Discussion
In theory an engine flush sounds great, clearing gunk and varnish build up from all the oilways and mechanicals allowing for removal of harmful deposits and increasing oil flow throughout the engine. However with every plus there is a minus, If you were to look at any bearing surface (Cam,followers, crank etc) under a microscope it would not be perfectly smooth, you would see many imperfections like pockets and ridges.
It is these imperfections that gradually build up with oil residue that does not drain into the sump when the engine stops running, and gives critical lubrication from start up hence reducing pure metal to metal contact so helping to reduce wear. An engine flush will clear away this residue which obviously should be avoided as cold start protection may be reduced.
A flush will also clear build up from valve guides rings etc, which especially on an older engine could increase oil consumption, even increasing blue smoke exiting the rear, especially if using a lower viscosity oil. I think you will find this experience reported on other threads if you do a search.
In my opinion the number one for engine maintainance is "REGULAR" changes yearly at maximum, regardless of mileage as even if you only do a couple of thousand miles a year as the chances are low milage will indicate short periodic jouneys which do not allow the engine and lubricants to get hot enough to burn off moisture created.
It is these imperfections that gradually build up with oil residue that does not drain into the sump when the engine stops running, and gives critical lubrication from start up hence reducing pure metal to metal contact so helping to reduce wear. An engine flush will clear away this residue which obviously should be avoided as cold start protection may be reduced.
A flush will also clear build up from valve guides rings etc, which especially on an older engine could increase oil consumption, even increasing blue smoke exiting the rear, especially if using a lower viscosity oil. I think you will find this experience reported on other threads if you do a search.
In my opinion the number one for engine maintainance is "REGULAR" changes yearly at maximum, regardless of mileage as even if you only do a couple of thousand miles a year as the chances are low milage will indicate short periodic jouneys which do not allow the engine and lubricants to get hot enough to burn off moisture created.
Edited by peter miller on Thursday 27th December 11:03
Edited by peter miller on Thursday 27th December 11:05
Friend of mine has good idea-he drops the old oil, buys a cheap, thin oil, puts this in, runs engine, drops cheapie oil (now very black and dirty), refills with good stuff. His corrado has done 115000 miles at least and gets used frequently, runs fine, no probs. In fact, never any engine probs.......
Dave.
Dave.
Sam Gamgee said:
Friend of mine has good idea-he drops the old oil, buys a cheap, thin oil, puts this in, runs engine, drops cheapie oil (now very black and dirty), refills with good stuff. His corrado has done 115000 miles at least and gets used frequently, runs fine, no probs. In fact, never any engine probs.......
Dave.
Agreed, Much better than letting a detergent get pumped around.
Dave.
Agreed, Much better than letting a detergent get pumped around.
As a rule I hate the bloody stuff. Sometimes when an engine is run on fully synth for a long time you sometimes get varnish glaze on the bore etc, this can be reduced by running a mineral for say 300 miles before returning to fully synth.
I would go for changing the oil more frequently, making sure it's red hot before changing and allowing to drain for at least half an hour.
I would go for changing the oil more frequently, making sure it's red hot before changing and allowing to drain for at least half an hour.
if you feel the need to flush use a mineral oil for a couple hundred miles then change that,but dont use flushing oil.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff