Polybush Problem
Discussion
I am fitting a set of Powerflex bushes to the rear of my Chimaera and there's something that concerns me.
The short bush on the top wishbone that shares a bolt with the top of the shock seems very loose on the inner sleeve of the new bush and can only cause problems as far as I can see. The other long bushes with smaller bolts are a much more snug fit on the inner sleeve.
Powerflex tell me to use the original bolts but what if mine was wrong to begin with?
What is the correct size to use?
Before you ask no I don't have the old bush, I kept it for ages then threw it away yesterday!
ETA - I just checked the bolt in the top of the shock and it's a nice snug fit, I suppose all I can do is assemble it and let Jools take a look when it goes to be set up properly.
The short bush on the top wishbone that shares a bolt with the top of the shock seems very loose on the inner sleeve of the new bush and can only cause problems as far as I can see. The other long bushes with smaller bolts are a much more snug fit on the inner sleeve.
Powerflex tell me to use the original bolts but what if mine was wrong to begin with?
What is the correct size to use?
Before you ask no I don't have the old bush, I kept it for ages then threw it away yesterday!
ETA - I just checked the bolt in the top of the shock and it's a nice snug fit, I suppose all I can do is assemble it and let Jools take a look when it goes to be set up properly.
Edited by RedCabbage on Thursday 10th January 17:49
I fitted a complete powerflex kit to mine, the only one that I had problems with were the top hat pin/dowl, the surface was all rugh were they machine them down and when pushed through the glacer bearing they acted like a file.
What is your problem
The bolt has play in the metal dowl or the dowl has lots of play in the glacer bearing.
If you speak to powerflex direct and agruge a bit (I did) they will send you some more to try.
But on all the bolts the dowl should slide over an there should be little play I never had a problem there.
What is your problem
The bolt has play in the metal dowl or the dowl has lots of play in the glacer bearing.
If you speak to powerflex direct and agruge a bit (I did) they will send you some more to try.
But on all the bolts the dowl should slide over an there should be little play I never had a problem there.
chrispitman said:
What age is your car, as I wonder if TVR use two sizes of bolts. I know that the rear diff mounting changed over the year but I dont know about the shook mounts.
As I mentioned earlier, having checked the bolt in the chassis and the shock bush (both snug fit) it would not be possible to use a bigger bolt without milling out these holes.The stainless tube inner on the new bush is just too loose so I'll try and get some replacements from Powerflex.
I have replaced and painted my whole suspension, complete strip and put back together and this was the first time I had done it. A few pointer I learnt.
One thing to remember when you remove the wishbones the camber will have to be setup again. I theory the tracking should be OK unless the bushes are shot, as the rear adjustment is part of the wishbone and you don't need to touch. Castor is fixed as long as you put the spacer back in the right side of the ball joint.
The front you could get away with removing the top and bottom wishbones leaving the ball joints attached to the hub arrangement.
The back becomes alittle more involved as you have a lot more bushes rather than ball joints, also the upright may need attention, to remove this gets quite involved due to bear hub and drive shafts. It may pay to just paint this part in situe and powdercoat the wishbones.
Just remember if you have lifted the body note which way bolts go in as when the body is on they can only go one way.
I think the most time was wasted on replacing the bushes, the TVR Metal ones are a pain to remove. Most try and cut them out, the mothod I used
If you go powerflex, get the wishbones warm and put the bushes in the frezer then assemble makes it loads easier.
Just make shure you keep all the bolts seperate for each corner as they vary in length.
One thing to remember when you remove the wishbones the camber will have to be setup again. I theory the tracking should be OK unless the bushes are shot, as the rear adjustment is part of the wishbone and you don't need to touch. Castor is fixed as long as you put the spacer back in the right side of the ball joint.
The front you could get away with removing the top and bottom wishbones leaving the ball joints attached to the hub arrangement.
The back becomes alittle more involved as you have a lot more bushes rather than ball joints, also the upright may need attention, to remove this gets quite involved due to bear hub and drive shafts. It may pay to just paint this part in situe and powdercoat the wishbones.
Just remember if you have lifted the body note which way bolts go in as when the body is on they can only go one way.
I think the most time was wasted on replacing the bushes, the TVR Metal ones are a pain to remove. Most try and cut them out, the mothod I used
If you go powerflex, get the wishbones warm and put the bushes in the frezer then assemble makes it loads easier.
Just make shure you keep all the bolts seperate for each corner as they vary in length.
Duncan, the suspension bolts AFAIK were all 1/2" UNF, you will have used 3/4" spanner for them.
If you've fitted the other bushes,you will know the correct'feel' as the stainless bush slides into the DU (glacier bush).
If it's sloshing around like a chod in the pot don't fit it.
When I bought mine the 'top hat' stainless bushes, which fit on the lower rear front wishbone were not the correct size as were about 15 of the poly bushes. The poly bushes were changed straight away and I sorted the stainless ones. So it is possible yours are not correct.
ETA just re read your post it's not that fit your on about is it?
Same applies though too slack don't fit it
If you've fitted the other bushes,you will know the correct'feel' as the stainless bush slides into the DU (glacier bush).
If it's sloshing around like a chod in the pot don't fit it.
When I bought mine the 'top hat' stainless bushes, which fit on the lower rear front wishbone were not the correct size as were about 15 of the poly bushes. The poly bushes were changed straight away and I sorted the stainless ones. So it is possible yours are not correct.
ETA just re read your post it's not that fit your on about is it?
Same applies though too slack don't fit it
Edited by ray_von on Friday 11th January 15:10
chrispitman said:
I theory the tracking should be OK unless the bushes are shot, as the rear adjustment is part of the wishbone and you don't need to touch.
Unfortunately that is the setting which is most neglected I think! I would advise it to be checked as a matter of course - it is the setting (or not?) that is responsible for most unpredictable back ends on these cars IMHO, and quite commonly seized solid (a testament to the fact it has never been checked / adjusted...)Dave
spend said:
chrispitman said:
I theory the tracking should be OK unless the bushes are shot, as the rear adjustment is part of the wishbone and you don't need to touch.
Unfortunately that is the setting which is most neglected I think! I would advise it to be checked as a matter of course - it is the setting (or not?) that is responsible for most unpredictable back ends on these cars IMHO, and quite commonly seized solid (a testament to the fact it has never been checked / adjusted...)Dave
I have taken the time to free off my rear tracking adjustment nuts/tubes while the wishbones are off the car, and I'm glad I did as they were indeed solid. Despite numerous bills in the cars history file for suspension work this adjustment has been largely ignored. (Probably because they were seized!)
The wear in all the bushes and resulting movement of the suspension components must have made for an interesting set up. If only I had taken some readings before pulling it apart.
Once back together the car will go for a geometry set up which is well worth the money if it is a full set up, but worth very little if one adjustment is left as found.
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