Discussion
My drivers side bonnet hinge has rusted through and I am un able to un screw the last vestige of the bolt in the fixed nut on the chassis. Is this just a work shop welding job that is needed. Also having tried to fix it myself I have somehow shorted somewhere so the head lights are a bit dim . Any ideas as to a shared earth I might have shifted.
Not sure which bit you mean when that needs Welding, it is usually a 12mm bolt that simply goes through the tube (which is welded to a bolt fixed to the bonnet) and screws into a steel block which has 2 tapped holes, one for the said pivot bolt to screw into and the other which has a clamping bolt screwed into it to stop the block moving up and down the slot.
If you take the clamp bolt out, will the block not just drop out of the chassis section allowing you to drill the remnants of the old pivot bolt out?
If you take the clamp bolt out, will the block not just drop out of the chassis section allowing you to drill the remnants of the old pivot bolt out?
Edited by clarenceboddiger on Thursday 7th February 12:35
If you just need 12mm nuts & bolts B&Q do them - Bright zinc plated aswell.
If you need the metal sleeve welding onto a piece of 12mm threaded rod you'll have to go to an engineering supplies and get some that isn't zinc plated.
(If you weld zinc plated stuff it gives off fumes that kill you, not ideal!)
Although some one used rose joints that looked a really good idea, no welding required either.
Was it you Ken??
Chris
If you need the metal sleeve welding onto a piece of 12mm threaded rod you'll have to go to an engineering supplies and get some that isn't zinc plated.
(If you weld zinc plated stuff it gives off fumes that kill you, not ideal!)
Although some one used rose joints that looked a really good idea, no welding required either.
Was it you Ken??
Chris
The following describes the Rosejoint conversion , the chassis box section bit doesn’t have to be replaced, I only did that part as the box section on mine had split and I wanted to do something to make bonnet alignment easier, I may still have a couple of short lengths of the box sections left if someone wanted to do that as well.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Hi you say you have problem with the bonnet hinge, I had a problem last year.
The small piece of box section that is welded on the main frame that takes the bonnet catch, split.
So the bonnet dropped had big problems opening the bonnet, but even more problems trying to closing the bonnet.
What I did was to see an metal fabricator had a 50 x 50mm piece of box section cut to about 70mm long had a 12mm slit put in the front to take the bonnet bolt and cut out 60mm from the back, leaving 10mm at the top, this then gave me sleeve.
This enabled me just to slip this over the original damaged section and re bolt the bonnet catch to the original and the new sleeve making it much stronger, I also did this to the other side.
If you think this could help you please come back and I will take some photos for you.
Fred
The small piece of box section that is welded on the main frame that takes the bonnet catch, split.
So the bonnet dropped had big problems opening the bonnet, but even more problems trying to closing the bonnet.
What I did was to see an metal fabricator had a 50 x 50mm piece of box section cut to about 70mm long had a 12mm slit put in the front to take the bonnet bolt and cut out 60mm from the back, leaving 10mm at the top, this then gave me sleeve.
This enabled me just to slip this over the original damaged section and re bolt the bonnet catch to the original and the new sleeve making it much stronger, I also did this to the other side.
If you think this could help you please come back and I will take some photos for you.
Fred
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