Retyred Taimar
Discussion
My partner [female] finds the steering on her Taimar too heavy. It is currently wearing 195/70x14H [as per Turbo?] rubber on period Wolfrace slots. My first thought was to revert to o/e 185x14H as these are narrower so should lighten things up. Unfortunately, I have been advised that these are no longer available, so without changing the wheels the options appear to be:
1. 185x14 but only T speed rated from an obscure brand [most tres of this size are van tyres!], safety/insurance thoughts, so I'm reluctant to go down this route,
2. or 185/70x14 available in the correct speed rating but I'm concerned about reducing the already minimal ground clearance as the car is in regular use, considering speed bumps.
3. remove the spare, safety considerations here?
4. get her to sell it? Reluctant to do this as we have spent a lot of time/money getting the car up and running, while we are unlikely to get much for it as prices seem pretty depressed at the moment.
Any thoughts out there?
1. 185x14 but only T speed rated from an obscure brand [most tres of this size are van tyres!], safety/insurance thoughts, so I'm reluctant to go down this route,
2. or 185/70x14 available in the correct speed rating but I'm concerned about reducing the already minimal ground clearance as the car is in regular use, considering speed bumps.
3. remove the spare, safety considerations here?
4. get her to sell it? Reluctant to do this as we have spent a lot of time/money getting the car up and running, while we are unlikely to get much for it as prices seem pretty depressed at the moment.
Any thoughts out there?
J666GRF]My partner [female said:
finds the steering on her Taimar too heavy. It is currently wearing 195/70x14H [as per Turbo?] rubber on period Wolfrace slots. My first thought was to revert to o/e 185x14H as these are narrower so should lighten things up. Unfortunately, I have been advised that these are no longer available, so without changing the wheels the options appear to be:
1. 185x14 but only T speed rated from an obscure brand [most tres of this size are van tyres!], safety/insurance thoughts, so I'm reluctant to go down this route,
2. or 185/70x14 available in the correct speed rating but I'm concerned about reducing the already minimal ground clearance as the car is in regular use, considering speed bumps.
3. remove the spare, safety considerations here?
4. get her to sell it? Reluctant to do this as we have spent a lot of time/money getting the car up and running, while we are unlikely to get much for it as prices seem pretty depressed at the moment.
Any thoughts out there?
I have never found any pre m or m that heavy? unless on seriously wide rubber are you sure that the suspension at the front is OK and the trunnions, bushes etc are not worn and properly lubricated? granted the steering will never be as light as a modern shoe box with power steering but it shouldn't be overly heavy.1. 185x14 but only T speed rated from an obscure brand [most tres of this size are van tyres!], safety/insurance thoughts, so I'm reluctant to go down this route,
2. or 185/70x14 available in the correct speed rating but I'm concerned about reducing the already minimal ground clearance as the car is in regular use, considering speed bumps.
3. remove the spare, safety considerations here?
4. get her to sell it? Reluctant to do this as we have spent a lot of time/money getting the car up and running, while we are unlikely to get much for it as prices seem pretty depressed at the moment.
Any thoughts out there?
The other option is to buy her a little fiesta and take on the M for yourself.
or buy her a gym membership.
N.
The easy solution is to fit a bigger steering wheel, even an increase of 1" in diamter can make a considerable difference.
Also has the car been fitted with a quicker steering rack (less turns lock to lock), if it has consider changing it back to a standard rack.
Daft question, is there the correct amount of air in the tyres?
All of the above will help.
davidy
Also has the car been fitted with a quicker steering rack (less turns lock to lock), if it has consider changing it back to a standard rack.
Daft question, is there the correct amount of air in the tyres?
All of the above will help.
davidy
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Yes the tyre pressures are o.k., I have increased the front tyre pressures to 24 psi-any more reduces self-centre-ing which isn't great at best.
The rack is standard so far as we know, certainly seems very low-geared compared to my S2 & Griff, rack is regularly greased, trunnions too, while they, upper balljoints and track rod ends all appear to be in good condition.
Yes the tyre pressures are o.k., I have increased the front tyre pressures to 24 psi-any more reduces self-centre-ing which isn't great at best.
The rack is standard so far as we know, certainly seems very low-geared compared to my S2 & Griff, rack is regularly greased, trunnions too, while they, upper balljoints and track rod ends all appear to be in good condition.
I have had 185x14x90 H rated Nankang tyres fitted to my Taimar at recomendation of local garage owner who is an enthusiast of classic sports cars. Good grip and seem to be wearing well. Standard suspension is designed for this size of tyre, Lower profile tyres are too stiff in the sidewall for road use unles you have much smoother roads than I have have.
The steering on an M should not really be to heavy, even with low profile and wider sections.
Try jacking the front up and support the car under the chassis, make sure the key is in the ingnition, so the steering lock does'nt come on, then grab the driver side wheel/tyre and move it back and fro in the direction of turn, you should be able to do it without massive effort, although it will feel notchy as the UJ's rotate.
If it's tight you need to start checking other things. I'd go for lossening the rack nut first (where the grease nipple is) if it goes loose on release it needs the shimmming adjusting.
As davidy says the trunnions should be oiled, not greased.
John.
Try jacking the front up and support the car under the chassis, make sure the key is in the ingnition, so the steering lock does'nt come on, then grab the driver side wheel/tyre and move it back and fro in the direction of turn, you should be able to do it without massive effort, although it will feel notchy as the UJ's rotate.
If it's tight you need to start checking other things. I'd go for lossening the rack nut first (where the grease nipple is) if it goes loose on release it needs the shimmming adjusting.
As davidy says the trunnions should be oiled, not greased.
John.
J666GRF said:
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Yes the tyre pressures are o.k., I have increased the front tyre pressures to 24 psi-any more reduces self-centre-ing which isn't great at best.
You say the self centring isn't that great so it would be worth getting the the castor angle checked as well as the camber and tracking. Also check that the U/J on the steering column is OK and that the steering column bush has been greased and isn't stiff.Yes the tyre pressures are o.k., I have increased the front tyre pressures to 24 psi-any more reduces self-centre-ing which isn't great at best.
DavidY said:
Bigger steering wheel then!
I obtained a Speedwell/Formula 15" woodrim on ebay [for appearance rather than steering effort]. It is a direct replacement for the standard black / leather-covered M series wheel (i.e. it has the weird square locating cutout so you don't need to fit a new boss). If you follow this route make sure you don't get a heavily dished one (unles your arms are much shorter than mine). Chris Witor (Whitor?) does a power steering conversion for Triumph 2000's. Since the TVR uses the same rack you could consider breaking new ground and have the only power steering TVR.
I could do with PAS for parking as with grippy wide tyres and takes two hands and considerable effort to move the wheel especially when I hurt my shoulder. It was embarrassing to only be able to turn the wheel when the car is moving slightly! The steering is not particularly delicate on an M so perhaps a bit of loss of "feel" would be worth it.
I could do with PAS for parking as with grippy wide tyres and takes two hands and considerable effort to move the wheel especially when I hurt my shoulder. It was embarrassing to only be able to turn the wheel when the car is moving slightly! The steering is not particularly delicate on an M so perhaps a bit of loss of "feel" would be worth it.
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