Seized/Rusting AP's
Discussion
Ok, haven't driven the car for just over a week. Last time it was driven, it was on the local dual carriageways and the road conditions were appalling.
So, after using 'er behind doors Corsa fo the last week, I decided to go out in the 'RO. Here's the worrying bit: It took over 5 minutes of rocking the car back and forth using engine power to un-seize the brakes and when they did let go, it went with a bang - loud enough to be heard at the far end of the house.
Went out on a 20 mile drive to try and remove the rust off the discs (which I have never seen brake discs in such a rusty state). Tried gradual braking down long hills etc.
The front discs are a bit cleaner, the n/s/f is pretty clean, o/s/f is patchy and the rears look terrible even with attempting long down hill braking.
As I've said, I've never seen discs get into such a state and I'm worried I might have reduced braking efficiency. Any ideas on how to prevent this or get the discs cleaned up? Considering the cost of them, I'm not impressed.
Thanks.
So, after using 'er behind doors Corsa fo the last week, I decided to go out in the 'RO. Here's the worrying bit: It took over 5 minutes of rocking the car back and forth using engine power to un-seize the brakes and when they did let go, it went with a bang - loud enough to be heard at the far end of the house.
Went out on a 20 mile drive to try and remove the rust off the discs (which I have never seen brake discs in such a rusty state). Tried gradual braking down long hills etc.
The front discs are a bit cleaner, the n/s/f is pretty clean, o/s/f is patchy and the rears look terrible even with attempting long down hill braking.
As I've said, I've never seen discs get into such a state and I'm worried I might have reduced braking efficiency. Any ideas on how to prevent this or get the discs cleaned up? Considering the cost of them, I'm not impressed.
Thanks.
If braking whilst driving aint cleaning them much would suggest theirs something wrong with the brakes or the pads at least, might not be getting close enough.
Otherwise only real way to clean them is to take the wheels off and get the stuff off with a wire brush or the likes.
We have trade ins sat out the back of our garage for upto 3 weeks at a time and at this time of year getting them to move after the brakes seize on is a nightmare at times, even when parked without the handbrakes on.
Otherwise only real way to clean them is to take the wheels off and get the stuff off with a wire brush or the likes.
We have trade ins sat out the back of our garage for upto 3 weeks at a time and at this time of year getting them to move after the brakes seize on is a nightmare at times, even when parked without the handbrakes on.
I would try a bit of left foot braking at motorway speeds to clean the disks. The disks will have a light covering of rust when you wash your car as posted on here before. The other thing I would say is disks rust and there has been salt/rain/ice on the roads so in combination rusting is not unexpected.
Hmm, but I had never had this problem with the standard PBR set-up. Yes, I'd get some rust patches, but these were pure discs of rust! What worried me more was the 'extreme' force needed to get the car moving, so much so it stalled twice.
My works Corsa has been through worse on the lead up to Christmas and it's been standing for nearly two weeks and the disks are only showing minor patches of rust.
My works Corsa has been through worse on the lead up to Christmas and it's been standing for nearly two weeks and the disks are only showing minor patches of rust.
I have had AP's for many years and get the same every time I leave the car standing after a wet run. The force to get them free seems excessive BUT I have not had any adverse effects in the long term.
The reason for the amount of rust is based on the Iron content of the disc and AP have chosen a high content for the best braking performance.
One thing I now do is always jetwash the brakes with Reverse Osmosis water after a wet run and this stops the rust problem as Pure Water leaves no solids residue............Also I only wash the car in RO water as these Australian cars know how to rust!!!!!!!
The reason for the amount of rust is based on the Iron content of the disc and AP have chosen a high content for the best braking performance.
One thing I now do is always jetwash the brakes with Reverse Osmosis water after a wet run and this stops the rust problem as Pure Water leaves no solids residue............Also I only wash the car in RO water as these Australian cars know how to rust!!!!!!!
I use a 5 stage RO filter system and fill a 100ltr waterbut then fix my Jetwash to that....
If you are going to clean the disc's after wet runs with RO water, I would put some time into wire brushing the disc's to get them as clean as poss.
Also if you have cross drilled disc's make sure the holes are clean right through and cleaner slots are cleaned out.
I don't look at any of my upgrades as "fit and forget" but the AP's do need effort to get the best from them.
If you are going to clean the disc's after wet runs with RO water, I would put some time into wire brushing the disc's to get them as clean as poss.
Also if you have cross drilled disc's make sure the holes are clean right through and cleaner slots are cleaned out.
I don't look at any of my upgrades as "fit and forget" but the AP's do need effort to get the best from them.
Just braking is not enough for the rear discs. You need to brake heavily, almost to the point of having abs cut in due to the fact that most braking force takes place at the front. This is the only way you will get enough friction to clean them up.
Also I am about to have my standard cv8 brakes changed under networkq warranty as they have got a ring of rust all the way around. They were pretty much like that when I got the car, but they told me at the service that they were pretty bad. It is nice of networkq to cover brakes, isn't it??
Also I am about to have my standard cv8 brakes changed under networkq warranty as they have got a ring of rust all the way around. They were pretty much like that when I got the car, but they told me at the service that they were pretty bad. It is nice of networkq to cover brakes, isn't it??
DevilYellowCV8 said:
Last time it was driven, it was on the local dual carriageways and the road conditions were appalling.
Thats part of the problem. Any road residues that lie on the disc, will always cause them to rust faster. Be it water, dirty water, road salt/grit etc....Performance discs/pads just suffer worse when left around in such conditions.
Thanks for replies.
main concern is that the rear disks just aren't clearing at all and the o/s/f is still showing rust along the lengths of the grooves. So, if the rears aren't showing signs of clearing, are the rears possibly not working?
Under braking, i can feel 'rumbling' and slight judder. Just wondering if I've caused more problems in having 'force' the car under engine power.
Never known so much effort in trying to move the car, clutch was starting to smell a bit as well. The 5 minutes was no eggeration.
Main problem is that my drive is on a slight slope. Would it help to leave the car in gear, wheels chocked and handbrake off?
main concern is that the rear disks just aren't clearing at all and the o/s/f is still showing rust along the lengths of the grooves. So, if the rears aren't showing signs of clearing, are the rears possibly not working?
Under braking, i can feel 'rumbling' and slight judder. Just wondering if I've caused more problems in having 'force' the car under engine power.
Never known so much effort in trying to move the car, clutch was starting to smell a bit as well. The 5 minutes was no eggeration.
Main problem is that my drive is on a slight slope. Would it help to leave the car in gear, wheels chocked and handbrake off?
Used to have this with the elise all the time - those brakes are non-servo'd so the pads have to be much closer to the disc. Slightest bit of moisture and the pads would lock onto the discs.
It can be very unnerving but never had any issues with them. It can take a while to clean the crud off them - some high speed braking runs are best.
It can be very unnerving but never had any issues with them. It can take a while to clean the crud off them - some high speed braking runs are best.
I had this as well a while back. I washed the ro and left it out and didnt use for a week or so. Came back and same problem, I couldn't move as the front and rears were locked solid. However to make matters worse my driveway is gravel! The rears freed themselves no problem but couldnt get any purchase to pull the fronts away and was just getting buried in the gravel at the rear. I had to jack the front up and rotate the wheels manually with a crowbar to crack them free!
Havent noticed any adverse issues with the brakes since and they have cleaned themselves up.
Havent noticed any adverse issues with the brakes since and they have cleaned themselves up.
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