330d won't start!
330d won't start!
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Gravy

Original Poster:

2,076 posts

263 months

Thursday 3rd January 2008
quotequote all
We have a 330d touring, 2001 year. It's done 96k and is a really nice runner.

We now unfortunately have a problem and I'm hoping someone can help!

It was taken for an MOT and oil service at our local garage. On picking the car up we noticed the service interval indicator hadn't been reset and so requested this was done before we left.
Matey boy gets in and pressed the reset buttons in a certain sequence on the dash binnacle, and says that he'd sorted it.

So we get in and notice it's still not reset, but can't be arsed to ask him to try again as he clearly doesn't know how to do it properly.

So we attempt to leave and the car won't start.

Turning the key made a couple of audible clicks and the headlights flashed twice.

Matey boy jump starts it, it runs, we swtich off, it starts again so we assume all is ok and off we go.

Now you know what is coming..........it won't start again after we park up on the drive!

So we get a new battery, install it and it starts.
Anyway, we don't run it for a couple of weeks and guess what, it doesn't start, but the same click noise and headlights twice flashing occur again.

There is absolutely no power anywhere, the battery is connected properly and can be jump started, but it won't keep it's charge.

Any ideas? Duff alternator or othwerwise? Is it perhaps a failsafe/immobiliser device on the electronics that the garage bloke inputted instead of resetting the service mileage indicator?

Your help would be most appreciated.

jamoor

14,506 posts

244 months

Friday 4th January 2008
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Possibly something draining the electrics? Is the battery flat?

Gravy

Original Poster:

2,076 posts

263 months

Friday 4th January 2008
quotequote all
Yeh it is now! I thought the same, but there wasn;t anything draining the battery prior to it going in the garage!

Coupe'-Racing

35 posts

261 months

Sunday 6th January 2008
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Hi

there is little point in chucking any more batteries at the car.
Get a meter and check the continuity from the battery positive to the input side of the front and rear fuse boxes as memory tells me there is an in-line fuse in the B+ RED battery cable.It would be worthwhile also checking if there is power to the battery jump start terminal near the brake master cylinder too.

Dont forget to disconnect the battery when carrying out the checks.

If this check is inconclusive - let me know and I will check the wiring diagram for you.

Cheers

Coupe' Racing




Gravy

Original Poster:

2,076 posts

263 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
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Thanks, sounds like aplan and I will duly do that. Will report back later this week as I am away with work at the mo.

StuB

6,695 posts

268 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
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You should be able to check what current draw is on the battery when the car's parked with the ignition off. It should be low/minimal and if it's not, then you need to get and look for things like boot/bonnet lights not switching off etc..

< FORZA WEST

1,038 posts

238 months

Tuesday 8th January 2008
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If you want to check the battery drain you need an ammeter.

disconnect the negative lead and place the ammeter inline - between neg cable and neg terminal (not as every one else do'es and put it neg to pos that just blows the meter up).

open doors and turn over locks including boot,open glove box

You will have a small charge enough to lock the car - press lock button twice (this will take out interior sensors)

You will see a 1/2 amp drain for a minute which gradually drops to 250 milliamps.You need to wait for 16 minutes,that is when the car goes to sleep.

At this point you want to see 40 milliamps max 70 dependant on spec.

if its higher,start to remove fuses until it drops.This will help find the circuit thats causing drain.

If you have any aftermarket phone kits,cd,changer,dvd its worth looking there first 9/10 its the main cause.