Ferrari F355 - Revving high after new cats fitted
Discussion
Is there anyone out there who can give me some advice? I have a 1997 F355 Spider which had the cats removed before I bought it.
The car was extremely loud, so after almost going deaf and getting complaints from the neighbours, I bit the bullet and had new cats put on.
However, the car now frequently idles anywhere between 1500 and 2000 revs - very annoying - especially in traffic. The car has been checked out for air leaks and verified that all sensor plugs are connected correctly.
Any ideas/suggestions/experiences gratefully received.
The car was extremely loud, so after almost going deaf and getting complaints from the neighbours, I bit the bullet and had new cats put on.
However, the car now frequently idles anywhere between 1500 and 2000 revs - very annoying - especially in traffic. The car has been checked out for air leaks and verified that all sensor plugs are connected correctly.
Any ideas/suggestions/experiences gratefully received.
Thanks for the reply. The battery wasn't disconnected whilst the cats were being done.
I'd say it's done about 150 miles since the new cats have been on. It does behave itself sometimes, but not consistent in terms of whether engine warm or cold etc. Dipping clutch also makes it rev higher.
Cheers
I'd say it's done about 150 miles since the new cats have been on. It does behave itself sometimes, but not consistent in terms of whether engine warm or cold etc. Dipping clutch also makes it rev higher.
Cheers
As suggested above, check (or have somebody check) the exhaust sensors, especially the air flow meters. It sounds like a straight forward sensor problem. It could just be coincidental that a sensor has gone/come dislodged or something as trivial as that.
Hope the problem gets sorted.
Hope the problem gets sorted.
Have you checked that there are no air leaks between the airbox to the throttles (my afms were connected to the airbox). Its easy to see if the throttles are closing smoothly by popping off the ducts at either side of the plenum (might just be a snag stopping the butterfly closing fully). Also check carefully the idle control (stepper motor) pipes and electrical connector - its near the front of the Y IIRC.
Sounds like they may have just not connected something back properly after dismantling to get access.
Dave
Sounds like they may have just not connected something back properly after dismantling to get access.
Dave
I would suspect that any good competent garage that regularly does diagnostic work, might be able to look at it.
Although far too many people rely on simply plugging a scanner in, and hoping it tells them what is wrong, because they dont know how everything works.
O2 sensors are possible...and relatively cheap to swap.
http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/mindex.htm
And here some brief info on testing. Basically when running, if closed loop and the sensors are working, you should see rapid changes around the stioch point.
http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/mtesting.htm
But high revving would suggest extra air getting into the engine somehow. Whether by idle control, air leaks, sticking throttle etc etc.
That would account for a high idle...but not necessarily an erratic idle.
Although far too many people rely on simply plugging a scanner in, and hoping it tells them what is wrong, because they dont know how everything works.
O2 sensors are possible...and relatively cheap to swap.
http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/mindex.htm
And here some brief info on testing. Basically when running, if closed loop and the sensors are working, you should see rapid changes around the stioch point.
http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/mtesting.htm
But high revving would suggest extra air getting into the engine somehow. Whether by idle control, air leaks, sticking throttle etc etc.
That would account for a high idle...but not necessarily an erratic idle.
Have you checked Ferrari's built in idle increasing device ........the floor mats have a funny habbit of riding up onto the base of the throttle pedal 
Failing that reset the ECU by either unplugging the battery or pluggin it into a diagnostic box......which will of course tell you if the lamba probes / exhaust ecus / maf etc are functioning correctly

Failing that reset the ECU by either unplugging the battery or pluggin it into a diagnostic box......which will of course tell you if the lamba probes / exhaust ecus / maf etc are functioning correctly
rev-erend said:
skid-mark said:
could be faulty temp sender on the coolant side and is telling the ecu to put more fuel in
More fuel does not make it rev..Extra air like a leak makes it rev..
Weird aint'it.
i'm not doubting any thing that has been said on here i'm just trying to give a different point of view of what could be wrong these are quite common for being faulty on many of the cars i've worked on in the past.
another thing is to check all the multi-plugs to the sensors and throttle housing are all pushed on firmly or don't have corroded terminals inside, plus any vacuum pipes even check the servo pipe for the brakes seen these things split in the past or the one way valve leak.
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