rear wheel bearings
Discussion
ssc1 said:
how do i change the rear wheel bearings on a chimaera 94 model , as i do not have the bible to show me how . please dont say take it to a dealer/specialist as i have all the tools to do the job here at home and access to a very large press.....
As per Sierra Haynes manual/comic. Should be something like undo the FGB stiff nut in the middle, take the upright off the car, press the races out of the upright. Refit is the reverse procedure, obviously new stiff nut/correct torque etc.
right i have now done the job but i need the torque figure for the big nut that holds the hub on to the carrier, ie the big bugger, it all came off ok and i found one of the bearings very badly pitted , so can anybody help with this figure please...if somone could give me a quick answer as i can get the right torque wrench from work...thanks
>> Edited by ssc1 on Thursday 24th July 23:05
>> Edited by ssc1 on Thursday 24th July 23:05
well i got the wife to phone up a few dealers as there seems to be a bit of conflict about the hub nut torque, bible2 seems to say 185/214 lbs ft , thread on here says 280lbs ft ,and the dealers (three of them ) say as tight as possible then go for a spin then recheck it , now i have access to a great many torque wrenches and can get up to 1000 lbs ft on a nut if i wanted, so 280 lbs ft is not much if the torque wrench is about two feet long, so it does seem odd that a dealer would say as tight as possible as you could damage the bearings by overtightening them and they would wear prematurly.
as they are taper roller bearings i was used to doing them up untill the freeplay was taken out on other cars, but then this is a tvr , what are your experiences.
as they are taper roller bearings i was used to doing them up untill the freeplay was taken out on other cars, but then this is a tvr , what are your experiences.
There's a section on here of all torque settings. Handy site to.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Peter_Beech/TVR/chasgen.htm
Cheers, Rog.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Peter_Beech/TVR/chasgen.htm
Cheers, Rog.
My 93 Chimaera 430 came with right rear wheel bearing noise. I replaced both sides rear wheel bearings and it was quiet for a couple hundred miles. Then the right bearing started to make the same noise. They were both torqued to 280 ft-lbs as I found on line. The red synthetic grease I used had turned to black upon disassembly. anyone have any thoughts on what to do.
As Green V8s said at the beginning, Haynes manual for Sierra, few quid of Ebay, and correct torque figures are in there.
Tight as you can and re check is a load of codswallop.
And if you need a six foot scaffold pole you're obviously not eating your Weetabix
Tight as you can and re check is a load of codswallop.
And if you need a six foot scaffold pole you're obviously not eating your Weetabix
Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 4th January 19:49
USChimaera said:
My 93 Chimaera 430 came with right rear wheel bearing noise. I replaced both sides rear wheel bearings and it was quiet for a couple hundred miles. Then the right bearing started to make the same noise. They were both torqued to 280 ft-lbs as I found on line. The red synthetic grease I used had turned to black upon disassembly. anyone have any thoughts on what to do.
I would say that the wrong grease was used (this is common, with modern greases used in old design bearings), the grease never lubricated the bearing (so, did not melt) and the bearing ran dry creating a coating of rust that then turned the grease black. A@Thanks for the replies. The grease when I took it apart was melted in coating all the bearing parts and the bearings looked good. I will use the grease they came with and use the 185 ft/lb torque. Maybe even reduce the left side to 185 also. Need to get it to an invitational car show the 15th, there will be two TVRs there.
It works! The bearing that appeared to have no apparent damage was the problem. The grease turning to black was from over tightening and possibly rust. Both sides are now torqued to 185 ft-lbs and there is no bearing noise. Thank you everyone. Next to tackle the differential chatter under high power takeoff.
USChimaera said:
It works! The bearing that appeared to have no apparent damage was the problem. The grease turning to black was from over tightening and possibly rust. Both sides are now torqued to 185 ft-lbs and there is no bearing noise. Thank you everyone. Next to tackle the differential chatter under high power takeoff.
Hi and welcome to the fun that is Tvr. Diff clatter.
Start by checking CV joints and prop UJ are not fubbered.
Dif bushes.
You need the car on a ramp ideally.
Get a good pry bar and torch.
The diff is suspended using two brackets at the front and one at the rear effectively on top of the diff using 3 bolts running through rubber bushes to isolate each bracket/ mount from the Diff and chassis..
Start by using an old rag and use pry bar off chassis to try and move diff.
If diff shows any sign of movement look to see if it’s moving at any of these 3 points.
Often it’s the one at the rear on top of the dif.
If it’s the mount at the top rear then usually it’s a Dif out job to replace the rubber bush I’m sad to say!
Has this car come straight from the uk or been in the states some time.
Edited by Classic Chim on Saturday 7th January 23:48
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff