what's a proper oil pressure?
what's a proper oil pressure?
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Discussion

panic

Original Poster:

817 posts

313 months

Friday 25th January 2008
quotequote all
My griffith 500, rebuilt a few hundres miles ago, with the engine warmed up shows a bit below 15 psi reading at idle, around 15 at mid rev range and in the 30 psi territory when at high revs...is that a healthy pressure? It seems a bit low to me...
Oil engine is a fresh 5/50 mobil one...
What do you think?ears

Ballistic Banana

14,706 posts

297 months

Friday 25th January 2008
quotequote all
Sounds low to me. Most read around 15-20 at idle and rise to over 30 on the move. Maybe some thicker oil wouldnt go a miss especially as your in a hotter country cool


BB

panic

Original Poster:

817 posts

313 months

Friday 25th January 2008
quotequote all
It does sound low to me too...i live in northern spain at the moment, weather is mild but for sure is not as warm as the mediterranean spanish climate, also now is full winter and the mobil one is not a very 'liquid' oil either...could we say that there is the posibility of an oil pump failure? I dont know, the engine runs strong now (finally after all the electric gremlins...)...

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Friday 25th January 2008
quotequote all
Get the pressure checked with a calibrated instrument before doing anything IMHO.

Dave

Markh

2,781 posts

305 months

Saturday 26th January 2008
quotequote all
panic said:
My griffith 500, rebuilt a few hundres miles ago, with the engine warmed up shows a bit below 15 psi reading at idle, around 15 at mid rev range and in the 30 psi territory when at high revs...is that a healthy pressure? It seems a bit low to me...
Oil engine is a fresh 5/50 mobil one...
What do you think?ears
Also don't forget the TVR gauges are not the most accurate at the best of times

stefan1200

98 posts

267 months

Saturday 26th January 2008
quotequote all
I'm also using the Mobil 5/50 with almost the same pressure indication as yours. Check the oil pressure indication with engine off and ignition on. On my car it doesn't show zero but approximately 10 psi lower, resulting in an overall lower pressure indication. There was a post from David Beer suggesting a resistor across the oil pressure sender to get the pointer to zero. If you want to make sure take Spends advice and check with a calibrated instrument.

panic

Original Poster:

817 posts

313 months

Sunday 27th January 2008
quotequote all
..I've found one of the valve covers gasket blown, and from a small hole in it some oil goes out when engine's warm....could it be the cause of the pressure drop??

should i stop driving the griff until i fix it?

Simpo Two

92,829 posts

295 months

Sunday 27th January 2008
quotequote all
15 and 30 sounds fine to me - mine's the same now that I use a decent oil (10/60 IIRC).

(edited to say 'now' and not 'not')


Useing the 'recommended' Mobil One pisswater it used to drop almost to 0 on a hot day.

Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 29th January 18:07

Toffer

1,528 posts

291 months

Tuesday 29th January 2008
quotequote all
Totally agree with Simpo...I originally used MOBIL One in my Griff, switched to the SHELL fully synthetic which quietened things down and increased idle oil pressure and have for the last couple of years used CASTROL Edge Formula RS 10-60 Motor Sport oil....expensive but honestly the best so far! Buy it in the petrol station and it will cost you around £17.00/litre, look on ebay and pay about £7.50/litre including postage from Germany!

tvr4ever

644 posts

290 months

Tuesday 29th January 2008
quotequote all
Toffer said:
Totally agree with Simpo...I originally used MOBIL One in my Griff, switched to the SHELL fully synthetic which quietened things down and increased idle oil pressure and have for the last couple of years used CASTROL Edge Formula RS 10-60 Motor Sport oil....expensive but honestly the best so far! Buy it in the petrol station and it will cost you around £17.00/litre, look on ebay and pay about £7.50/litre including postage from Germany!
Been using Castol RS 10W60 for 5 years now, i can't agree more, excellent oil. Castrol is in my engine, gearbox (Transmax-Z) and dif (SAF-XJ). Over here we pay 42 euros for 4 liters.

Fred

panic

Original Poster:

817 posts

313 months

Tuesday 29th January 2008
quotequote all
Somewhere (i think in a steve griffith book...) i've read that large displacement rover V8's enjoy high viscosity oils (....60) and to be plenty inside, also if i well remember he was pointing out the motul 15/60 as the best, and more expensive though, oil for the griffith...

mcosh

289 posts

276 months

Thursday 31st January 2008
quotequote all
I have always used 5-50 but as the car has got older (66k now) on advice from my expert use 15-50 Mobile 1. This clings a little better. As for pressure my gauge has always show 10-40 the 10 when she really hot and just ticking over. So far the engine sweet and I have had no problems.

