Radiator advice
Discussion
Decided to replace or recore my radiator as there appeared to be a slight leak, though the car's temp was fine (my 'new' 450, 2000 model).
I've read a number of threads and was wondering if anyone can tell if my rad was a standard Discovery part, which I understand are cheaper to buy than official TVR parts.
How 'bad' does the rad frame need to be before it's not worth having it recored ? Or could the frame also be painted by the company that recores ?
What's the actual fixing arrangement of the rad's rubber mounts .. mine have 'sheared' trying to undo the fixing nuts and I can't work out yet how to get the nuts/bolts out, both from the rad and the bodywork ?
I've read a number of threads and was wondering if anyone can tell if my rad was a standard Discovery part, which I understand are cheaper to buy than official TVR parts.
How 'bad' does the rad frame need to be before it's not worth having it recored ? Or could the frame also be painted by the company that recores ?
What's the actual fixing arrangement of the rad's rubber mounts .. mine have 'sheared' trying to undo the fixing nuts and I can't work out yet how to get the nuts/bolts out, both from the rad and the bodywork ?
According to http://www.chimaerapages.com its a Range Rover rad with midified bottom hose connection, but I've seen the ally rad on I think TVR Power website.
duncscz said:
What's the actual fixing arrangement of the rad's rubber mounts .. mine have 'sheared' trying to undo the fixing nuts and I can't work out yet how to get the nuts/bolts out, both from the rad and the bodywork ?
Are these the fixings on the side "ears" of the rad that you have sheared off?Or are you talking about the bolts that hold the fan assembly onto the rad, 2 at top and 2 at base if I remember correctly
Thanks .. actually, I've sheared one of the fan bolts (bottom) and the rubber mountings. Problem is how to now remove the what's left of the mountings as they just turn cos I can't grip the 'head' and a worse problem of how to remove what's left in the bodywork - again, the nut/bolt just turns on itself :-(
They should be able to fix your 'captive' nuts when they rebuild the rad. Yes they will fully paint it black when reconditioning it. If you have it reconditioned ask for the extra core as well as larger cores - they should know what you want (many of the places do cash discounts BTW 
).
The rad differs from the LR one in 2/3 ways, you have a bung for the otter switch as you have a later car, the bottom hose connection turns nearly parallel to the rad to clear the chassis (LR parts come practically straight out, as well as only being a few of this shape that don't have an integral oil cooler). With TVR rads it is very common that the side mounts are trimmed down as otherwise they don't assemble in or fit the bodywork very well (but you may see a few with the side mounts still intact).
Dave
).The rad differs from the LR one in 2/3 ways, you have a bung for the otter switch as you have a later car, the bottom hose connection turns nearly parallel to the rad to clear the chassis (LR parts come practically straight out, as well as only being a few of this shape that don't have an integral oil cooler). With TVR rads it is very common that the side mounts are trimmed down as otherwise they don't assemble in or fit the bodywork very well (but you may see a few with the side mounts still intact).
Dave
Barkychoc said:
Aren't those radiator ends plastic? (And the core is Ally).
It looks identical to the original I've recently replaced on my car: the 'header' tanks are brass and the core copper.spend said:
If you have it reconditioned ask for the extra core as well as larger cores
My original had three cores, although I've heard of one with four cores. How do the 'larger' cores work - my replacement looked identical to the original? I was told it started life as a Discovery radiator that had had the otter switch boss grafted on.
If you see the side tanks disassembled there is space for 4 rows of cores, just seems only 3 are used as std. Getting the extra cores put in, and as large as sensible (too big & they would block the matrix) gives you max cooling - and you then need the thermostat to keep warm in the winter. I still stand by my decision to use different stats in the winter & summer
Just look at the bottom hose on LR rads it exits at @30degs from perp, whereas the TVR requires closer to 90degs There will be plenty of pics on ebay to confirm the difference, if you don't believe the bible (or me!)
Dave
Dave
Just look at the bottom hose on LR rads it exits at @30degs from perp, whereas the TVR requires closer to 90degs
There will be plenty of pics on ebay to confirm the difference, if you don't believe the bible (or me!)Dave
Dave
Barkychoc said:
It looks identical to the original I've recently replaced on my car: the 'header' tanks are brass and the core copper.
From where did you source a replacement ? Or was it recored ? Mine has metal ends (non-magnetic) .. brass, I guess. So I assume recoring is probably the way to go ..
Still got to get one of the captive bolts, left from the rubber mount, out from the body ... grrr :-( ... may need to dust off the angle-grinder
spend said:
Just look at the bottom hose on LR rads it exits at @30degs from perp, whereas the TVR requires closer to 90degs There will be plenty of pics on ebay to confirm the difference, if you don't believe the bible (or me!)
No, I do believe you: I meant my replacement started out life as a Disco rad, not the TVR ones in general!duncscz said:
From where did you source a replacement ? Or was it recored ?
Supplied by an independent up north. He in turn sources them from a radiator specialist. Radiator man does an exchange service to speed up repair time. Independent told me that radiator man made up his buffer stock by remanufacturing some Discovery radiators to TVR specification.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff