Buying a Bike of Ebay... What questions should I ask?
Discussion
Don't look at it tonight.
Never, ever, look at bikes at night; even the brightest lights hide scratches, imperfections and rust marks.
Always, always, always go in the daytime.
Then its the usual questions;
SHOW me the V5 (no, I don't believe it hasn't come back from DVLA yet), then check both the frame and engine numbers match exactly. Also, write down the name and address of the previous owner and phone him later to confirm mileage and condition of the bike when he sold it.
SHOW me something else that confirms your name and address is the same as on the V5 (no, I don't believe you have only just moved or that you are selling it for a friend/uncle/guy at work...),
SHOW me the receipts for the services (no, not the stamps in the book; anyone can get that done) and check they are for this bike and what mileage they were done at.
SHOW me all the mot's (not just the current one that was done after you swapped the speedo from that low mileage one off Ebay).
SHOW me a recent HPI check (or just do it yourself once you have the details).
Then its a case of checking the bike over from top to bottom and end to end.
Then do it again.
Then get your mate to do it.
Write down every little thing you are not happy (or even uncertain) with and look long and hard at the list before you click the "Bid Now" button.
If you're not happy, walk away; there are millions of motorbikes out there, you can always wait for the best one.
Never, ever, look at bikes at night; even the brightest lights hide scratches, imperfections and rust marks.
Always, always, always go in the daytime.
Then its the usual questions;
SHOW me the V5 (no, I don't believe it hasn't come back from DVLA yet), then check both the frame and engine numbers match exactly. Also, write down the name and address of the previous owner and phone him later to confirm mileage and condition of the bike when he sold it.
SHOW me something else that confirms your name and address is the same as on the V5 (no, I don't believe you have only just moved or that you are selling it for a friend/uncle/guy at work...),
SHOW me the receipts for the services (no, not the stamps in the book; anyone can get that done) and check they are for this bike and what mileage they were done at.
SHOW me all the mot's (not just the current one that was done after you swapped the speedo from that low mileage one off Ebay).
SHOW me a recent HPI check (or just do it yourself once you have the details).
Then its a case of checking the bike over from top to bottom and end to end.
Then do it again.
Then get your mate to do it.
Write down every little thing you are not happy (or even uncertain) with and look long and hard at the list before you click the "Bid Now" button.
If you're not happy, walk away; there are millions of motorbikes out there, you can always wait for the best one.
Edited by Rubin215 on Monday 7th January 18:42
I got my bike off ebay and didin't even go to see it first, just ask the normal questions but DONT PART WITH ANY MONEY ON EBAY, Go down with the cash. I made it clear that i would not be parting with any money if the bike did not have all relevent paper work to make sure it was all legit and that the bike was axcactly as it was described. Checked all bodywork and all the numbers twice against the logbook ect had it hpi checked and everything was good so bought it. I am not saying this is the best way to buy a bike but as long as you do it with a little knoledge and make sure everything checks out you should be fine. And if it sounds to good to be true it probably is.
Not that i disagree with Rubin,
But in my opinion it's a little OTT. Personally i have bought (and sold) lots of bikes off ebay. Be respectfull of the people, ask lots of questions and the best bit of advice i could give you would be to:
Do your research before you leave the house
Ask for the Registration Details, VIN number, engine number and the Number of the V5. Make sure you have all the details then do an RAC Vehicle or HPI check. Make sure it all ads up and then go see the vehicle. Ideally in the daytime but if you just want to have a gander there is no harm in taking a look during the night - just don't buy it then
You should be able to get a good idea if it's worth going for or not.
But in my opinion it's a little OTT. Personally i have bought (and sold) lots of bikes off ebay. Be respectfull of the people, ask lots of questions and the best bit of advice i could give you would be to:
Do your research before you leave the house
Ask for the Registration Details, VIN number, engine number and the Number of the V5. Make sure you have all the details then do an RAC Vehicle or HPI check. Make sure it all ads up and then go see the vehicle. Ideally in the daytime but if you just want to have a gander there is no harm in taking a look during the night - just don't buy it then
You should be able to get a good idea if it's worth going for or not. Rubin215 said:
Don't look at it tonight.
Never, ever, look at bikes at night; even the brightest lights hide scratches, imperfections and rust marks.
Always, always, always go in the daytime.
Then its the usual questions;
SHOW me the V5 (no, I don't believe it hasn't come back from DVLA yet), then check both the frame and engine numbers match exactly. Also, write down the name and address of the previous owner and phone him later to confirm mileage and condition of the bike when he sold it.
SHOW me something else that confirms your name and address is the same as on the V5 (no, I don't believe you have only just moved or that you are selling it for a friend/uncle/guy at work...),
SHOW me the receipts for the services (no, not the stamps in the book; anyone can get that done) and check they are for this bike and what mileage they were done at.
SHOW me all the mot's (not just the current one that was done after you swapped the speedo from that low mileage one off Ebay).
SHOW me a recent HPI check (or just do it yourself once you have the details).
Then its a case of checking the bike over from top to bottom and end to end.
Then do it again.
Then get your mate to do it.
Write down every little thing you are not happy (or even uncertain) with and look long and hard at the list before you click the "Bid Now" button.
If you're not happy, walk away; there are millions of motorbikes out there, you can always wait for the best one.
Never, ever, look at bikes at night; even the brightest lights hide scratches, imperfections and rust marks.
Always, always, always go in the daytime.
