Leccy Question
Discussion
Ok got home from work last night to find Landy all alone with with just the headlights on..... On inspection all switches are in the off position....Brain sweats for a bit and after removing the fuses remamber that this can be caused by the dim/dip relay 
I fit the spare one I have kicking around and hey presto lights back to normal 
Tonight TOH is crossing a main A road when kaput all lights dead
. Luckily the lights worked for her if she held them on flash and she was only 2 minutes from home.
New dim/dip on order but what could cause this? Unit fitted had been kicking around my garage for a couple of years...........
I fit the spare one I have kicking around and hey presto lights back to normal Tonight TOH is crossing a main A road when kaput all lights dead
. Luckily the lights worked for her if she held them on flash and she was only 2 minutes from home.New dim/dip on order but what could cause this? Unit fitted had been kicking around my garage for a couple of years...........
Hi, Ive had some problems with these when high power bulbs have been fitted.
It is not neccessary to use the dim dip unit, you can just wire it out of the circuit.
Dim dip was introduced in the 90`s as a road safety feature and was compulsary on all new cars for a couple of years, but this was repealed as it caused many problems on cars due to high temperatures inside the dim dip resistors!
Cheers Roy
It is not neccessary to use the dim dip unit, you can just wire it out of the circuit.
Dim dip was introduced in the 90`s as a road safety feature and was compulsary on all new cars for a couple of years, but this was repealed as it caused many problems on cars due to high temperatures inside the dim dip resistors!
Cheers Roy
That unit looks the same is mine from 1987 RR Classic.
Mine went wrong so you simply unplug it. There is no bypass requirement.
Pin 3 is constant 12v input.
Pin 5 is feed from side lights so it knows you have side lights on.
Pin 1 is oil pressure switch so it knows the engine is running.
Pin 4 is high beam. If you are on high beam it switches out the dim/dip.
Pin 2 is the output to the dip beams. This will be half power giving the 'Dim'.
As none of your lights pass through it you can see that it can simply be unplugged.
Steve
Mine went wrong so you simply unplug it. There is no bypass requirement.
Pin 3 is constant 12v input.
Pin 5 is feed from side lights so it knows you have side lights on.
Pin 1 is oil pressure switch so it knows the engine is running.
Pin 4 is high beam. If you are on high beam it switches out the dim/dip.
Pin 2 is the output to the dip beams. This will be half power giving the 'Dim'.
As none of your lights pass through it you can see that it can simply be unplugged.
Steve
Steve_D said:
That unit looks the same is mine from 1987 RR Classic.
Mine went wrong so you simply unplug it. There is no bypass requirement.
Pin 3 is constant 12v input.
Pin 5 is feed from side lights so it knows you have side lights on.
Pin 1 is oil pressure switch so it knows the engine is running.
Pin 4 is high beam. If you are on high beam it switches out the dim/dip.
Pin 2 is the output to the dip beams. This will be half power giving the 'Dim'.
As none of your lights pass through it you can see that it can simply be unplugged.
Steve
Thanks for that I've narrowed it down to a faulty switch hopefully this will cure it Mine went wrong so you simply unplug it. There is no bypass requirement.
Pin 3 is constant 12v input.
Pin 5 is feed from side lights so it knows you have side lights on.
Pin 1 is oil pressure switch so it knows the engine is running.
Pin 4 is high beam. If you are on high beam it switches out the dim/dip.
Pin 2 is the output to the dip beams. This will be half power giving the 'Dim'.
As none of your lights pass through it you can see that it can simply be unplugged.
Steve
Back to basics,
Do you have side lights?
Any headlights?
Headlight flash?
With the light switch on and dip selected, can you switch on the rear fog?
Are the fuses sound? There may be 4 fuses one for each headlight function.
Steve
Edit.... Yes just remembered my RR Classic does have a relay. It is mounted on the engine bulkhead in the engine bay. Try looking for a relay with Brown, Black, Blue and Blue/Green.
Do you have side lights?
Any headlights?
Headlight flash?
With the light switch on and dip selected, can you switch on the rear fog?
Are the fuses sound? There may be 4 fuses one for each headlight function.
Steve
Edit.... Yes just remembered my RR Classic does have a relay. It is mounted on the engine bulkhead in the engine bay. Try looking for a relay with Brown, Black, Blue and Blue/Green.
Edited by Steve_D on Friday 25th January 22:52
Edited by Steve_D on Friday 25th January 22:54
Steve_D said:
Back to basics,
Do you have side lights?
Any headlights?
Headlight flash?
With the light switch on and dip selected, can you switch on the rear fog?
Are the fuses sound? There may be 4 fuses one for each headlight function.
Steve
yes side lights and dimmed head as per dim/dip relay.Do you have side lights?
Any headlights?
Headlight flash?
With the light switch on and dip selected, can you switch on the rear fog?
Are the fuses sound? There may be 4 fuses one for each headlight function.
Steve
Yes head light flash.
yes fog
yes good fuses
I'm stumped
Which switch have you just replaced?
This is looking like it is a problem with the column stalk.
To follow the circuit (or my assumption of the circuit as I don't know the model) +12v comes to the light switch which must be working as you have HL flash and fog. It may then go to a relay which saves the light switch from having to carry heavy loads. HL flash works so this relay must also be working. It then arrives at the stalk where the +12v is passed to dip, high or flash. If flash is working then power is coming in and going out through the flash contacts but not the normal contacts.
All I am left with is the stalk contacts are burnt out or broken.
If you come back and say it was the stork you replaced then I will be as confused as you.
Steve
This is looking like it is a problem with the column stalk.
To follow the circuit (or my assumption of the circuit as I don't know the model) +12v comes to the light switch which must be working as you have HL flash and fog. It may then go to a relay which saves the light switch from having to carry heavy loads. HL flash works so this relay must also be working. It then arrives at the stalk where the +12v is passed to dip, high or flash. If flash is working then power is coming in and going out through the flash contacts but not the normal contacts.
All I am left with is the stalk contacts are burnt out or broken.
If you come back and say it was the stork you replaced then I will be as confused as you.
Steve
Just noticed an error in my logic.
I said the switch and relay must be working as high beam flash was working but this is not true. Flash will work without the lights turned on and probably without even the ignition on.
So it could still be either the light switch or the relay.
Time to get out the multimeter and go looking for +12V or the lack of it.
Steve
I said the switch and relay must be working as high beam flash was working but this is not true. Flash will work without the lights turned on and probably without even the ignition on.
So it could still be either the light switch or the relay.
Time to get out the multimeter and go looking for +12V or the lack of it.
Steve
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