrain for another project... So I need to know all I can.
Im based near Birmingham if it helps..
So I need to know all I can.Im based near Birmingham if it helps..
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