And we have ignition...! (But lots of bangs... help!)
Discussion
Fired the Chim up this afternoon with its new ECU installed. It took a while to get started due to me putting the trig wheel on 105 degrees the wrong way (doh!). Anyway after setting the software correction to 235 degrees BTDC it fired first time and seems to idle great (if a little fast). The only slight problem is that it appears to be running a tad rich given the strong smell of fuel and thick air that filled the garage. Also when running at 235 degrees, I get VERY LOUD bangs from the exhaust (no cats!) every few seconds, and lots more when touching the throttle... All I can think of is that the injector timings are too high and the timing is still out. I plan to take off the trig wheel and spin it round to the proper 90 degrees tomorrow and reset the ECU reference but what should I do about the bangs, would retarding the timing help? I'm pretty much a novice on this particular front so i'm learning as I go so any help would be lovely!
By the way, its running a base map for a 450 TVR engine running 'plenum & kent cam, 306bhp @6200 RPM'. I'm assuming then that this map is for a car running an H404 cam and a twin plenum, but my car is a 450 running an MC1 cam, 72mm plenum, ACT trumpets, induction & manifolds so perhaps the map doesnt fit too well?
Edit: I'm obviously not going to be able to get it perfect, but i'd like to get it good enough to drive 10 mins to the RR place! Failing that, i'll just have to tow it!
By the way, its running a base map for a 450 TVR engine running 'plenum & kent cam, 306bhp @6200 RPM'. I'm assuming then that this map is for a car running an H404 cam and a twin plenum, but my car is a 450 running an MC1 cam, 72mm plenum, ACT trumpets, induction & manifolds so perhaps the map doesnt fit too well?
Edit: I'm obviously not going to be able to get it perfect, but i'd like to get it good enough to drive 10 mins to the RR place! Failing that, i'll just have to tow it!
Edited by thenick on Monday 31st December 19:39
Nick, I'd certainly retard the static ign timing as a start
More than one Emerald convert has mentioned to me that the supplied maps can be a bit rough... I have one kindly supplied by Howard that might be a bit more civilised and could be worth a try... resend me your email addy
Sounds like a result that it went first go
More than one Emerald convert has mentioned to me that the supplied maps can be a bit rough... I have one kindly supplied by Howard that might be a bit more civilised and could be worth a try... resend me your email addy
Sounds like a result that it went first go
Hello Nick
Sounds like the whole ignition map is out as the reference point is mechanically out.
I'd stop and remove no.1 spark plug and crank the engine over by hand until its compressing then use a small bit of stiff wire to feel when the piston is it at TDC.
Then check your front pulley / trigger disc alignment.
Once you've got a TDC pulley mark you can trust, there's a facility in the software to lock the ignition at 20° then get the timing gun out and check its really 20 ° against your new TDC mark
Matt
Sounds like the whole ignition map is out as the reference point is mechanically out.
I'd stop and remove no.1 spark plug and crank the engine over by hand until its compressing then use a small bit of stiff wire to feel when the piston is it at TDC.
Then check your front pulley / trigger disc alignment.
Once you've got a TDC pulley mark you can trust, there's a facility in the software to lock the ignition at 20° then get the timing gun out and check its really 20 ° against your new TDC mark
Matt
Ok, took the trig wheel off today and put it back where it should be and it runs great now on that new map... The throttle response is just awesome! It doesn't idle very well at all though at the moment - it sits at around 1700 revs but I havent adjusted the idle screw in the plenum yet and I think the ICAV settings need sorting. Above this though it sounds awesome: I only had it to about 4500 revs when up to temp but I was still told that the house was shaking! 
One thing I did notice was that the rev counter didn't work... How is it meant to be wired up? From what I could see, it has 3 wires which make it work, a black one which I assume is ground. A green one which I haven't checked and a black/white one which I have attached the Emerald to as a guess. Shall I just swap this to the green one?
