Removing the main crank pulley?

[cinquecento]

Hi all..

Is it possible to remove the main serpentine drive pulley off the crank with the engine in?.

There does look like there is enough clearance to remove the pulley after removing the 6 smaller bolts and the main pulley bolt.

I am starting to look at an 36-1 trigger wheel, regardless of which wheel I end up using it looks as if I need to lathe off part of the rear balancer..or part of the larger thick harmonic balancer to ensure the pulley/balancers and trigger wheel are no wider that the current pulley/balancers.

Are there any tips?

[eliot]

I assume you saw the photos of my mates griff 500, where we done that. The fact that its sat on my bench, means that it can be removed in situ. (He removed it, not me)
http://www.mez.co.uk/ms11.html

[dnb]

You can get the crank pulley off, but you have to remove the exhaust Y piece and the cross member with the coolant expansion tank on.

I didn't have to do anything other than bolt my trigger disc on the car

[Pupp]

Have a squint in here... just done this one

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

The six pulley bolts have nuts on the back of the damper (so maybe best undone with the damper/pully assy off the injin), and the JE trigger wheel replaces those with no machining needed. Think the TriggerWheels.Com one is a simple bolt on too although I have seen other neat solutions that are a bit more involved.

[Johno]

Pupp

Did you take any picture whil you wen through the installation of the JE trigger wheel ?

Did you overcome the 90 degrees or is it 66 degrees before ?

[cinquecento]

Many thanks all...

I'd like to if possible avoid grinding or leaving off bits. The way I understand it my options are:



In the picture, the small balancing wheel closest (A) to the top of the picture has LARGE amounts of weld in the inside rim, I feel the whole assembly would be really out of balance if this was removed.

1. Eliot/Matt's approach of a thin FORD trigger wheel and removing 2mm off the pulley(C)/damper(B).. but leaving the rear balancing wheel in place.

2. Replacing the rear balancing wheel (A) with the trigger wheel and getting the whole assembly re-balanced.

Unfortunately, there is not enough clearance to add a 5mm trigger wheel without removing 5mm from somewhere as there is too little clearance and it would foul on the engine assembly.

Is my thinking correct?.. and am I assuming that a balanced assembly is critical. In my research I have found comments that some people leave the balancer (A) off!!!..and replace this with a trigger wheel.

[Pupp]

Johno said:

Pupp

Did you take any picture whil you wen through the installation of the JE trigger wheel ?

Did you overcome the 90 degrees or is it 66 degrees before ?

I didn't take any pics I'm afraid, and think I've got the missing tooth being seen at 120deg BTDC (give or take) although 60(ish) is also possible (along with other permutations I didn't work out)

[Pupp]

cinquecento said:

Many thanks all...

I'd like to if possible avoid grinding or leaving off bits. The way I understand it my options are:



In the picture, the small balancing wheel closest (A) to the top of the picture has LARGE amounts of weld in the inside rim, I feel the whole assembly would be really out of balance if this was removed.

1. Eliot/Matt's approach of a thin FORD trigger wheel and removing 2mm off the pulley(C)/damper(B).. but leaving the rear balancing wheel in place.

2. Replacing the rear balancing wheel (A) with the trigger wheel and getting the whole assembly re-balanced.

Unfortunately, there is not enough clearance to add a 5mm trigger wheel without removing 5mm from somewhere as there is too little clearance and it would foul on the engine assembly.

Is my thinking correct?.. and am I assuming that a balanced assembly is critical. In my research I have found comments that some people leave the balancer (A) off!!!..and replace this with a trigger wheel.

This looks different to mine... ie what you refer to as a balancer is not present. Serp/pre-Serp?

[eliot]

Pupp said:

This looks different to mine... ie what you refer to as a balancer is not present. Serp/pre-Serp?

The rear of Matts wheel looked just like that and removing it would definately ruin the balance, Which is why we left it well alone. And we didn't know if the weights are part of the crank balance, because it seems quite a bit just to make the damper itself neutral.

Its was serp, intermediate cover - on a 500. We did consider fitting it between points "a" and "b" on your picture, but the outer pulley and damper were easier for us.

Its not welding inside that lip, its a strip of round bar folded into the lip.

Edited by eliot on Monday 31st December 09:21

Edited by eliot on Monday 31st December 09:23

[Pupp]

eliot said:

Pupp said:

This looks different to mine... ie what you refer to as a balancer is not present. Serp/pre-Serp?

The rear of Matts wheel looked just like that and removing it would definately ruin the balance, Which is why we left it well alone. And we didn't know if the weights are part of the crank balance, because it seems quite a bit just to make the damper itself neutral.

Its was serp, intermediate cover - on a 500. We did consider fitting it between points "a" and "b" on your picture, but the outer pulley and damper were easier for us.

Its not welding inside that lip, its a strip of round bar folded into the lip.

Edited by eliot on Monday 31st December 09:21

Edited by eliot on Monday 31st December 09:23

I guess this must be how 'external balancing' is achieved... JE advised me to check that mine had been internally balanced (the builder confirmed it had) in which case there would be no balance issues in using his kit.