Mark

dnb

3,330 posts

272 months

Thursday 31st January 2008
quotequote all
I've always used 15W50 Magnatec. It was recomended by Dave Batty, and since the engine has done well over 100k miles on the stuff I see no reason to change.

My pressure gauge reads silly at the moment though - 40 PSI warm idle and 60+ PSI with some revs! I'm going to change the sender over the weekend.

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Friday 1st February 2008
quotequote all
panic said:
..I've found one of the valve covers gasket blown, and from a small hole in it some oil goes out when engine's warm....could it be the cause of the pressure drop??

should i stop driving the griff until i fix it?
The hole in the gasket in the valve cover will not cause a pressure drop as the engine is not pressurised by the oil system.. you should get it fixed though as the part cost < £5 and the oil could catch fire on the exhaust !


panic

Original Poster:

817 posts

313 months

Friday 1st February 2008
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
panic said:
..I've found one of the valve covers gasket blown, and from a small hole in it some oil goes out when engine's warm....could it be the cause of the pressure drop??

should i stop driving the griff until i fix it?
The hole in the gasket in the valve cover will not cause a pressure drop as the engine is not pressurised by the oil system.. you should get it fixed though as the part cost < £5 and the oil could catch fire on the exhaust !
...Already fixed biggrin

Edited by panic on Friday 1st February 12:55

The AJP Griff

4,360 posts

285 months

Friday 1st February 2008
quotequote all
I notice that nobody has mentioned that a serp and a pre-serp have different values of oil pressure when healthy.On all 3 of my serp engines the pressure has been just under the 45psi mark at 3k+ revs,30+psi at 2k+ revs,and 20psi+ at tickover,minimum,even when very hot in summer traffic.The gauge takes time to react to change in pressure on the serp engines,due to the different type of pump fitted(constant volume),so dont expect instant pressure changes on varing engine revs.All the figures i've quoted are when up to temp,and using a 50w oil.
I've never had a pre-serp,but i've always thought,and been led to beleive,that 15+psi idle,and 30+psi at revs is ok for these when warmed up?

Edited by The AJP Griff on Sunday 3rd February 21:45

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Friday 1st February 2008
quotequote all
I'm not sure about that Mike... My pre-serp never goes below 30psi (vhot idle) with 15W-50 synth, and 50-60psi at chat. At a recent flush out I used some cheap synth, and it struggled to maintain 10psi idle (and I wasn't even daring to get it very hot). The oil does seem to make a mega difference so I'm not sure we are always comparing apples in this pre-serp/serp debate?

The real advantage of the later oil pump is removing the weak point of the drive from the cam IMHO.

The oil used seems to vary greatly, and is particularly susceptible to temperature. In this case I don't think the oils we use over here will be suitable for panic. It is with good reason that S Europe has a predominantly different range of oils on sale to those in the cooler Northern climes. Many of us are very loyal to specific oil brands with good reason, it is pretty damned expensive to find a good one that works well - so once we find a suitable oil we tend to stick with it wink

Dave

macdeb

8,759 posts

285 months

Friday 1st February 2008
quotequote all
Well, I had one pre-serp' [15 psi idle + 35 psi running] and two serp's [30 idle + 45 running] Seems right and no problems with either as far as oil is concerned. I used to be obsessed with gauge watching, but don't bother so much now. Don't think you've anything to worry about to be honest.

Bluebottle

3,498 posts

270 months

Saturday 2nd February 2008
quotequote all
dnb said:
I've always used 15W50 Magnatec. It was recomended by Dave Batty, and since the engine has done well over 100k miles on the stuff I see no reason to change.

My pressure gauge reads silly at the moment though - 40 PSI warm idle and 60+ PSI with some revs! I'm going to change the sender over the weekend.
I run Mobil Race in mine and get 30psi idle and 60psi running, fresh engine and new pressure sender. My old pre-serp used to run scary low pressures 15/30psi and would drop to zero on idle when the oil was cooked.

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Saturday 2nd February 2008
quotequote all
Bluebottle said:
I run Mobil Race in mine and get 30psi idle and 60psi running, fresh engine and new pressure sender. My old pre-serp used to run scary low pressures 15/30psi and would drop to zero on idle when the oil was cooked.
What oil were you using in your 'old pre-serp' though?

Dave