Rivets and floor tray
Rivets and floor tray
Author
Discussion

MisterX

Original Poster:

656 posts

279 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2008
quotequote all
Feedback after last week's MOT and service was that I should pretty soon book the car in for them to take the floor off and redo all the rivets. Apparently there is a known problem with cars of a certain age (mine is five years old). If I don't have the work done I can expect water ingress because the floor will drop. Any views from anyone who has had this done, or who has decided not to, would be welcome. Or any general comments from the Nobility of course....!!

RobP

2,097 posts

270 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2008
quotequote all
MisterX said:
Feedback after last week's MOT and service was that I should pretty soon book the car in for them to take the floor off and redo all the rivets. Apparently there is a known problem with cars of a certain age (mine is five years old). If I don't have the work done I can expect water ingress because the floor will drop. Any views from anyone who has had this done, or who has decided not to, would be welcome. Or any general comments from the Nobility of course....!!
Blimey..5yrs and you havn't had to re-seal the floor pan??. Mines coming up to 3yrs old and has had to be done twice. Car is garaged but if I need to drive in crappy winter weather (with salt and water)then that's what I do. My car also spends quite a lot of time up on ramps as it is serviced/spanner checked etc much more frequently than normal (because of track use), and even with the hydraulic arms being placed square on the jig points there will still be some slight twisting moment on the floor plate which does not help to keep it well sealed.
To drill out rivets, clean, reseal and re-rivet (with wider headed rivets than standard) will take about 10 hours for the 2 major plates under the seats. If you can do it yourself you'll save a lot of money...

art411y

832 posts

249 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2008
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my total floor pan was taken off recently and it revealed a fair bit of surface rust in all areas.The chassis was rust treated ,waxoyl injected and put back together with stainless self tappers so next time it will be easier to dismantle.Also while i was there all iomm water hoses from front to back were changed to silcone 3ply as the originals were falling to bits.Tried to do this on my driveway but,its near impossible

sean_goodman

536 posts

232 months

Thursday 3rd January 2008
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is the carpet bonded to the floor pan? o ris it just a case of drilling out the rivets and dropping the floor down leaving the carpet in place?

Biggriff

2,312 posts

313 months

Friday 4th January 2008
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did all my rivets with stainless steel. 675 of them (I am not popular at the garage!!)


NobleGuy

7,133 posts

244 months

Friday 4th January 2008
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art411y said:
Tried to do this on my driveway but,its near impossible
Yes. I did the diffuser which is far more accessible than some of the rest of the floor (andthey are screws not rivets) and even that took a weekend plus a few evenings of swearing profusely.

sean_goodman

536 posts

232 months

Saturday 5th January 2008
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any advice ref carpet being clued to floor pan or not?

alex s

2,105 posts

265 months

Saturday 5th January 2008
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sean_goodman said:
any advice ref carpet being clued to floor pan or not?
Carpet is glued to the floor pan in sections, they used contact adhesive, if you are carefull it all comes off in one piece, I have removed all the carpet and will use the old sections as templates for new. Also if you have a 3R or M400 you will have sound proofing under the carpet(I am guessing here).

I am going to add some sound proofing when mine goes back in, as new exhaust is going to be quite loud! Will only add 6 kgs to weight, so on a diet to lose the same, so no change in power to weight. smile

Alex

V6GTO

11,579 posts

271 months

Saturday 5th January 2008
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alex s said:
on a diet to lose the same, so no change in power to weight. smile

Alex
Don't go mad Alex, you already disappear when you turn sideways wink

Martin.