One thing I did notice was that the rev counter didn't work... How is it meant to be wired up? From what I could see, it has 3 wires which make it work, a black one which I assume is ground. A green one which I haven't checked and a black/white one which I have attached the Emerald to as a guess. Shall I just swap this to the green one?
trackcar said:
interesting to see the 306hp from the 450 TVR engine .. Ive mapped a 450 chimaera today on 72mm plenum and it made 305hp 
Carry on upping the game at that rate and those funny oddball AJP v8s will start being tossed out for Rover power 
Glad it's heading in the right direction Nick.... makes the hours I've spent on a coilpack bracket yeasterday/today seem a bit less tiresome (was having thoughts of leaving it on Lucas and ebaying the new gear)
trackcar said:
you'll need a tacho driver to replicate the couple-of-hundred volts that the collapsing primary field in the coil gives .. that drives the tacho signal on the black/white wire. emerald sell them.
One trick from the MegaSquirt guys is to connect the tacho output from the ECU to a relay coil. This produces an itsy bitsy teeny weeny version of the back EMF spike the coil produces, and may be enough to keep the tacho happy.Pupp said:
trackcar said:
interesting to see the 306hp from the 450 TVR engine .. Ive mapped a 450 chimaera today on 72mm plenum and it made 305hp
Carry on upping the game at that rate and those funny oddball AJP v8s will start being tossed out for Rover power Glad it's heading in the right direction Nick.... makes the hours I've spent on a coilpack bracket yeasterday/today seem a bit less tiresome (was having thoughts of leaving it on Lucas and ebaying the new gear)
On the tacho front, I wish Emerald had mentioned the tacho driver and included it in the package. What do you mean by relay coil Peter, just the switch side of a normal 12v relay? If this is likely to work then i'll give it a go tomorrow if I can find one...
Tomorrows job is to try and replace the clutch release arm as the old one has bent from the strong spring in the new clutch and master/slave cylinders (got one of those ones with a bar welded across to replace it). I'm hoping its not too much of a bad job but I can see it being tricky on axle stands through that small inspection hatch!
Getting the idle spot on will be a combo of all three, you need to see if the IACV is effecting idle speed first off.
First check the base spark map, you should have only 3-5° at the idle site otherwise the spark control can't add any more to increase the speed.
2nd try crimping the IACV hose with your fingers if this makes no odds then the idle screw is too far out
Once these two have an effect you change the settings in the emerald to the 'mapped position' so you can assign a percentage value to give a you the idle speed you want
Matt
First check the base spark map, you should have only 3-5° at the idle site otherwise the spark control can't add any more to increase the speed.
2nd try crimping the IACV hose with your fingers if this makes no odds then the idle screw is too far out
Once these two have an effect you change the settings in the emerald to the 'mapped position' so you can assign a percentage value to give a you the idle speed you want
Matt
Is it that all Emeralds installed into Griffs & Chimps will need a tacho driver, or only some?
Or does it depend on which of the several variations of instrument make and model you have?
Not sure which instrument type I have, but its a 1994 Griff 500 with black dials and digital odometer.
Anyone know if I will need the tacho driver or not?
Or does it depend on which of the several variations of instrument make and model you have?
Not sure which instrument type I have, but its a 1994 Griff 500 with black dials and digital odometer.
Anyone know if I will need the tacho driver or not?
Slatter said:
Nick im glad yours is all up and running .... all mine is sat in the box still just been too busy and stressed ... ex decided to leave!! oh well gettin some enthusiasm now.... fancy coming and helping getting it running for me when its all fitted ? !!!
Yep - mine too.. The other half got a bit insistant that I finish a few things around the 'ouse
Still in the box
thenick said:
Tomorrows job is to try and replace the clutch release arm as the old one has bent from the strong spring in the new clutch and master/slave cylinders (got one of those ones with a bar welded across to replace it). I'm hoping its not too much of a bad job but I can see it being tricky on axle stands through that small inspection hatch!
I don't think you can get the arm out without splitting the engine and box.Andy
Else said:
thenick said:
Tomorrows job is to try and replace the clutch release arm as the old one has bent from the strong spring in the new clutch and master/slave cylinders (got one of those ones with a bar welded across to replace it). I'm hoping its not too much of a bad job but I can see it being tricky on axle stands through that small inspection hatch!
I don't think you can get the arm out without splitting the engine and box.Andy
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