Removing chassis coating
Removing chassis coating
Author
Discussion

AlRaven

Original Poster:

408 posts

239 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2008
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I know there is a lot of previous on this but can anyone give me any tips on removing the old powder coating where it still firmly attached, especially where it's hard to get at like the top of the ouriggers.

I've ordered my POR15 kit so don't want to re-start any argument about coating types but any advice on cleaning/de-rusting most welcome.

dogbucket

1,254 posts

231 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2008
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80 grit paper looped over the top worked for me, although a fair amount of elbow grease required.

eng622

191 posts

258 months

Thursday 3rd January 2008
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I'm doing the same job on a Griff. Just the top of the tubes left to do. I'm going to try like Dogbucket but intend to super glue stips of 80 grit paper to nitrile or similar rubber to add strength

Ballistic Banana

14,706 posts

297 months

Thursday 3rd January 2008
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Why take it off if its still well bonded, just roughen up for next coat to get bond to?

BB

AlRaven

Original Poster:

408 posts

239 months

Thursday 3rd January 2008
quotequote all
Ballistic Banana said:
Why take it off if its still well bonded, just roughen up for next coat to get bond to?

BB
Will POR15 stick to roughened plastic coating then? I'm amazed at how well it's still attached in some places! I know I'll have to degrease it and try to get the old Waxoyl off as well.

P.S. If I do the wishbones, what do I do about coating the nuts should I avoid POR15 on them and just Waxoyl them or is POR15 ok on them?

Thanks for the help all.

schmokin1

1,223 posts

242 months

Saturday 5th January 2008
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i detempered a large hacksaw blade and bent it over the top of the rails. then you can scrape up and down and use the teeth to get off the bits of coating you dont like. But i have to say, if it's still well stuck on, you are going to have sooo much fun getting it off, it's better left on, scratched up so the POR or similar will stick, and painted over...

theaxe

3,571 posts

252 months

Sunday 6th January 2008
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AlRaven said:
Ballistic Banana said:
Why take it off if its still well bonded, just roughen up for next coat to get bond to?

BB
Will POR15 stick to roughened plastic coating then? I'm amazed at how well it's still attached in some places! I know I'll have to degrease it and try to get the old Waxoyl off as well.

P.S. If I do the wishbones, what do I do about coating the nuts should I avoid POR15 on them and just Waxoyl them or is POR15 ok on them?

Thanks for the help all.
POR 15 will stick to just about ANYTHING! If the existing coating is firm, clean and not covered in black gunk then just leave it.

As for getting POR 15 on the nuts, I'd be careful. The stuff is pretty much bullet proof. The same goes for getting it on your skin, it will NOT come off.

Finally, when it comes to re-sealing the tin. Use cling film or something between the lid and the tin. I foolishly thought that just cleaning both sealing surfaces with white spirit would be enough. The next time I came to use the tin I had to drill it open.

Edited by theaxe on Sunday 6th January 10:26

timshap

155 posts

314 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
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I am about to start on the outrigger tubes and usual wishbone components...could anyone tell me the best way to get paint and wax on the top of the tubes and into the front, middle and rear triangles etc...

Thanks

theaxe

3,571 posts

252 months

Saturday 12th January 2008
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Not sure on paint but Frost do a flexible tube with a 360 degree spray on the end that attaches to a Dinitrol can. It does a great job.

Geo28

262 posts

247 months

Saturday 12th January 2008
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Just finally finished painting wishbones and outriggers with por15 and finally coated with waxoyl (which got absolutely everywhere !!!)

Got the por15 from frost, recomend the kit which comes in 6 small tins 3 tins to paint onto rust and 3 tins for top coat.

Waxoyl came straight from halfords and I got the black stuff, get the round tin and the high pressure pump cos the other pump thats available does not work, spent an hour trying to get it working. Be warned, I managed to waxoyl the chassis and everything else in close vicinity including myself.

To rub down I got a wire brush which also had a scraper on end for hard to get to bits and a wire brush drill bit on my drill for most of the work.

Anything that wouldn't come off with the drill was deemed good enough to paint over.

To complete the job it took me many weekends as I could only stick to it for an hour or 2 at a time. (maybe cos I'm not used to getting my hands dirty boxedin ) I was working in a cramped garage with a pair of axle stands and normal scissor jack which was hard work.

It was worth it though as now I know that my chassis is OK and has plenty of protection to keep it that way for the next few years.

lwt

315 posts

314 months

Saturday 12th January 2008
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Bit late now, but one useful trick with the waxoyl pressure sprayer is to keep the can in a bucket of hot water to make the waxoyl thinner and easier to spray. Still doesn't stop the valve occassionaly jamming on though...

GreenV8S

31,027 posts

314 months

Saturday 12th January 2008
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lwt said:
Bit late now, but one useful trick with the waxoyl pressure sprayer is to keep the can in a bucket of hot water to make the waxoyl thinner and easier to spray. Still doesn't stop the valve occassionaly jamming on though...
It also helps to thin it slightly with white spirits.