Outriggers and expandy foam...
Discussion
Now first let me say I haven't taken leave of my senses and I probably won't do this but has anyone ever put expanding foam over their outriggers? 
Sounds mad at first but bear with me here. Having raised the body it looks to me like the major cause of outrigger corrosion isn't so much the loss of paint caused by the outriggers getting shot blasted in the wheel tracks, but more a case of a small build up of road dust over time accumulates above the mounting plates and gets trapped in the recess where the chassis tube curves away from the body. This fine dust then traps moisture above the body mounting plates and holds it into contact with the steel hence every case of rot I've seen pictures of is always above these plates.
I had considered putting some silicon in there but there are two downsides to this. The moisture will still get there from the gap above the outrigger rails and it will also hamper drainage so I kinda gave up on the idea and was going to stick with waxoyl and underseal on the areas that I won't be able to inspect once the body goes back on.
Someone suggested expanding foam and I laughed about it at the time, but if you think about it there could be some mileage in the idea.
So do people think it's completely barking or could it actually help prevent corrosion?
Sounds mad at first but bear with me here. Having raised the body it looks to me like the major cause of outrigger corrosion isn't so much the loss of paint caused by the outriggers getting shot blasted in the wheel tracks, but more a case of a small build up of road dust over time accumulates above the mounting plates and gets trapped in the recess where the chassis tube curves away from the body. This fine dust then traps moisture above the body mounting plates and holds it into contact with the steel hence every case of rot I've seen pictures of is always above these plates.
I had considered putting some silicon in there but there are two downsides to this. The moisture will still get there from the gap above the outrigger rails and it will also hamper drainage so I kinda gave up on the idea and was going to stick with waxoyl and underseal on the areas that I won't be able to inspect once the body goes back on.
Someone suggested expanding foam and I laughed about it at the time, but if you think about it there could be some mileage in the idea.
So do people think it's completely barking or could it actually help prevent corrosion?
I think the problem with anything like that is what happens over time with the various beatings up it will get with flexure, chemicals, heat, cold etc.
The automotive environment is one of the worst for causing things to fail (as we all know!).
Even with a great initial bond, the foam would almost certainly degrade over time and then cracks would occur letting moisture/water in. If that moisture is then trapped on top of the outriggers and not allowed to dry out, you could well exacerbate any rusting problems. Trying to fix it then would become a right pain having to remove the stuff first!
Don't you remember the old underseals which cracked over time and let the cars rust beneath a layer of black flaky stuff!
Cheers,
Mick
The automotive environment is one of the worst for causing things to fail (as we all know!).
Even with a great initial bond, the foam would almost certainly degrade over time and then cracks would occur letting moisture/water in. If that moisture is then trapped on top of the outriggers and not allowed to dry out, you could well exacerbate any rusting problems. Trying to fix it then would become a right pain having to remove the stuff first!
Don't you remember the old underseals which cracked over time and let the cars rust beneath a layer of black flaky stuff!
Cheers,
Mick
Foam comes in two types. Closed cell and open cell.
In open cell foam all the little bubbles are interconected like a sponge, in closed cell foam they are seperate.
Both form a surface skin when made that initially stops water.
When the skin is cut/damaged water can soak into the open cell type and trap water. As the water can pass from cell to cell it becomes fully waterloged.
With Closed cell, only the damaged cells absorb water and there is no transmission between cells.
Therefore make sure you get the closed cell foam. Marine suppliers sell this as bouyancy foam. It used to come in a two part pack. When you mix the two parts they react, expand and set. You also get heat from the reaction. Mind you don't burn anything.
As it expands to about 150 times the volume of chemicals you mixed, take care not to use too much as the pressure of the expanding foam can break things if you try to over contain it. Closed cell can be trimmed after it has set.
You will have loads left over. Please resist the temptation to do any of the following.
Fill a scamera by drilling a small hole and injecting it.
Creating a mould from plastic bags, then creating a giant phallus inside the bride and grooms car when they are trying to go away. It will end up so big that they can't get it out the car door.
Or any of the other stupid things people might have done in their youth.
In open cell foam all the little bubbles are interconected like a sponge, in closed cell foam they are seperate.
Both form a surface skin when made that initially stops water.
When the skin is cut/damaged water can soak into the open cell type and trap water. As the water can pass from cell to cell it becomes fully waterloged.
With Closed cell, only the damaged cells absorb water and there is no transmission between cells.
Therefore make sure you get the closed cell foam. Marine suppliers sell this as bouyancy foam. It used to come in a two part pack. When you mix the two parts they react, expand and set. You also get heat from the reaction. Mind you don't burn anything.
As it expands to about 150 times the volume of chemicals you mixed, take care not to use too much as the pressure of the expanding foam can break things if you try to over contain it. Closed cell can be trimmed after it has set.
You will have loads left over. Please resist the temptation to do any of the following.
Fill a scamera by drilling a small hole and injecting it.
Creating a mould from plastic bags, then creating a giant phallus inside the bride and grooms car when they are trying to go away. It will end up so big that they can't get it out the car door.
Or any of the other stupid things people might have done in their youth.
911motorsport said:
How about Weetabix? Left to set overnight it becomes resistant to water and most chemicals known to man. (May suggest this to the Space Shuttle guys too).
fin brillant stuff if you ask me......... all the chemicals in my dishwasher can't move it once its set.... infact a soak over night doesn't work either...... WEETABIX IS THE ANSWER. 
lazy said:
On reflection, after I thought it would be a good idea, it's pretty much a dead cert that it wont be - simply beacause I thought it would be initially.
HTH
That in itself is reason enough not to do it HTH
Although I have to take issue with the Weetabix suggestion, surly Cornflakes would be more effective as they could be wrapped around the chassis rails whereas Weetabix could merely be used in a wattle and daub configuration
..TheGriffalo said:
yellow wedge said:
We've had small plastic arches made which keeps out all the shite and crap once fitted you can't visibly tell that they are there but they do work very well..!!!!!..
Yw
Have you got any pics?Yw
I cable tied it to the tubes and then used silicon to stick it to the arch higher up.
Easily removeable and cheap!
WOULDN'T DO IT MATE! MOISTURE WILL STILL GET IN BETWEEN THE OUTRIGER AND THE FOAM, ESPECIALLY IF THERE IS SURFACE RUST, AS THEIR IS MOISTURE IN THEIR ALREADY, IF ANYTHING YOU WILL JUST SPEED UP THE PROCESS. I RECOMMEND SAND BLASTING THE AREA, A RUST KILER THAT I USE, PRIME AND PAINT AND WAX OIL!
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