Front numberplate fixings
Front numberplate fixings
Author
Discussion

Don1

Original Poster:

16,850 posts

238 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
As I am looking to move my numberplate from the grill to the lover area of the front - how do I fix it? Is it screwing it into the fibreglass? (gulp!).

How have others done theirs?

T_Pot

2,542 posts

227 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
mine is just screwed into the fiberglass lip

Barreti

6,689 posts

267 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
Both my 3/4 and full size plates are held on using about 1/2inch wide velcro. It means I can swap them easily at MOT time, pull them off for cleaning, or remove it for track days.

You wouldn't believe velcro would hold it but 18months on and I'm had no problem.

Chimjunkie

2,879 posts

241 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
as above. But just be meticulous in cleaning areas where sticky pads go. De-wax etc. Velcro way to go. Too easy to knock off on curb when parking.

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
I used to have mine screwed into the lower lip, just sandwiched some rubber washers to stop the plate vibrating on the body. Recently I made up a couple of brackets that fix under the undertray, easy enough with ally strips - they are hidden wink

Dave

Edited by spend on Friday 28th December 15:12

BrianMillar

192 posts

235 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
I fixed a blank numberplate to the fibreglass lip with countersunk self tappers then attached the real numberplate to the blank using double sided sticky pads.
It looks neat with no screws showing at the front

stackmonkey

5,084 posts

279 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
I did mine with strong double sided sticky tape. smile

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Friday 28th December 2007
quotequote all
I'm not sure everyone is reading the OP's request the same way? He is asking about fixing the plate to the rounded lower lip of the grill, not to a flat surface as I understand it?

Dave

chr1sb

126 posts

234 months

Saturday 29th December 2007
quotequote all
Hi Don,

I've used a hollow wall fixing (called 'Rawlnut' IIRC). This is a rubber 'plug' (for want of a better description) with a threaded centre & a flat headed screw through the middle. As you tighten it the rubber plug expands & grips the fibreglass. Don't overtighten. The plate might end up slightly angled either up or down, but care with positioning the holes should obviate this. Mine is pretty much spot on, but as long as the plate can be read from 60ft it will be legal (I believe). Any DIY store should supply - I used Homebase.
BTW, don't have the plate too far down - it will hit ramps/road pox ! I positioned mine with approx 50% of the plate above the lip. Makes a big difference to engine temps.

Chris

Edited by chr1sb on Saturday 29th December 10:20

Zumbruk

7,848 posts

290 months

Saturday 29th December 2007
quotequote all
Mine too is Velcro'd on. The original plate was held on with self-tappers into the f/glass, but after removing and replacing it half-a-dozen times (so as to fit the timing strut required for sprints) the hole stripped out.

3doorPete

9,991 posts

264 months

Sunday 30th December 2007
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I have a quarter size front plate held on with double sided sticky pad/tape. Holding fine.

Colin L

1,243 posts

297 months

Sunday 30th December 2007
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I reduced the size of the plate to half the normal and kept the lettering almost standard, just 3mm smaller and no problem from the Police, I change it at MOT time, but heh it looks good and easy to fit,

Once you screw it into the body its never comes of.

Helps air flow, I say,,

Colin L

See the pic on my profile..