Changing Dash

[gilesw]

Am thinking of removing my cracked veneer dash and replacing it with the stainless option from Leven. I've had the dash top off and have replaced the nuts with wingnuts to make lifting it on and off easier (as suggested here I believe).

I've only looked at the inner working briefly, but before I decide to order the dash I had a few questions. I've read the article on chimaerapages.com, but from the point of getting the top off, how easy is it to actually replace the dash? ie:

How easy is it to remove the instruments? Do they just clip off? Are all the connections made with pluggable connectors? Is there any soldering involved?

I believe the heater controls are difficult to remove intact. Exactly how difficult are we talking here?

Does the dash itself just pull out, or is it fixed in in some way? (I gave it a bit of a tug but it wasn't budging. Didn't want to break it...)

Chimaerapages mentions that some of the warning lights need to be re-glued. Does that imply they need to be snapped off the original dash? Is there a knack to doing this without breaking them?

That's quite a few questions... Cheers.

[Chris Smith]

I just did mine and it was really simple. The instruments have brackets holding them on individually. You just undo the securing nuts (by fingers), remove the bracket, unplug the instrument connectors and remove. Heater controls are 3 small nuts. LEDs can be tricky. You might be lucky and they just push through - if not there is a lady selling a kit on ebay for about £15, which has all 4 leds with the correct resistors already included in a neat shrink wrap; all you do is connect the wires to your old ones and glue in. On my lower dash panel (1995), I also had to take the securing brackets of the old steel backing and reglue (with araldite) onto the new dash. As I say, it was really simple. The Leven dash is a great product (if you don't mind moving away from the veneer look) and it won't crack! If you have any questions, they are a friendly bunch at Leven and happy to answer as many questions as you have over the phone. Otherwise, you can generally get your old one recovered for around the same price as a Leven dash - just be careful who you chose else you may get the new one cracking quicker than you thought!

[Cider Andy]

gilesw said:

How easy is it to remove the instruments? Do they just clip off? Are all the connections made with pluggable connectors? Is there any soldering involved?

All the instrument connectors are 'Lucar' spades that just pull off. Lampholders just push into each instrument. As already answered each gauge has a bracket held on with thumbscrews.

gilesw said:

I believe the heater controls are difficult to remove intact. Exactly how difficult are we talking here?

Again, as already answered, the dash panel is screwed on to the heater control mounting bracket with three nuts and bolts. This bracket is screwed on to the dash base with two screws. It's easiest to remove these first so the heater controls are then left bolted to the dash panel. The LEDs are glued into this bracket and you might find the glue has got between it and the dash panel and the LEDs may break when you prise the two apart.

gilesw said:

Does the dash itself just pull out, or is it fixed in in some way? (I gave it a bit of a tug but it wasn't budging. Didn't want to break it...)

It's naturally flat: the curve in it appears when it's mounted. The front face is up against the trim (as you see it with the top on). Behind it are a couple of 'L' brackets that are rivetted to the dash base. The back of the dash panel rests against the uprights formed by the 'L' brackets. So it's not fixed as such, just wedged in.

gilesw said:

Chimaerapages mentions that some of the warning lights need to be re-glued. Does that imply they need to be snapped off the original dash? Is there a knack to doing this without breaking them?

I think luck plays a part here....

I found it simpler to remove the gauges one by one with the dash panel in place then reconnect them and leave them sitting on the dash base. That way you avoid mixing up any of the wiring.

Warning lights and fan switch are different depending on the age of the car, but once the dash top is off it's evident how they come apart.

[Woody_450]

Here's how I did it...

Clicky Linky

Rich

[Al 450]

Al 450 said:

gilesw said:

Am thinking of removing my cracked veneer dash and replacing it with the stainless option from Leven. I've had the dash top off and have replaced the nuts with wingnuts to make lifting it on and off easier (as suggested here I believe).

I've only looked at the inner working briefly, but before I decide to order the dash I had a few questions. I've read the article on chimaerapages.com, but from the point of getting the top off, how easy is it to actually replace the dash? ie:

How easy is it to remove the instruments? Do they just clip off? Are all the connections made with pluggable connectors? Is there any soldering involved?

I believe the heater controls are difficult to remove intact. Exactly how difficult are we talking here?

Does the dash itself just pull out, or is it fixed in in some way? (I gave it a bit of a tug but it wasn't budging. Didn't want to break it...)

Chimaerapages mentions that some of the warning lights need to be re-glued. Does that imply they need to be snapped off the original dash? Is there a knack to doing this without breaking them?

That's quite a few questions... Cheers.

Taking the dash top off is the hard bit, the rest is just time. Heater controls and instruments are easy. There are two tricky parts, firstly the LED's for the HVAC because they are glued in. It's easy to damage them getting them out and they are very fiddly. The second is the Dash warning LED's such as the MIL lamp and main beam LED etc. I had to unsolder them then resolder again once they were fitted to the new dash as they are fitted from the front but wired from the back. -Edited to say:-Doh! Just seen in the guide above that you can pull the LED's out! That's probably easier...

Make sure you tape or cover all sharp metal bits whilst you are struggling with the dash and top as it's easy to scratch the leather. You will also need some strong glue to fix a couple of brackets onto the new dash that you will have to prise from the old one. Araldite is good. These have to be in EXACTLY the right place!

While you're there you can also screw down all the bits the factory never bothered with like the alarm ecu!

Have fun, this took me about two or three evenings last summer.

[gilesw]

Thanks for all the tips! I shall print this out, along with Woody's very useful blog page, and order my new dash (possibly with some new dash buttons). It will probably involve me spending a weekend panicking with the car in bits! I will have a go at fitting the hot-start mod while I wait for the dash to arrive...

[Aubrey]

Woody_450 said:

Here's how I did it...

Clicky Linky

Rich

Just thought I'd say Woody, what a great guide! That will come in handy Thanks.