Then its the usual questions;
SHOW me the V5 (no, I don't believe it hasn't come back from DVLA yet), then check both the frame and engine numbers match exactly. Also, write down the name and address of the previous owner and phone him later to confirm mileage and condition of the bike when he sold it.
SHOW me something else that confirms your name and address is the same as on the V5 (no, I don't believe you have only just moved or that you are selling it for a friend/uncle/guy at work...),
SHOW me the receipts for the services (no, not the stamps in the book; anyone can get that done) and check they are for this bike and what mileage they were done at.
SHOW me all the mot's (not just the current one that was done after you swapped the speedo from that low mileage one off Ebay).
SHOW me a recent HPI check (or just do it yourself once you have the details).
Then its a case of checking the bike over from top to bottom and end to end.
Then do it again.
Then get your mate to do it.
Write down every little thing you are not happy (or even uncertain) with and look long and hard at the list before you click the "Bid Now" button.
If you're not happy, walk away; there are millions of motorbikes out there, you can always wait for the best one.
Edited by Rubin215 on Monday 7th January 18:42
I’ve bought quite a few bikes from E-Bay and as well as all the checks described above I ALWAYS take cash with me to agree a price and purchase the bike there and then. If you and the seller can agree a price there and then there should be no reason why you have to go home and bid on the computer and then go back again 10 days later to collect.
This has worked for me on all but one occasion where the seller would not accept my highest offer. I went home and won it for £200 less than I originally offered!! Lovely! Although in my experience it doesn’t usually work like this!
This has worked for me on all but one occasion where the seller would not accept my highest offer. I went home and won it for £200 less than I originally offered!! Lovely! Although in my experience it doesn’t usually work like this!
Good to hear other peoples experiences of e-bay. I have a bike for sale and was thinking about putting it on, however I done this a while back using my g/f's ebay account and found all so called interested parties a waste of time, put me off ever opening my own e-bay account or selling a pen on ebay. People seemed to assume that because you have it on ebay you just want to give your bike bike to the first bloke that offers a fiver for it, although I am selling through PH and other sites I would never entertain e-bay again, but that's just me. Lots of good advice otherwise, at least your buying and not selling, just don't assume he/she is desperate to get rid, they may just be testing the water, i.e if the right bid from the right buyer comes along then they probably will sell, but not to someone who thinks they will sell for a fraction of it's worth and who might wrap it round the first road sign they see.
Hope you get the bike you're after.
Barry.
I got the CBR from Ebay. All was fine - got a sound deal.
Until I discovered it was only doing 30mpg - and now have to get the fecker re-jetted, new airfilter, new battery etc.
All clear on HPI etc.
But I suppose after rejet etc, i'll still have saved money.
£900 for the bike, £200 for the battery, new brake lever and clutch lever (to replace the last owners naff fake carbon bits), new filter and jets. £220 for new tyres.
£1320 for a good condition CBR600F (95) isnt too bad.
Bring on the summer, i'll flog it for 1700 quid (on ebay) and put a deposit on an 848
Until I discovered it was only doing 30mpg - and now have to get the fecker re-jetted, new airfilter, new battery etc.
All clear on HPI etc.
But I suppose after rejet etc, i'll still have saved money.
£900 for the bike, £200 for the battery, new brake lever and clutch lever (to replace the last owners naff fake carbon bits), new filter and jets. £220 for new tyres.
£1320 for a good condition CBR600F (95) isnt too bad.
Bring on the summer, i'll flog it for 1700 quid (on ebay) and put a deposit on an 848
I tried the call the bloke a few times but couldn't get through, then I noticed that he had ended the auction early...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
JackHolroyde said:
I got the CBR from Ebay. All was fine - got a sound deal.
Until I discovered it was only doing 30mpg - and now have to get the fecker re-jetted, new airfilter, new battery etc.
All clear on HPI etc.
But I suppose after rejet etc, i'll still have saved money.
£900 for the bike, £200 for the battery, new brake lever and clutch lever (to replace the last owners naff fake carbon bits), new filter and jets. £220 for new tyres.
£1320 for a good condition CBR600F (95) isnt too bad.
Bring on the summer, i'll flog it for 1700 quid (on ebay) and put a deposit on an 848
£200 for a battery ! has it got gold terminals ?Until I discovered it was only doing 30mpg - and now have to get the fecker re-jetted, new airfilter, new battery etc.
All clear on HPI etc.
But I suppose after rejet etc, i'll still have saved money.
£900 for the bike, £200 for the battery, new brake lever and clutch lever (to replace the last owners naff fake carbon bits), new filter and jets. £220 for new tyres.
£1320 for a good condition CBR600F (95) isnt too bad.
Bring on the summer, i'll flog it for 1700 quid (on ebay) and put a deposit on an 848
Bizzle said:
Ask for the Registration Details, VIN number, engine number and the Number of the V5. Make sure you have all the details then do an RAC Vehicle or HPI check. Make sure it all ads up and then go see the vehicle. Ideally in the daytime but if you just want to have a gander there is no harm in taking a look during the night - just don't buy it then You should be able to get a good idea if it's worth going for or not.
To a seller I'd happily handover most details as above exept the v5 number, as it leaves you too open to scammers. They shouldn't really need the v5 document number to hpi, etc, though it would allow access to mot info etc, if it was a deal breaker I'd rather let them use my computer to see the extra info before they bought You should be able to get a good idea if it's worth going for or not. Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff